Clutch does not disengage, freshly rebuilt engine

JNizza92

XS650 Enthusiast
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I just finished putting the whole bike back together but I can not seem to get the clutch adjusted properly. I can not find a sticky or anything on how to properly adjust a clutch, and my Clymers manual is lacking...

The cable is hard to pull, but I get no clutch release at all.

Any advice?
 
After a few times that left cover comes off about as quick as you can remove yer shoes.....there's a ball bearing in the worm that can easily fall out and then I believe that first length of rod after that bearing has a smaller diameter end that goes in against the bearing in the worm.
 
How long did it take to rebuild? reason I ask, is if more than about a month or so, and you didn't soak the clutch plates in oil, they may have rusted together. I've seen it happen to quite a few "rebuilt" engines. You would be surprised how quickly those plates will rust together...
 
How long did it take to rebuild? reason I ask, is if more than about a month or so, and you didn't soak the clutch plates in oil, they may have rusted together. I've seen it happen to quite a few "rebuilt" engines. You would be surprised how quickly those plates will rust together...

Im having the same problem. I havent rebuilt yet, but there has always been fresh oil in the case.

Curious to see some more replys on this one. :shrug:
 
Clutch adjustment. Page 24 In the Clymer book. The adjustment procedure works good, I just back it out 1/8 turn instead of 1/4 turn.
Properly lubing the cables page 10. Use the oil method, much better than spay lubes.
Leo
 
How long did it take to rebuild? reason I ask, is if more than about a month or so, and you didn't soak the clutch plates in oil, they may have rusted together. I've seen it happen to quite a few "rebuilt" engines. You would be surprised how quickly those plates will rust together...
does that imply that you would actually see that they are stuck together? I had mine out for some time, most of it in a plastic baggie, but definitely in the air as well, although they all come apart fine and I didn't see any rust. I've actually since had them out when I had to get the push rod out. Just looking for a quick clarification.
 
Hi Guys have much the same problem (not after re build though)
Clutch was great not stiff or jerkin worked ok in November. took side stator cover off too polish and have run the bike 2 3 times a week tuning carbs valves cam chain etc.
lost no ball bearings cable lubed and smooth.Jacked the bike up started it pulled in clutch in first back wheel engages changes up through gears and down but still drives
back wheel with clutch in (HOW DO I ADJUST) Worm gear not worn or brocked. all cleaned greased and re installed still the same result:confused::laugh::D
its the best way too learn wife thinks I have left home bless her
atb
Kevin
 
If they got stuck together with a little rust, push it down the street, hop on it and throw it in 1st. They will unstick after a few attempts. I just did this very thing with an old Honda I've had laying around for years...
 
If they got stuck together with a little rust, push it down the street, hop on it and throw it in 1st. They will unstick after a few attempts. I just did this very thing with an old Honda I've had laying around for years...
great way to snatch your rear wheel sideways....may I suggest, put bike in neutral, pull in cltch lever, kick untill the kicker gives no resistance, then let the clutch out to start it.
My plates stick to gether and I have to do this before kicking it to life. I think I have ridges in the clutch basket that keep the plates from slidding.
 
No offence Angus but, as well as your method might fix his problem and my suggestion won't, have you never push started a motorcycle?
 
kevxs, clutch adjustment has been described many times, search for it or look in your repair manual. Clymer page 24, Haynes page 11.
Just back off 1/8 turn instead of 1/4 turn.
Leo
 
kevxs, clutch adjustment has been described many times, search for it or look in your repair manual. Clymer page 24, Haynes page 11.
Just back off 1/8 turn instead of 1/4 turn.
Leo

Got it ! on page eleven will try that it was the lock nut that had me confused:shrug:
like most things on this bike once I have done it a few times it very fulfilling doing the work myself.
Rear wheel bearings replacing and brake re build and bleed next Lovin it.
ATVB
Kevin
 
No offence Angus but, as well as your method might fix his problem and my suggestion won't, have you never push started a motorcycle?
none taken, and yes i have bumped over a motorcycle. When I first started riding, it was the only way to get the motor running, I was just a little guy then.
I offer a alternate suggeston, because we are not really sure whats wrong with the bike.
If it is a bike that runs, but is just hard to start, its simply alot easier to throw it down a hill then kicking your leg off.
Just my take on this particular situation.
 
If it turns out NOT to be the ball bearing and is in fact a frozen clutch, it really isn't that bad.

Just open the clutch cover, remove the tension plate and springs and completely disassemble the clutch plates. clean them off pretty well with brake cleaner and lightly sand the metal plates if needed.

soak them in oil overnight, and re-assemble! voila.
 
If you do take the clutch apart, look closly at the steel plates. They are made by stamping them out of steel sheets. This make the edges on one side curve in slightly, rounding them a bit. On the other side the edghes are sharp and can even be outward a bit. Use sand paper to remove this sharp edge. Try to match the other side.
This will let the plates slide in the slotds on the basket with out the sharp edge cutting into the basket and making the grooves for the plates to catch in.
You can very carefully use a file to take the high spots off the slots in the basket, just remove the high spots, any more can make the clutch jerky.
Also check the steels for warpage. See page 79 in the Clymer, paragraph 9, also measure the fiber plates, paragraph 8.
Leo
 
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