Clutch Not Disengaging

[rmclaughlin]

1979 XS650 Special. Aftermarket clutch lever, Hugh's PMA, PAMCO.
Hey all. So I "think" I know what the problem is I'm just not sure how to fix the issue. Here we go.

I have the replaced clutch plates, electronics, everything. She starts up and idles perfectly. I take her for her first spin and she stalls coming out of gear. Rides fine once moving but when I slow down it stalls. I figure out that the clutch isn't totally disengaging. So I left her in gear, pulled in the clutch and she's still kinda in gear. Feels like the brake is being pulled. I've fiddled with the lever adjustment and the side adjustment and I can't get her to brake free with the clutch pulled all the way in.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

Rob

 

[rmclaughlin]

I just took her for a 20 minute ride. Shifts and runs great. Same issue with the clutch at low rpm. Lots of starts and stops etc to try to brake the plates loose if that was the issue.

 

[scabber]

Idle set at 1200 RPM? How are you adjusting the clutch at the side cover. If you are backing the screw 1/4 turn try 1/8 turn. The adjustment at the lever You can fine tune with. It is a balancing act . Disengaging and not slipping under power should be able to achieve.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

There's a variety of combinations of clutch lever, clutch cable, worm drive unit, clevis pin attach point, pushrods, clutch plates and thicknesses. It's quite easy to achieve a poor functioning clutch. You could pour thru these to learn more, and ruin what's left of your weekend:

Clutch worm actuator experiment and tidbits
Clutch worm mod testing
Clutch pushrod experiment and tidbits
Clutch cable experiment and tidbits
Clutch worm rotation gauge

Clutch worm depth dialgauge-post90
Clutch worm depth dialgauge-post91
Clutch worm depth dialgauge-post92

 

[rmclaughlin]

Not exactly sure what my rpms are. Took the tack off. I'll slap it on to set the idle correctly. The adjustment on the side cover is backed off slightly. I willl set it again back 1/8.

 

[rmclaughlin]

Also this will sound kinda stupid but since this is my first XS ill ask it anyway. I should be able to pull the clutch in first with the bike off and push it like its in neutral yes?

 

[weekendrider]

You should be able to push it but it will be harder than being in true neutral.

Posted via Mobile

 

[rmclaughlin]

At the moment its pretty hard to push.

 

[XSLeo]

Even at it's best the clutch will drag. The trick is minimizing the drag. Proper adjustment is vital to this.
You say you replaced the clutch plates, You might have the clutch assembled wrong. There is a mark on the hub. A hole in the pressure plate lines up with this mark.
This can cause several issues.
So with the bike not running, in gear, clutch pulled in, it will be hard to push around. Best to put it in neutral.
Leo

 

[rmclaughlin]

I lined the holes up when i reassemble the clutch. I can pull it apart again but in 99.99 percent sure. Took my time and did not rush and followed the manual and forum advise. I think it may be a bunch of tweeking with idle and clutch and fuel mixture etc. Any advise with the fine tuning? Clutch especially.
Thanks so much Leo for all the advise through this project.

Much appreciated

Rob

 

[Chris79]

if I let my bike set for a long period the clutch stick but I push and jump on ,ride alittle bit and it starts working, weird huh?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

You could try the modified adjustment procedure in this post:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=357879&postcount=116

 

[XSLeo]

Many use a method such as Two Many suggests. I have found that the method in the repair manual works well, with a few changes.
I doo it this way, now after you loosen the lever adjuster and unlock the lock nut on the worm adjuster, back the screw out a few turns. Spin the screw in/out a few times to get a good feel for how much effort it takes to turn the screw. this is important because as you turn the screw in, you want to know just when the increase in resistance is felt.
This is the point you have removed all the slack from the adjuster screw to the pressure plate.
Now you need to add a bit of slack back in. The book calls for 1/4 turn. I use the lock nut. Watching the nut turn it back out one flat of the nut. This is 1/6th turn. Lock the nut down. as two many said just snug, not too tight.
Now at the lever you should still have some free play. Use the adjuster to get about 1/8 to 1/4 inch free play.
I would recommend pulling the cover off and removing the worm and clean and inspect to determine it is not cracked. Lube it with fresh grease.
I clean the cable by flushing it out with one of those clamp on luber things and carb cleaner, always have some around. Brake cleaner, something of that sort.
Spray the cleaner through till it runs clear.
Now hang the cable up and let it drain over night. To lube the cable, as it hangs there make a funnel around the top of kitchen foil. A few inches deep. Fill with motor oil. Let it seep down into the cable. You can speed things up by moving the inner core in/out of the housing.
I have a Miti Vac, I use this on the lower end of the cable to draw the oil through the cable. Once oil comes out the lower end it's lubed.
Most of the spray cable lubes use too light an oil. It doesn't work as well or as long.
With a well lubed worm and cable, proper adjustment Even with my 70 lb. springs I can pull the clutch with two fingers.
Leo

 

[rmclaughlin]

Thanks again Leo. Also, i had to fashion my own return spring since the original was shall we say unspringy. If the one i fasioned isn't just so will it have an effect. I tried to duplicate the original as close as possible.

 

[XSLeo]

The strength of the s[ring might have so0me effect on the pull of the lever. If a lot stronger than stock the pull will be heavier. Enough to notice, I doubt it.
If your Home made spring is close to stock size it won't make enough difference to notice. After all it just pulls the worm back to it's starting point.
Leo

 

[rmclaughlin]

Cool. Thanks Leo