clutch assembly

[gray am I]

Hi, I was having trouble measuring the tension with a digital spring scale until I realised that there was a burr scraping against the side of the clip that was cutting into it, this came from the bottom of no 4 gear that had been grinding away from not engaging properly. After I used a fine slipstone to polish the burrs off, I got a reading of 4lbs and after closing the spring up I an getting about 7lbs.
I am assembling my clutch after I (hopefully) fixed my starter spring but my Clymer manual does not give torque specifications on the clutch lock nut, or spring screw can anyone please give me the settings, searching doesn't help as I'm getting conflicting values.
As I don't have any spare clutch plates here is my version of a clutch holding tool.

 

[Airwolfie]

Whoa! You seriously need to get rid of those grooves in the clutch basket!

Nice tool you made BTW!

 

[gray am I]

also while my bike is a 78 special the motor that is in it at the moment is an earlier 75/76 ?, engine (447-209prefix) the friction plates measure 3mm, and all look the same, so I don't know what Clymer means by 4 fiber backed and 2 aluminium backed plates?

 

[angus67]

that basket is toast. if you grind those grooves out, the clutch will bang and chatter.

 

[5twins]

The Clymer is referring to an earlier clutch version than you have. It had two different kinds of plates. They were also 3.5mm thick. Your clutch uses only fiber plates and they should be 3mm thick, as yours are. The threaded portion on the clutch spring screws is an M6 diameter so that is the torque value you would use. I think the spec for an M6 screw is something like 5 to 8 ft/lbs. I use 80 in/lbs on them (about 6.7 ft/lbs).

Yes the slots in your basket are badly notched. You may not be able to save that one.

 

[angus67]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-YAMAHA...ash=item43df05b7b5:g:osoAAOSw9N1Vgy8Q&vxp=mtr
heres a nice one. The shipping would kill you though, but at least nice ones are still out there....good luck.

 

[gray am I]

ok thanks, 6.7 ft/lbs for the clutch spring screws, does anyone have the clutch lock nut torque setting (29mm nut)
I want to put this back together until I either get another clutch basket or get the original motor rebuilt any suggestions as to the grooves, a light file to take out some of the grooves or leave them, don't think I should file or grind all the grooves out, as that will make for too much clearance on the friction plates and start to mushroom the tabs on the friction plates

 

[weekendrider]

I use 58 ft. lbs.

 

[gray am I]

Are all clutch baskets interchangeable on the xs 650 motor, or is there a preference in a particular year for strength /design ?

 

[XSLeo]

A lot of us prefer the later 6 plate clutch. It ha a spring loaded inner plate that helps smooth out the engagement.
I think all the earlier basket interchange, at least from about 74 up, some of the earlier used a different style pressure plate.
The mid years used a 7 plate clutch with no spring loaded inner plate. It engages a bit harshly on take off but after that not really noticeable.
Leo

 

[gray am I]

Mine has 6 steel plates and 7clutch plates, no spring, number on the basket is 256-16311, when I start looking for one I want to be sure I get the right one

 

[member3480]

I have a good complete setup that you can have for $50.00

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

That 256-16311 number can get you in trouble:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43175&highlight=256-16311

I'd jump on DaddyG's offer. That's the deal of the century and he knows it'll work on your bike...

 

[member3480]

I just looked it up from me to you USPS PIRORITY MAIL $77.00
That's a total of $117.00 and I see baskets going for that on FLEBAY
This is a complete clutch with all the parts out of a 1980
ANYONE ?????? in USA $50.00 SHIPPED

 

[gray am I]

thanks daddyg, yes it's a good price, but $117 usd equals $160 aud so I am trying to find one locally first, postage and exchange rate really make things hard buying from the states.
I was not so much looking for a basket here as looking for information on whether I could fit any basket to existing parts or whether I should purchase a complete clutch

 

[angus67]

Either way u need a basket, right?

 

[5twins]

To be on the safe side for parts swapping, I would stick with a '74 or newer clutch outer basket or complete unit. All those parts should mix and match no problem. I can't say the same for the early '70-'73 clutch assemblies. Some parts may swap, others definitely won't. Steel and fiber plates, and the pressure plate differed, probably the inner basket too. The outer basket may work but if you're going to buy a complete unit, you might as well get one that you can use any and/or all the parts from.

 

[peanut]

ok thanks, 6.7 ft/lbs for the clutch spring screws, does anyone have the clutch lock nut torque setting (29mm nut)
I want to put this back together until I either get another clutch basket or get the original motor rebuilt any suggestions as to the grooves, a light file to take out some of the grooves or leave them, don't think I should file or grind all the grooves out, as that will make for too much clearance on the friction plates and start to mushroom the tabs on the friction plates

I used a second cut square file to carefully dress the fingers on my basket and they were probably as bad as yours. My clutch action is so light and smooth I can use a single finger to pull the clutch.

You need to put the file over both sides of the basket so that whilst you are filing one finger the file is resting lightly on the finger directly opposite on the other sidfe of the basket. That way your fingers should remain straight and true. You need to dress out all traces of the grooves to be worthwhile. Final dresssing should be with a smooth file which is drawn along the length of the fingers not across them.

I also filed the edges of all the tangs on my clutch plates to take the sharp edges off where they contact and slide on the clutch basket fingers . Every little bit helps.
You'll never 'mushroom' the steel clutch plate tangs on aluminium

 

[gray am I]

Sorry for not getting back sooner, but thanks for the replies. I was going to file the grooves in the basket a little when I noticed a broken spring on the back, and I am not going to drill out the rivets and replace the springs on a temporary fix. I have since found a much better basket from a local club member at a very good price.
I am making some clutch spring retainers, the first dummy is from 6061 to get the dimensions right, but am going to purchase some 7075 to make the actual parts, I had seen a different design to the usual socket head cap screw and this design seems shorter and lighter, had anyone tried this design, and what did they think of it ?

 

[650Skull]

Scroll down to 5twins post #31 and page 3 has a lot more info from him that should help.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3408&page=2