clutch adjustment problem

Tia813

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Dunno am I missing a step? I loosen the adjuster at the lever all the way, then the lock nut at the case. I turn the adjustment screw till it makes contact with the rod then back out 1/4 turn. Snug the lock nut then adjust the clutch lever till theres 1/4" play. I've done this step countless times in the passed week. Everytime I go into first the bike slowly moves forward and thats with the clutch lever pulled. I'm also having a problem finding N.... Other than that the bike shifts normal and havent felt any slipping. Thanks
 
This is what 5twins suggested to me and I have been doing it since. It works great. I have no problems and always find neutral. BUT, this is only a suggestion.
"Have you read the Minton Mods? He recommends doing the majority of your clutch adjustment with the worm gear and I agree. I set the freeplay at the hand lever to about 3/8" or 1/2" using the worm gear screw, then final adjust at the lever. I pay no mind to that factory recommendation of 1/4 turn back on the worm gear screw after rod contact." -5twins
 
and by loosen the adjuster all the way at the lever, it means the screw it INTO the lever all the way. you loosen the cable this way. took me a couple minutes to figure that one out.
 
going to give it a try

littlebill--- So how far am I driving the adjustment screw into the rod to achieve 3/8-1/2" free play?

cros36--- got me for a bit too
 
Tia- What I do is, loosen the clutch lever totally as normal, then loosen the worm lock nut as normal. Turn the worn gear back and forth as you would and feel for the drag.
Now, I turn the worm gear screw into the drag and watch the clutch lever start moving out, away from the handlebar until there is 1/2 in of free play. Then finalize the adjustment on the perch itself.
 
Thanks! My wife gave birth to our 3rd kid on Monday so I've been stuck in the hospital. Once we get out I'll give it a try
 
The adjustment at the case isn't critical at all, it seems to me, as long as the adjuster isn't trying to activate the clutch when the adjuster is at rest.

I screw the lever adjuster in all the way. Then I back out the case adjuster 1/4 turn from good contact. Then I adjust the lever so that the engine engages at the distance I like it to from the grip. Then I turn the lever adjuster so that the split faces down, which makes it more waterproof, in my imagination. Finally I verify that there's some slack in the cable at rest, but there always has been so far.
 
Since my wife is feeding the new born I ran to the garage to tinker. Tried all methods and it worked. I could still feel it pull forward just a little but at least now I can put it in neutral while its running. Just a little tweeking and It'll be good. I wonder if the oil had anything to do with it? Dunno what the PO had in it but I just replaced it with Rotella T..
 
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