Clutch grind/knock

Justaguy

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I've had my XS bobber project for a few years now, I finally have some time to invest in finishing it. When I finally started it up again, it's running pretty alright. However, when I pulled in the clutch, I heard this noise that sounds like a grinding or a knock/tick coming from the clutch cover. I don't know too much about these engines, I'm a new builder so this is my first bike build. It's a 73 and was running and riding pretty well when I started chopping it to pieces a few years ago, I've run the engine periodically but it hasn't rolled so it may have something to do with sitting for so long. I took a video so it may be easier to diagnose. Any help will be appreciated!

Video link:
 
Yeah, that doesn't sound good. Better pull that right side cover, see if there's scrape marks on the inside of the cover, across from the pressure plate. You'll also need to check your oil and filters for metal flakes...
 
Will definitely do that. I realized that the clutch was just adjusted WAY to far in, backed it out and the sound stopped. As soon as I have some time, I'll do a full adjustment and see if I can find the sweet spot. I figured that because it was lurching forward when put into gear, it must not be disengaging at all. After reading all about clutch adjustment on here, I think I just went overboard.
 
I'm having the exact same problem with my build I just finished. The bike idles great but once I pull the clutch lever in (while still in neautral) I get that rubbing sound.

If I attempt to put the bike into first gear the bike dies and lurches forward slightly.

Could you provide more detail on how you resolved this?

Thanks in advance!

Liam
 
Try readjusting the clutch.
Remove the chrome cap on the lower casing of the engine on the left side.
12mm wrench and a JIS screwdriver to loosen the lock nut and the adjuster. Back the locknut off a bit and then back the adjuster out until its loose.
Next go up to the clutch handle perch and turn the wheel and the adjuster all the way in toward the clutch handle.
Now go back to the adjuster at the side of the engine and turn the screw in until you feel a slight contact with the internals. Make contact and then turn the adjuster screw out one quarter of a turn of the screwdriver, loose. Some will do one flat of the locknut in measuring which equals one sixth of a counter clockwise rotation.
Hold the adjuster in place with the screwdriver and then lock the setting down with the locknut using the wrench.
Next go up to the perch and start turning the adjuster out until there is about one eighth of an inch gap between the lever and the perch. Turn the lock wheel in to secure the setting.
Now test it. That should cure the lurching and stall when putting it in gear.
This procedure takes about fifteen minutes and can easily be revisited for finer tuning.
If you're still getting the rubbing sound then you may have to visit the clutch side and make sure all the washers and bearings are in and in their proper order.
 
I made sure the clutch was adjusted to the recommended settings but the problem persist as well as the noise from the clutch side case.

I took the clutch side case off and there were score marks where the pressure plate is rubbing against the inside of the case when the clutch lever is pulled in. The pressure plate doesn't seem to move too far out when the clutch is pulled so I'm wondering if the whole clutch assembly and basket are too close to the side cover....possibly a washer or spacer issue when the motor was reaassembled after overhaul...
 
LPYYZ, coupla quick checks:

Look at the fitment of crank primary drive gear to the clutch basket driven gear. They should be precisely aligned, no overhang of gear teeth. If not, suspect shim washer assembly.

Firmly grab the entire clutch by the basket. Agressively pull out, push in. Should be NO movement. If not, suspect failure of the double-row bearing behind the clutch...
 
Im away from home today but it sounds like I'll be disassembling the clutch tomorrow.

The primary gear and the clutch basket gear line up but there is about 2mm of free play in the basket...

With the clutch basket all the way in towards the engine the gears line up perfectly but once it's pulled out because of the free play the gears are offset as well. This free play is only with the basket. The plates, pressure plate, shaft, etc don't have any movement at all, only the basket itself.

The bike consistently stalls and lurches forward when I attempt to put it into first gear (with proper clutch adjustment). I thought that might be associated with the engine case rubbing but it could be a separate issue due to the basket free play or incorrect sequence of assembly.

The pressure plate may have been installed with the wrong orientation as well but that is now aligned properly with the basket marking. That seems to be the reason the pressure plate was rubbing against the engine cover.
 
It sounds like you may be missing a spacer washer behind the outer basket. There should be 2, a smaller O.D. thin one and a larger O.D. thicker one .....

wfEBron.jpg
 
...The primary gear and the clutch basket gear line up but there is about 2mm of free play in the basket...

With the clutch basket all the way in towards the engine the gears line up perfectly but once it's pulled out because of the free play the gears are offset as well. This free play is only with the basket...

Yup, missing or mis-sequenced washers...
 
Hopefully just mis-sequenced washers...I wouldn't know where to look for replacements for those washers other than the thrust bearing ones.
 
Even if the right washers were placed in the wrong place wouldn't the stack measure the same? With no slack?
 
Hey, WER. If the roller thrust bearing were placed atop the 2mm thick washer, instead of just behind it, the clutch basket would have excessive axial play, and the hub would be setting too far out, risking pressure plate contact with the sidecover, just like LPYYZ is reporting...
 
I took apart the clutch today and found that the splined shaft had about 2mm of freeplay. Everything else seemed to be alright including the sequence of washers etc.

I reassembled the clutch and the free play is gone. I held the shaft in the outermost position of its play when assembling and tightening the clutch basket. That might be the reason the free play has disappeared.
 
The engine side case rubbing has disappeared.

It must have been due to the clutch pressure plate being on incorrectly or possibly the small amount of free play that was there.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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