CHAIN LUBE....who uses what?

About ANYTHING that gets applied regularly works fine LOL.
I have always just used motor oil in a oil can... I oil and clean my chain VERY regularly. My 1980 still has it's original front sprocket, and up until a few weeks ago had its original rear sprocket which was only changed in favor of a 32T and is still in excellent shape.
 
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If you think about it chainsaw bar and chain oil is designed for exactly this application. Quality B&C oil has strong anti-fling properties ie it's stickier 'n fly paper.
$10.00 a gallon for brand name compared to......
 
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With an o-ring chain, it's lube is self-contained, so basically you're just protecting the outside from rusting. I've been brushing moly grease on mine.
I've even used chassis lube rather than run dry.

If you think about it chainsaw bar and chain oil is designed for exactly this application. Quality B&C oil has strong anti-fling properties ie it's stickier 'n fly paper.
$10.00 a gallon for band name compared to......
You know, I should run over to Tractor Supply and buy a gallon and an applicator. It's probably as effective as anything else and much cheaper.

Using aerosol chain lube, half of it ends up anywhere but the chain.
 
I put bike on centre stand, sit on a cushion next to back wheel, brush a little H-D SAE90 gearbox oil with a ½" paintbrush on to inner run of the chain, turn the wheel a bit and repeat until whole chain in done. It's an O-ring chain. Sometimes, I put some paraffin - kerosene - on a rag, grasp the chain, turn the wheel and wash the chain clean. Then do the lube procedure.

Looking after the chain is good for the soul. And bonding with the bike. I hate to see a bike with a dry, rusty chain.
 
I’ve already noted that I use Maxima Chain Wax, I like it because it doesn’t fling off. But once as an experiment, I had the chain off my bike, I cleaned it with kerosene, then submerged the entire chain in oil and let it soak.
Note: this was not an o ring chain. When I took it out, I dried it thoroughly and left it on top of newspaper in the hot sun to finish draining. After I reinstalled it and went for a ride, OH MY GOD what a mess! It flung oil everywhere for a week! :laugh2:
And filed under “products I will never use again” is this……
Champion Chain Lube, the stuff never set up after spraying it on. And even though I wiped off the excess with a rag after applying it , the very first time I rode the bike, it just flew off like liquid and went everywhere.
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Right in the trash!
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Sometimes, I put some paraffin - kerosene - on a rag,
I use WD40 to clean my chain if I don't have kerosene. Both work fine. Kerosene is much cheaper.
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I spray the rear wheel with MOTO-PREP silicone spray after the bike gets a bath. Whatever flings off the chain wipes right off.
 
I'll chime in that one way I lube is clean with mineral spirits then smear on heavy moly grease and WS2 especially on madness that has an aluminum rear sprocket. I noted a decent amount of moly grease still on WJL after 2100 miles including 3 hours of rain riding.
 
Motor oil is not good at preventing surface rust. The reason being the additive package takes up water from the air which leads to surface rust. Chainsaw bar oil is better because it lacks all the additives and I see it recommended on machine forums for preventing surface rust on tools/lathes/milling machines etc.

But, I always used motor oil and my sprockets lasted very well, of course I was not using O ring type chains.
 
Geezzzz you'd have thought i asked what engine oil to use.............:laugh:

used to use the dipstick to oil my chain. Bike on center stand and dab the drips from the dipstick onto the chain slowly turning the wheel...........repeat till chain is done. would keep a cloth in the bikes factory lock case. Wipe down the rear wheel after every ride or when i oiled the chain. wheels always looked clean. Never used an O'ring chain.

I have used a combination of WD40 mixed with lanolin oil on the DL650 that has an O'ring chain on it. Lanolin oil is fairly thin already but it has good sticking qualities adding WD40 to it makes it go a bit further...........I buy both WD40 and lanolin oil in 4 and 5 liter containers. $40.00 for 4 liters of WD40 and $80 for the Lanolin oil. Never wash the bike with water. always wipe down with the mixture of lanolin oil in a spray bottle sprayed onto a cloth.

On the O'ring chain it isn't the sides that needs oiling, as pointed out, it is to get lube into the rollers and reduce wear, where the chain and sprocket rub each other.

Have tried spray-can chain lubes in the past and they look like they are doing stuff when the bubble, crack and pop fizz, but found the cleaning off the wheel to much of a pain and went back to the dipstick process.

Been reading peoples opinions, (yea like arseholes, i know), and a couple have said to have had good results using the Wurth HHS2000 and chain longevity last half as long again as usual.........Had figures in a log book, FWIW.

Using the HHS 2000 i found it to be very thin and only needs a small amount. Just a quick light touch on the can produces a little spray with just enough large droplets to hit the area wanted, (without spraying every where and wasting most of it), to lube the rollers and sprocket. The little i used makes it cost effective................ Do this from the rear on the chain and sprocket. stupid bike doesn't have a center stand, so spray a little move the bike forward 2 ft...........spray a little more, move the bike 2 ft..........note to myself.....buy a center-stand.......spray a little more, move the bike 2 ft............repeat till all the chain is done............

So i figure for for $32, ($16 per can, and cant find chain lube for less than $22 per can), it's nothing to try it out, and it if it does make the chain last 1/2 as long again then its money well spent..........if it doesn't, its back to WD40/lanolin mix.
 
Scottoiler and chainsaw bar oil, for years.

Hi Grimly,
me too. The important thing is the chain oiler.
A steady drip of any kinda lubricant gives far better chain life than running it soaked in the best lubricant until it flings off then running it dry.
Note to Skull:-
While Australians can buy lanolin by the gallon with no embarrassment, it's only available in North America from drug stores
where it's sold to nursing mothers to ease their chapped nipples.
 
Update on the HHS 2000. It has not flung off, chain is sticky to touch and black. Just a couple of small rides one straight after the oiling. Be interesting to see what it looks like after going on dirt or a few 100klm's on the road. Will take some pics in the daylight later today then do a comparison when i fill up next
 
I don't have an 'O' ring chain. I've been using PJ-1 (now black label) for nearly 50 years. I don't lube the chain on my bike. I remove it, wash it thoroughly in old gas, hang it up lengthwise to dry and then douche it with PJ at the top of the chain until the PJ runs down the chain and drips off the bottom. In the same process, I clean all the accumulated crap off the sprockets but don't put the chain back on until the PJ has set up - maybe tomorrow.
 
I don't have an 'O' ring chain. I've been using PJ-1 (now black label) for nearly 50 years. I don't lube the chain on my bike. I remove it, wash it thoroughly in old gas, hang it up lengthwise to dry and then douche it with PJ at the top of the chain until the PJ runs down the chain and drips off the bottom. In the same process, I clean all the accumulated crap off the sprockets but don't put the chain back on until the PJ has set up - maybe tomorrow.

Hi hovel,
remember LINKLYFE? Black wax in a big flat round can.
Put the can on mother's cookstove to melt the wax, pull out the bike's other chain, swap it for the "in use" chain, repeat at 1,000 mile intervals?
 
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