Clutch Adjustment

[mr5ev3n]

Hey 6fifters,
How exactly does the clutch adjuster on the left side case work?
I read through the manual and it explained how to adjust it, but I'm kind of still in the dark as to what it will do.
I started researching various clutch adjustments because my clutch lever is hard as hell to pull in. I lubed up the cable to the best of my ability and there is no binding otherwise.

Any suggestions, ideas?
Its about my final step in production...

 

[xjwmx]

It shouldn't be real hard to pull in. Mine's very easy. It's ususally lubing the cable. You might be frayed inside the cable. The thing under the left cover, you can take it apart and grease it good if you want, and look for broken parts. Is the clutch working, just hard to pull? There's no actual adjustment that makes it easier to pull.

One thing to check is with the cable loose on both ends, the inner cable ought to move effortlessly, should just be able to fall one direction or the other on its own weight, ideally.

 

[5twins]

You really have to oil the cable well and by that I mean dribble oil in one end until it drips out the other.

 

[sreimer]

That's a subjuct that has pretty much been beaten to death and there are many many treads on it use the search and you'll find some really good advice

 

[Ksboy19]

Im having the same problem, Ive greased it all up and everything and the thing is so damn hard to pull. The clutch wont even engage, so i tighten it and i snapped the cable. I have to clue

 

[Dennis]

simple
loosen completely the adjuster at the clutch handle
take side cover off and grease the mechanism inside
while cover is off unhook the cable and make sure it moves freely
reinstall side cover
pop off the cover for the clutch adjusting rod
loosen untill no drag felt
tighten untill you feel it just touch then back it off a 1/4 turn
tighten jam nut, adjust the play in the cable at the clutch lever and you should be good to go

 

[Ksboy19]

Ive tried that, It almost feels like the push rod doesnt move when the clutch is enganged

 

[Boilermaker]

Do you typically have to oil a brand new clutch cable? How about routing the cable? Is there a spring that can be replaced to help pull the clutch handle back out.

 

[Jawknee21]

I have a new cable (150? miles) and i oiled mine today and greased everything and its a completely new bike. sooooooo much easier. thanks guys. tons of grease on the ball in the worm gear and grease on the push rod. i used to have to try to squeeze the lever on the end to get the most leverage out of it. now its like 2 fingers. haha. Just the slowest bends in the cable as possible. straightening the bend in the elbow by the case like 5twins says. i can even find neutral with the bike running now...

 

[marp68]

Had the same problem.

Beside lubing it, I also straightened out the short metal tube located below just before the cable enter LH cover. This made it even more smoother handling.

I also rerouted the cable between the carbs. Don't know how much differencies it made though..

Good luck

 

[bernie]

i have play in my clutch handle and i have the adjuster on the handle screwed all the way out. is there other adjustment i can make???

 

[XSLeo]

Bernie, read the post #6 that Dennis wrote. Or read your repair manual. You do have one don't you?
Also lube the cable well. Best to remove the csable from the bike. Hang it up so it's straight up and down. Make a funnel out of kitchen foil around the top. With the inner core pulled up fill the funnel with oil, I use 3n1 oil, thin motor oil is good too.
Work the inner core up and down, this helps get the oil through the cable. Keep the funnel full untill you get clean oil coming out the bottom. At first the oil that comes out may be dirty, keep at it until clean oil comes out. It may take all day the first time. but worth the effort.
Do this once or twice a season.
On the worm mechanism in the left side cover you can remove the inner part of the worm after you unhook the cable and return spring. Pay attention to how it is installed, you want it back in where it was. Clean it and the outer piece vey well. Inspect for cracks or breaks. If cracked or broke replace.
Any good grease can be used here. I use a general purpose grease from my grease gun.
Apply a generous amount to both pieces. Reinstall. When the cables ready rehook that up. Put it back on the bike, routing the cable as straight as you can.
If lubed well and properly adjusted it is easy to pull.
Leo

 

[XSLeo]

I just realized no one answered the op's question.
mr5, The adjuster is a screw inside the worm. It controls the freeplay between the worm and the clutch push rod. If too tight the clutch will slip. If too loose the clutch won't open far enough to let the clutch disengage. You want it just tight enough so it will open fully yet still close completely.
In most adjustment procedures they call for a 1/4 turn back from just feeling resistance, I like 1/8 turn better. It takes a precise feel to get this fine an adjustment. A feel that takes practice to get right.
Leo

 

[leggers]

Ive tried that, It almost feels like the push rod doesnt move when the clutch is enganged

Did we find a solution to this? whats the problem if the push rod cannot move in the engine?

EDIT: Update I should have mentioned that I was in the process of a rebuild. After I cracked the right side case I discovered that I had tightened the spring screws all the way into the clutch. No where in my Clymer manual does it say 5-7lbs of torque for these screws... After loosening them the clutch rod moved freely and disengaged the clutch. Just thought I'd share.

 

[XSLeo]

The bolts that hold the springs in place have a shoulder that goes up against the boss it threads into. Once you get the bolts that far you torque them so they won't back out.
If they back out they will hit the case and cut grooves in it.
If your clutch won't work when the bolts are properly torqued then you most likely have the pressure plate misaligned.
Leo

 

[DeftQuiver]

Did we find a solution to this? whats the problem if the push rod cannot move in the engine?

EDIT: Update I should have mentioned that I was in the process of a rebuild. After I cracked the right side case I discovered that I had tightened the spring screws all the way into the clutch. No where in my Clymer manual does it say 5-7lbs of torque for these screws... After loosening them the clutch rod moved freely and disengaged the clutch. Just thought I'd share.

Yeah, I was pulling my hair out for a while trying to find torque specs... Ended up finding most of them here

http://www.biker.net/650_service/650service main.html

 

[benway0007]

whats the best cable to buy? i have an 82 harritage and the clutch cable is spent..

 

[retiredgentleman]

whats the best cable to buy? i have an 82 harritage and the clutch cable is spent..

I use an "E-Z Pull clutch cable", sold by www.650central.com. It has a thicker cable and works very well. Much more reliable than the ones sold by Mikesxs, which tend to break.

 

[deadchef]

I use an "E-Z Pull clutch cable", sold by www.650central.com. It has a thicker cable and works very well. Much more reliable than the ones sold by Mikesxs, which tend to break.

i use the ez pull also. works great and doesn't have that weird little bend piece at the end of it that the oem cable has.

 

[XSLeo]

The cable from 650central is a good one, I just bought two. The original from Yamaha is a good one. Motion Pro is a good one. Any others are less.
As far as the elbow thing at the end, you can straighten it out some using padded jaws in a bench vise, just be carefull not to picnh the small end that goes in the case.
No matter where you get one keeping it well lubed with oil, I use 3n1 oil, others like motor oil. I ride into the colder weather and like the lighter oil. I just lube a bit more often. To lube with oil follow the steps in the repair manual. The ones you build a funnel to use. Not the clamp on the cable type and use a spray lube. Won't last long.
Leo