Chrome cleaning - Windex and aluminum foil

DoubleE

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In a prior post MaxPete had asked the purpose of using aluminum foil in cleaning chrome pieces with Windex and foil. This is a method I had seen used on the forum by gggGary and others and began using it myself. The reason foil is used lays more in the nature of iron (and therefor rust) than in chrome. It is mostly the rust pitting on the chrome that the aluminum attacks.

Why does it work? Short answer; oxygen loves aluminum more than iron.

I want to geek out and expand on this a little bit (or as much as dusty old memories from chemistry class will allow).

There is a symmetry to chemical reactions; a give and take. These exchanges are called “Oxidation-Reduction” reactions (Redox). It is a kind of balance sheet. If one substance is oxidized, there must be something else reduced. A quid pro quo. Redox reactions don’t always have oxygen in the reaction; but they often do, and for our purposes we will just think in those terms. We can see this as a handoff of oxygen between elements, in our case, iron and aluminum. The element or chemical that grabs the oxygen is oxidized. The substance it was stolen from is reduced.

Now to the chrome on your motorcycle. Some of the chrome is pitted with rust. Oxygen, with the help of moisture, has gotten to the iron/steel beneath the chrome and has oxidized it, producing iron oxide (rust).

4Fe (iron)+ 3O2 (oxygen) = 2Fe2O3 (iron oxide i.e. rust)

In cleaning the chrome, we want to reduce the rust by stripping off the oxygen from the iron. To do this we need some moisture. Plain water will work, or a weak base (ammonia/Windex) or a weak acid (vinegar). We also need something that wants oxygen more than the iron. Aluminum is a great candidate. It loves to be oxidize. So, in the presence of water (or ammonia or vinegar etc.), iron oxide is reduced to iron while aluminum is oxidized to aluminum oxide.

Fe2O3 (rust) + 2Al (aluminum) = Al2O3 (aluminum oxide) + 2Fe (iron)

Windex or ammonia is used to speed up the reaction and, I believe, will leave any residue slightly basic and less susceptible to further oxidation.

That is the nuts and bolts of using the aluminum foil.

Now that the rust has been removed, there are still pin point spots where the chrome plating no longer protects the iron/steel underneath. If left to air and moisture, these areas would continue to rust. The next step is to use some polish or wax to seal the iron and chrome from additional pitting. I am not going for museum quality work and feel Blue Magic has enough polish/wax in it to protect the chrome and give a good look. But there are plenty of polishes and protective coatings that will seal the iron from the atmosphere, prevent further pitting and have your chrome glistening.

Headlight before.JPG Headlight after.JPG
headlight before using the Windex and foil, and the same area afterwards (with still more work to do)

Fender rear half polished.JPG Fender front polished.JPG
Rear fender half cleaned, half not touched. Front fender cleaned with Windex/foil finished off with Blue Magic.
 
Bloody he!! DoubleE - nice post!

As soon as I get this danged consulting report done, I am going to swipe some foil from the kitchen and get out the Disaster Central Workshop and get at it!

Thanks for sharing!

Pete
 
Thanks Pete- it was your prodding that shook out the decades-old cobwebs. The aluminum trick is a bit more involved than the reaction above. If you buy sandpaper it is often no longer "sand" (silica/quartz). Much "sandpaper" is actually Aluminum Oxide on a paper backing. I believe that the reaction that is oxidizing the aluminum is also creating a DIY sandpaper. So as the rust is reduced, the newly created aluminum oxide is also polishing the chrome as well. I wouldn't doubt that some of the aluminum/oxide is also filling in the small divots left by the rust- almost like a chrome substitute; but this is just conjecture on my part. As James said "always worked great for me..."
ee
 
Over this damp wet Welsh Winter I have been wiping my chrome and polished Aluminium with WD40 on a soft cloth. It leaves behind a very light oil coating. I do this every 1 - 2 weeks and it only takes about 10 minutes for the whole bike. I had noticed that the rust starts to grow again in the damp, especially on the rear shock springs but the WD40 has stopped this. The remaining oil residue can be removed very easily with a clean cloth if necessary - advantage of very light oils.
 
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