Carb Syncing - DIY Manometer vs "sound and feel"

[79josh81]

I never could pull the ball out through the seal. Some say they have but I never could. That's why I think it's best to do it while the seal is out.

Great thanks. Yeah I’ve searched a lot and having a hard time pulling the ball out through the seal seems like a common theme. I’m assuming my bushing is worn too which might be why I didn’t have any problems pulling the ball out with the seal and bushing still intact.

 

[5twins]

The long rod is a good upgrade. It wiggles side to side much less than the short outer rod in the 2 piece set-up so it puts lots less wear and tear on the seal and bushing. It seals much better for much longer. For the best chance at success in sealing that area up, change the seal, the bushing, and switch to the long one piece rod.

 

[79josh81]

Thanks 5twins...I’m on it.

 

[Skip]

Like 5twins said the one piece push rod is the way to go....I think they should be sold with the new seal and new bushing as a kit lol...one of the best and cheapest upgrades you can do to your XS

 

[fredintoon]

The manometer and "sound and feel" are both crazy. The sane choice is Harbor Freight vacuum meter.

Hi xjwmx,
yeah, except you'd need two of the inaccurate little bastards, calibrate one against t'other and then guess at where the middles of the needle blurs are.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Going from the two piece push-rod to the one piece gave me a more controlled clutch at the point where it engages. Also resulted in more consistent results regarding neutral selection.

 

[5twins]

Yeah, that too, lol. If you get the long rod from MikesXS, check the ends occasionally. Apparently mine got skipped over during the hardening process and was badly worn by about 10K miles, to the point of shedding metal chips. I only use originals now .....

 

[79josh81]

Is that from the ball bearing in the worm gear???

 

[aldo5468]

Great thanks. Yeah I’ve searched a lot and having a hard time pulling the ball out through the seal seems like a common theme. I’m assuming my bushing is worn too which might be why I didn’t have any problems pulling the ball out with the seal and bushing still intact.

Another "step" to consider taking b4 installing your new long rod is to polish it in the area that will engage the ID of your new seal.

 

[5twins]

No, that's the inner end of the rod and from the ball bearing in there. The outer end that fits into the worm showed some wear too, but not as much. It probably wouldn't hurt anything if the outer end shed some metal chips but the same can't be said for that inner end.

 

[79josh81]

Wow, well I already had ordered one from mikes that should be here in a few day.

As far as polishing my rod...lol...is the rod that rough that it’ll start to tear into the seal?

 

[5twins]

No, it shouldn't be, but it wouldn't hurt to polish the area that is going to work through the seal with a little Mother's or similar metal polish. One more little tip - once installed, coat the exposed portion of the rod with some grease. The rod is just plain, unplated steel and eventually the chain fling-off will cover it with oil and grease, but if you do some rain riding before that happens, the exposed portion of the rod could get rusty. Then you'd be pushing rust through your new seal every time you pulled the clutch lever in .....

 

[79josh81]

Well I’m all prepped and ready for the new seals, bushings, and rod to arrive. I’m not going to lie, there was a little pucker factor when that drill bit first hit that bushing. Lol

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

You'll want to avoid setting the bushing too deep in there. There's an oiling hole behind that bushing that could get blocked. Best to set it just below flush with the end of the mainshaft...

Post #11
http://www.xs650.com/threads/clutch-pushrod-bushing-interchange-thread.30549/#post-535244

 

[79josh81]

Nice. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

 

[79josh81]

Do you guys use a gasket sealer on the edge of the new seal before you put it in and what type if you do? Mikes FAQ thing says you should use gasket sealer but I don’t recall seeing anyone do that in any of the threads I’ve read through. The only thing I’ve read is greasing the outside before installing it.

 

[79josh81]

Well I got the new bushing, seal, and long rod in. Everything actually went well and I didn’t have any issues with damaging the seal. I did put a super thin smear of gasket sealer on the outside edge of the seal before installing it. As for the combo of bushing, seal, and new long rod....what a difference. I didn’t even realize how bad my old set up was as far as play in the rod and the bushing being worn until I got the new stuff in. The new bushing and long rod have almost zero play in them. (FYI...the oil on the seal in the picture is just the oil that I put on the rod that got pushed off when I slid it through the seal.)

 

[JAX71224]

I believe this thread has convinced me that I need to do this to my '78..........the seal,rod, and bushing!

 

[79josh81]

I'll tell you what, before I could move the outer rod of my two rod set-up far enough where there was a pretty good gap between my seal and rod. Now I can't even do that.

 

[5twins]

At first, I just replaced the seal and bushing. It cut down on the short outer rod's "wiggle" but it still moved quite a bit. I figured it wouldn't be long before things started leaking again. So, I threw the long rod in. It, like yours, barely moved at all. It's been in there now for quite a few years, probably 6 or 8, and is still good.