Clutch push rod swap. Is the one piece better

[CalsXS2]

Is using a one piece rod better than a two. I read on Mikesxs that there was something better about it,,,but I can't remember what it said.

So I put a 75 motor in my 72 bike and I'm buttoning everything up today. I was trying to get the 2 piece rod out, but I can't get the inner rod and ball. I thought about a magnetic screwdriver. But I'll have to go buy one. Any suggestions. Thanks

 

[bluebikerblan]

Good choice. I have succeeded with the magnetic tool....not a screwdriver but the small diameter telescoping pick up pencil like tool commonly available....sometimes and sometimes not. One piece push rod is more stable and tends not to wobble around against the push rod bushing & seal as much, many believe it seems.

While on the subject....the "Dimpling" of the pushrod control ends as a means of holding the ball bearing in the centers of the pushrod
and minimizing wobble wear (whether one piece or two piece) is a good mod in my view. Here's archive link....

http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6331 Blue

 

[xjwmx]

I kept my two piece rod, on the general principle that original parts are high quality and replacement parts may not be. I taped a magnet to a wire to pull the bearing and rod out, after the seal was out. The rod is kinda big and heavy.

Here's my recent experience.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10987

 

[jimmy5090]

Cal I used compressed air and it shot the rod and ball right out.

 

[Tomterrific]

I've thought about using an aluminum rod, either one piece or to replace one of the two piece rods. The reason being, the dragging hot clutch symptom. It has been suggested that there is a difference in expansion and the clutch adjustment gets too much gap when the cases get really hot. By using aluminum instead of steel for the rod, the rod would expand more.

Tom Graham

 

[retiredgentleman]

Yes Tom, the different expansions is still a problem. The 2 short aluminum rods were probably better than the 1 metal rod. I'm staying with the 1 long metal rod, to minimize wear and tear on the bushing and seal.

The dimpling mod that I got from xsjohn was sure a good one. I check it each year for any wear and so far I see no wear on the dimples. His original thinking on these bikes made him standout from the crowd. I must say I miss his witty bantering and sense of humour.

I recently drilled another hole in my clutch wormgear operating arm, closer to the centre of the worm. Not a new idea, as I think Mikesxs has a 2 hole operating arm. The stock distance was 1.781" and I changed it to 1.438". This changed the amount of pushrod motion (plate separation) from 0.079" to 0.097" or 0.018" more plate separation. I find this works better and much easier to find neutral. Yes, it does increase the lever force required slightly, but you get exercise without going to the gym

 

[Tomterrific]

The earlier lever arm on the screw mechanism did have a closer hole, less leverage, more movement. RG, it's cool that you drilled a closer hole for more movement, I've had those thoughts also but I like an easy clutch lever.

I have not had much problem with my clutch dragging because I use the extra step in the adjustment procedure I have been trying to get out there. Still, it's right on the edge when very hot and adjustment needs to be done at least every 1000 miles.

Tom