Cheaper More Common Alternative to Yamabond

[PHeller]

I've got two leaky sump plates that I'm tired of messing with. I just want them sealed.

Local Yamaha dealer would need to order Yamabond, taking up to a week. I'd like to seal my spare engine this weekend.

Any more common solutions?

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[5twins]

Try a Honda dealer. They have the same stuff but call it "Hondabond". But here's the thing - the formulation is being changed because of E.P.A. regulations or something. You may not be able to get the original gray colored semi-drying formula, the good stuff, anymore. It's being changed to some sort of clear silicone formula (which I won't use). Read the package to be sure. If that's the case then I recommend you go with Holymar, available at many auto parts stores. This stuff works very well too and is made under license from Rolls Royce. Impress your riding buddies when you tell them you use Rolls Royce gasket sealer on your ride, lol.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I've got two leaky sump plates that I'm tired of messing with. I just want them sealed.

Local Yamaha dealer would need to order Yamabond, taking up to a week. I'd like to seal my spare engine this weekend.

Any more common solutions?

Posted via Mobile

Are the sealing surfaces damaged? My sump plate seals with just a gasket.

 

[retiredgentleman]

5twins...........that's Hylomar, and yes its a super sealant.

 

[blackbetty]

I use edelbrock gasgacinch.

 

[PHeller]

I have two sump plates that are leaking. I've got them torqued correctly. I haven't snapped any of them, and I torque them in a rotating figure 8 pattern.

The issue is more in cleaning the engine surface effectively while on the bike. I've got a dirty motorcycle, and live in a sandy environment. Aside from power washing the bottom of my bike every time I do an oil change, its very difficult to keep the sump surface clean. That's the problem on my rider.

On my spare engine, I tore the gasket, so it leaks like a sieve.

I'm tired of spending so much time on an oil change, only to have them leak.

Unless I'm over-torquing, which I doubt is the case, I doubt that both sump plates are warped.

You may suggest "get a inch/lb torque wrench to make sure" but again...this is an oil change...not engine assembly, I shouldn't have to torque these things exactly every damn time I change the oil.

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[Tia813]

Its not cheap but I use Right Stuff. Sealed up my sump along with my big block chevy and the Jeep's diff cases. You can get it at any parts store

 

[plane_ben]

I use Loctite 518 flange sealer. Love the stuff. Used it on my XS top end rebuild, the oil sump plate, and on my aircooled VW engines. You can get it at most auto parts stores or on line.

 

[retiredgentleman]

PHeller;

Here's the facts. If the engine sump surface, and the sump plate, is clean and no deep scratches, a new gasket torqued at 7 ft-lbs, will be leak free. If you use a semi-drying gasket sealant you are just creating a sticky mess that will be there at every oil change. Its your choice but a gasket is the simple way to go.

No, you don't need an inch-lb torque wrench. I just use one measured in ft-lbs and it works fine. I'm assuming you are using a (ft-lb) torque wrench, but you didn't say that specifically.

The sump plate is part of the engine and yes it is part of engine assembly. You make it sound like installing the sump plate 6 bolts and using a torque wrench is a major amount of work. I suspect I could install the plate and bolts all torqued in 3 or 4 minutes. Part of the hobby of old bikes is learning to use the correct tools and parts to get the job done with no leaks and no bolts stripped.

 

[sparklow]

I too used Yamabond on a sump plate - never again! I had to use a good size drift to remove the sump plate for an oil change, it was really stuck on. Yamabond is for joining engine cases, its not right for something that you are going to be removing on a regular basis like a sump plate. It will seal up the sump - too well.

 

[angus67]

you dont have to take the plate off every time you do an oil change. modify your sump filter like inxs does, and wash it out when you get around to it.

 

[PHeller]

I have heard that part of the reason for applying a sealant on one side of the gasket is that it makes both removing the sump plate easier and also removing the old liquid gasket.

I don't plan to run the liquid gasket by itself, but in combination with a gasket.

I've also got new upgraded sump filters, so no need to remove the sump plate that often. I have removed mine 3 times in 3 months because I could never get it to seal right. Hence my interest in a little liquid gasket help.

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[CDNTX650]

i made a thin cork one for mine. But i check it once a year. For sealing two surfaces i use permatex motoseal.

 

[PHeller]

I picked up some Right Stuff. I'll try that on my spare engine first.

I was told that its better to use too much that too little, and let it harden a bit. That way when you remove it the stuff comes off in one piece rather than lots of little pieces.

I may try anti-seize on the rider.

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[Tia813]

^^I was a skeptic on it.... Old small and big block chevys love to leak at the mating surface on the "valley" of the intake manifold. Its been 2 years and not a sign of oil. No leak from XS sump yet either.

 

[alfredo]

Yamabond at my local dealer is only $6.50. Doesn't seem that expensive. . . maybe I am missing something.

 

[Maddog Marty]

I've heard on the FE (Ford) engine forum that The Right Stuff is great...BUT it is a BEAR to get the parts separated later, it is STRONG stuff. Good luck!

 

[PHeller]

Yamabond at my local dealer is only $6.50. Doesn't seem that expensive. . . maybe I am missing something.

At mine its 10.50 a tube and a weeks wait.

 

[PHeller]

I may take the gasket sealant I got back to Advanced Auto and instead buy some cork gasket paper and a 5-80lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

As much as I want a good seal, I don't want a mess to clean up later.

 

[Highside]

If you're using a brand new gasket (or a used one in good condition), you should only need some Permatex gorilla snot.