Clutch dragging. Bike creeps forward with clutch in.

Jeffodman

Jeffodman

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Hey guys, hoping you all can help me diagnose this and point me in the right direction.

I was about to go for a test ride today after doing a lot of wrenching/repairs over the last year, and I noticed the bike is creeping forward with the clutch in.

Some details:
- The bike sat for 10 years, but with oil in it.
- Bike didn't have this problem last time she was on the road. (10 years ago).
- This winter I put on smaller handlebars and rerouted the clutch cable.
- I pulled the pushrod out and I can see a ball bearing inside there with a flashlight.
- Discovered the pushrod oil seal leaks like a sieve when I shift.

Here's what I've done to try to fix the dragging:
- Thought the rerouting could be causing the problem so I pulled the cable out and let it hang free over the tank in one big stretch. No change.
- Followed instructions on this forum and in my Haynes manual to adjust the clutch while engine was cold. Tried several different adjustment configurations and didn't see any signs of improvement.

What's next to check or try? Manual says to "check drums for indentations in slots and clutch plates for burrs on tongues. Dress with file if damage not too great." Anything I should look at before that? Thanks.
 
My dad replaced the actuator 15 or so years ago because the plastic part was cracked. I'm not sure what he replaced it with but it was working fine last time it was on the road. For worm travel are we talking about its rotation, or the amount it pushes in on the rod?
 
it may have had oil down in the sump but did the engine get run every fortnight to circulate the oil around the engine?

if its sat that long without regular use you really will need to strip the clutch and clean all the plates..... it must be completely stuck up preventing the plates seperating properly and there is a good possibility of some rust too.

When you replace the worm assembly make sure you don't over tighten the fixing screws as it can distort the clutch worm and cause it to bind . Check the the worm arm moves freely before refitting the cover.
 
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I agree with peanut on stripping down and thorough cleaning of the clutch parts. However, I found with my '76 which sat for many years that no amount of cleaning cured the clutch plates from being sticky. Finally, I just replaced them, and this solved the issue very nicely. I also measured each spring carefully, and reinserted them in a manner that balanced the pressure around the clutch.

Nice bike.
 
IMHO most instructions include backing the worm screw off a bit TOO much. Fully release the perch adjuster then back the worm screw out just a little bit, or about 1/8 turn, now turn the perch adjuster out for about 1/2" free movement at the clutch lever tip, check action cold and hot, see if that helps.
Is clutch lever original? I have found several bikes with replacement levers that were "will fit" NOT "correct fit" the angles, distances are wrong and lever/perch won't give complete clutch action.
 
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gggGary said:
IMHO most instructions include backing the worm screw off a bit TOO much. Fully release the perch adjuster then back the worm screw out just a little bit, or about 1/8 turn, now turn the perch adjuster out for about 1/2" free movement at the clutch lever tip, check action cold and hot, see if that helps.
Is clutch lever original? I have found several bikes with replacement levers that were "will fit" NOT "correct fit" the angles, distances are wrong and lever/perch won't give complete clutch action.
Click to expand...
Thanks Gary, I'll try it again. As far as I know the clutch lever is the original.
 
peanut said:
it may have had oil down in the sump but did the engine get run every fortnight to circulate the oil around the engine?

if its sat that long without regular use you really will need to strip the clutch and clean all the plates..... it must be completely stuck up preventing the plates seperating properly and there is a good possibility of some rust too.

When you replace the worm assembly make sure you don't over tighten the fixing screws as it can distort the clutch worm and cause it to bind . Check the the worm arm moves freely before refitting the cover.
Click to expand...

Good tips, thanks. I hope I don't have to take it apart. I just want to ride it already...
 
Haven't had to take a clutch apart for dragging plates yet, this is a fairly large sample. I
have had several with slipping clutches.
 
I might suggest lubing the cable. Use the motor oil method the book talks about. It takes a while but lasts a very long time. Those spray can lubes you use the clamp on the cable thingy don't work a well or last as long. On the worm, take it apart, clean and liberally grease it.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
I might suggest lubing the cable. Use the motor oil method the book talks about. It takes a while but lasts a very long time. Those spray can lubes you use the clamp on the cable thingy don't work a well or last as long. On the worm, take it apart, clean and liberally grease it.
Leo
Click to expand...

Did this and it seemed to work for now! Still drags very slightly, but I can stop the wheel easy without much force from my foot. I found the info on here after lots of searching last night and tried it this morning. Lubed the cable all the way through with motor oil using a custom duct tape funnel and took apart the worm gear/actuator and cleaned it and regreased. Readjusted with only an 8th turn instead of a 1/4. I think my cable's a bit stretched though; The sweet spot at the lever seems to be just under a quarter inch of space between the lock nut and the other nut.

It's probably mentioned somewhere here already, but note the position of the worm gear threaded into the plastic part when taking apart to clean. I put it back together starting on the wrong thread and couldn't figure out why the case wasn't going all the way back on. Head scratcher moment, haha.
 
When I put different bars on mine, I didn't have the left controls (blinkers and such) rotated properly, and the clutch arm was hitting the control housing just a bit.
 
The free play at the lever should be gauged by the gap between the lever and the perch not at the adjuster and lock nut. Some use no free play some use their favorite coin some a measured gap.
 
Bottom line - set the adjustment quite snug when cold, both down at the worm and up at the lever. It will quickly begin to change, get more play, as the motor warms up. If set too loose to begin with, it could eventually develop too much play which means you won't be moving the pushrod or separating the clutch plates enough. Clutch drag could return.
 
Jeffodman said:
D

It's probably mentioned somewhere here already, but note the position of the worm gear threaded into the plastic part when taking apart to clean. I put it back together starting on the wrong thread and couldn't figure out why the case wasn't going all the way back on. Head scratcher moment, haha.
Click to expand...

yeah it was in the video I provided if you watched it:rolleyes:
 
gggGary said:
a lame clutch adjust video, need to do a better one.
Click to expand...

I'm wounded !........I'm going to sulk now :)
index.jpg
 
theres nothing wrong with your video G.....I'm always looking at mine and wincing with embarrasement at all the urms and urs and errors and gaps where I can't think of the right word lol:)

gggGary said:
:rolleyes:No not yours, the one I did was lame, sorry to offend, even if inadvertently. :redface:
Click to expand...
 

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