rtaylor522
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carburetor leaks from bowl.
- Thread starter rtaylor522
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Yes your info is in your signature.
Have you checked the petcocks over time? Unhook the hoses to the carbs, put on long hoses to reach into containers set on the floor. Let it set a few hours, is there fuel in the containers?
Have you checked the petcocks over time? Unhook the hoses to the carbs, put on long hoses to reach into containers set on the floor. Let it set a few hours, is there fuel in the containers?
+1 Leo.
If the bowls are drained wouldn't it empty everything from the petcock down?
Leaving the float/needle in the down/open position? Anything after that would have to come from the tank.
If the bowls are drained wouldn't it empty everything from the petcock down?
Leaving the float/needle in the down/open position? Anything after that would have to come from the tank.
rtaylor522
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Hey Leo,
went ahead and tried this today with a couple of catch cans and they were dry as a bone at the end of the day so the petcocks are working (both of them, they are manual).
What does that lead to next? Still needle valve/o-rings that go around the needle valve housing?....
The way I imagine this is working is I turn on valves and ride, shut down bike and turn off valves or even turn them off and let it run a bit.
Empty bowls.
if the needle valves were bad there is still fuel in the lines from the petcock down to the carbs so if it's leaking slowly around the o-ring or needle seat it can still fill and overflow the bowl into the tube....also I have seen a full fledged leak from needle valves not sealing when I originally re-built the carb i put the spring side of the valve up (whoops) and turned on the gas and it was gushing out of those overflow tubes....this is a very slow leak but still fast enough you can watch it drip 1-2 small drops per second, both sides.
went ahead and tried this today with a couple of catch cans and they were dry as a bone at the end of the day so the petcocks are working (both of them, they are manual).
What does that lead to next? Still needle valve/o-rings that go around the needle valve housing?....
The way I imagine this is working is I turn on valves and ride, shut down bike and turn off valves or even turn them off and let it run a bit.
Empty bowls.
if the needle valves were bad there is still fuel in the lines from the petcock down to the carbs so if it's leaking slowly around the o-ring or needle seat it can still fill and overflow the bowl into the tube....also I have seen a full fledged leak from needle valves not sealing when I originally re-built the carb i put the spring side of the valve up (whoops) and turned on the gas and it was gushing out of those overflow tubes....this is a very slow leak but still fast enough you can watch it drip 1-2 small drops per second, both sides.
rtaylor522
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Hey 5twins, thanks for the quick reply...It looks like I should just replace the whole assembly on both sides, but the kits on mikes don't look like they come with the seal washer and I can't find it on his site...anyone have any leads on that?
The kit does include the seal washer but it's hard to see in the pic. It's on the needle seat. Take care using the jetting parts included. Many times the sizes included in the kits do not match what you should have. In particular, I don't recommend using that generic Y-22 needle. There's no telling what sort of taper it has compared to your original 4JN19.
rtaylor522
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Hey 5twins,
I was'nt goint to do the whole kit since I've already replaced almost everything in the carbs anyways (jets and all), the only thing I skipped was the floats/needle valve and seat.
Mikes shows a kit that is just the needle valve and the housing for 10 bucks a piece. Any idea if those come with it because I def. can't see it in there. If not any idea where to get it? I'm going to e-mail them as well but who knows how long a reply will take.
Thanks.
I was'nt goint to do the whole kit since I've already replaced almost everything in the carbs anyways (jets and all), the only thing I skipped was the floats/needle valve and seat.
Mikes shows a kit that is just the needle valve and the housing for 10 bucks a piece. Any idea if those come with it because I def. can't see it in there. If not any idea where to get it? I'm going to e-mail them as well but who knows how long a reply will take.
Thanks.
I'm pretty sure you will get one with the kit. Most come with it. It's not a part that really wears out though. Many originals are that red bakelite material, replacements are many times aluminum. I re-use them all the time. The dealer probably still has it as it's a part pretty common in carbs all the way to this day. Your problem is most likely the needle and seat, not the sealing washer.
Weekender, yes, if the float valves leak it should drain everything from the petcocks down.
I suggested the "over time' test just to be sure the petcocks do infact shut off.
I agree with 5twin's on the valve and seat. I have reused the seal washer several times with out trouble. If your worried about it you might try a very, very thin coat of Three Bond. So thin you can hardly tell it's there. To much and it may not come apart easy the next time you want them out. I would only do that as a last resort.
Make sure the sealing surface in the carb body and on the valve seat are clean.
Leo
I suggested the "over time' test just to be sure the petcocks do infact shut off.
I agree with 5twin's on the valve and seat. I have reused the seal washer several times with out trouble. If your worried about it you might try a very, very thin coat of Three Bond. So thin you can hardly tell it's there. To much and it may not come apart easy the next time you want them out. I would only do that as a last resort.
Make sure the sealing surface in the carb body and on the valve seat are clean.
Leo
Another thing you might try is a tip I got from XSJohn. Take the cotton off a q-tip wind some 0000 steel wool on the q-tip. Use this steel q-tip to gently polish the valve seat. It will clean off any varnish and burrs that may be there. XSJohn said that even new valve seats can have a burr that can keep the valve from seating tight.
Leo
Leo
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rtaylor522
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Just a quick update,
The kit that mikes sells for BS38's that has the needle valve and seat also includes a washer and a seal according to the e-mail I got back from them.
Just in case someone else was looking
Enjoy the riding weather!
The kit that mikes sells for BS38's that has the needle valve and seat also includes a washer and a seal according to the e-mail I got back from them.
Just in case someone else was looking
Enjoy the riding weather!
XSleo & rtaylor522 ,
my bad when you said you emptied/drained the bowls I thought you had pulled the drain plug and emptied them. I think now you are refferring to just running till it quits in which case you still have quite abit of fuel in the bowls?
my bad when you said you emptied/drained the bowls I thought you had pulled the drain plug and emptied them. I think now you are refferring to just running till it quits in which case you still have quite abit of fuel in the bowls?
