Clutch issues

[voelser]

I know the title is a bit generic, but that's kinda where I am right now. I've trawled the forum and have come across several things I've tried, but so far no luck.

This is a bike that has been rebuild. The engine received a top end treatment, new old clutch basket and brand new clutch plates. New clutch cable. Wormgear no cracks, cleaned and greased. All pushrods and balls present. Has been ridding a bit before, to MOT and back and since then has sat because of some issues.

The current issue is that the bike stalls as soon as you put it into first gear, so clearly the clutch is not disengaging. I've tried all the tips and tricks I could find on here to adjust it, but all that does is cause the bike not able to select gears: either I can select first and none of the others, or all of the others, but no first. But in all cases the bike does not roll freely in gear with the clutch pulled in.

It is looking likely that I will have to take the sidecover(s) off to have a looksie what is the matter, but before I do that on Saturday I thought I'd ask here if there is anything I am overlooking!

Thanks guys!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

With the different thicknesses and counts of clutch steel and friction plates available, you could check that you have the correct combo to get the proper total 'clutch stackup' thickness, about 29.0mm - 29.4mm.

I like to get a minimum of 0.050" of clutch worm pushrod travel. Cable, lever, and actuator worm configurations can be selected to get that.

With the right side cover off, check that the clutch pressure plate displaces properly, at least 0.050", and straight (no wobble). Mismatched clutch springs and/or a bad mushroom shaft interfit to the pressure plate can lead to uneven lifting...

 

[voelser]

Thanks TwoMany. I was hoping to avoid taking the side cover of (messy business) but it looks like that is the best way forward. Good to know those numbers though..

 

[rshelbert]

Only thing that pops into my mind is if the kickstand switch if faulty it might cause indicate this symptom. I had one that was bad and it thought the kickstand was down all the time so when you put it in gear it would stall just like the clutch was not engaged.

I do not know what years had them or if you have checked it but its a thought.

 

[voelser]

lol..I should have added: I've stripped the electrics to a bare minimum, so no kickstand switch...but thanks for the suggestion..

 

[voelser]

Right, so I have been playing around with clutch adjustment some more. So far I'm trying to solve the issue without having to open her up again and use the adjustment of the wormgear. This is yielding some baffling results.

After adjusting sometimes it lets me select first, but none of the other gears. Sometimes most of the other gears, but not first. Only once I managed to adjust it in a way that it let me select first and all other gears.

Having said that: in none of those cases did the clutch release when pulled in...

 

[voelser]

Right, so I opened her up and found a bit of a conundrum. The clutch moves freely and enough for the plates to separate. However they don't. They seem to 'stick' together with the remnants of (brandnew) oil acting as glue. You can easily release them with your fingers, but as soon as you release the clutch the plates stick together again. New clutch cable, wormgear cleaned, greased and set, new clutch plates and new oil. It has been suggested that the oil I've used may be too thick and causing the plates to stick. I used the recommended 20W50 though. Happy to try 10W40 if that solves the problem, but I thought I'd gather opinion!

 

[I am Carbon]

Were the fiber disks soaked in oil over night before installation?

While your in there make sure the gear selector is correctly adjusted
the engine in the video is upside down

 

[voelser]

To be honest: I don't know. The plates were put in by a 'professional', so you'd imagine they were. They were fine for a while, but this foible only turned up recently. Thanks for the vids though: very helpful and I will definitely check the gear selector!

 

[gggGary]

20-50 is pretty heavy for an XS especially in November!
Did you check your star gear and the springs that work the shift ratchet while you had the RH cover off?

 

[gggGary]

20-50 is pretty heavy for an XS especially in November!
Did you check your star gear and the springs that work the shift ratchet while you had the RH cover off?

 

[voelser]

Well, 20w50 is what it says in the manual...and I always do what I'm told....ahem...

I haven't checked them in detail, but I have added it to my list for this weekend already. It seems I need to get the clutch basket off for that first though as it obscures the gear selector?

 

[gggGary]

No you can see and check all those parts with the basket on. Changing some of them requires clutch removal. thought I remember 15-40 and I use ATV 10-40, oil's more better now than it was in 1980. ATV oil because they took the ZDF out of street bike oil now to protect the cats.

 

[voelser]

Thanks..I'll check it out..

 

[Ravensmoor Bob]

Hello Everyone, Interesting reading!
I'm based in the UK & just re-commissioned my XS2. I also have gear selection problems, & I am finding it difficult to achieve a compromise between clutch slip & gear engagement. I have used Morris's classic 20/50 oil, in other words no synthetic or friction reduction additives (so they say. My bike has done 9k miles from new & is an original 1972 uk spec bike. If I work to the Haynes manual will I crack it or is this a load of bull shit.?? Cheers Bob

 

[voelser]

You'll find the Haynes pretty basic in it's information. For more refined knowledge, this forum is your best resource...

 

[xs650dude63]

No you can see and check all those parts with the basket on. Changing some of them requires clutch removal. thought I remember 15-40 and I use ATV 10-40, oil's more better now than it was in 1980. ATV oil because they took the ZDF out of street bike oil now to protect the cats.

Hey gggGary, do you still recommend ATV 10W40? I saw Yamalub on amazon for $34,20 a gallon. Or do you think quicksilver full synthetic would be better. It's only a few bucks more? My plates are sticking together.Thanks!

 

[gggGary]

Wow this puppy's old, nowadays my go-to is Valvoline 20w50 racing oil.