Clutch won't disengage....sort of

[ejdirin]

Hey guys,

I know people have posted in the past on clutches that won't disengage (stuck plates, cracked worm gear, etc). I have a similar problem and have done all but take the right side cover off to examine the clutch. I wanted to see if anybody had any ideas based on what I have so far....

I propped the bike up on a jack. The rear wheel would move very easily in neutral. Won't move when the bike is in gear. I tied down the clutch lever and jiggled the wheel for a little bit in attempts to loosen any stuck plates. I could then roll the rear wheel smoothly, but with a good amount of effort. So there was a change when I tied down the clutch hand lever. It seems like the clutch is trying to disengage, but not fully.

Any ideas on what the issue could be? Could it still be the plates, or is this pointing more toward a bad worm gear? On a side note, I lost the spring that retracts the worm gear and had to make one out of another spring. I don't think that would have an effect on things though. Also, the clutch cable is brand new from Motion Pro and not stuck.

My buddy is coming over later to work on the bike. I'm gonna try to take the left side cover from his 650 and put it on mine and see if that makes a difference. I'd hate to have to take the right side cover off if I can avoid it.

Also, separate question. I took the clutch push rod out and it appears to be the longer one (although the engine is a 79 XS650 SF). How many ball bearings are supposed to be there? Is the one inside the crankcase and another on the worm gear, or just one inside the case? Thanks!

 

[Sundie]

just one in the worm gear.

and i'm assuming you did your tests with the engine not running - so throw out bearing is your most likely culprit.

 

[ejdirin]

Correct, the bike was not running. So if it is the throw out bearing, I'll have to take the cover off. Would the throw out bearing be busted or just stuck? If its busted, where would I get a new one? I see Mikes doesn't have them...

 

[ejdirin]

Ok. So we just took the cover off and inspected the plates. They didn't look too bad. The friction plates were clean. The drive plates had a little varnish. I soaked everything in cleaner for a littler and reinstalled them. Everything was working perfectly when it was dry. But as soon as I put new oil in, the same thing happened. Actually, it would happen some of the time, but every now and again it would seem like it was working. I'm completely stumped as to what I need to fix/replace. Would this be consistent with the throw out bearing?

And putting a new left side cover with worm gear that works didn't help either....

 

[ejdirin]

And the pressure plate was moving when we'd engage the clutch hand lever

 

[XSLeo]

Even with a the proper adjustments a bit of drag as you describe is pretty much normal. When you ride it and you stop does the clutch release enough so it just sits there in gear? Not try to creep forward. If so it's ok.
The oil you use has a large effect on clutch action.

 

[ejdirin]

Yeah...the engine had been sitting for years, so there was plenty of time for those plates to stick. But there should be no reason why they'd stick immediately after they were cleaned, right?

Unfortunately, the bike creeps when you try to start it (aside from when its in neutral), so I'm stuck for now.

I placed an order with Mikes last night for the needle bearing with thrust Washer (39-6505) and an XS Performance Clutch Spring Set (39-6506). I hope that might solve my problem.

Any other ideas or thoughts???

 

[XSLeo]

All I can say is lube the cable and the actuator well. Adjust correctly. Works for me. I get mimimal drag, pull the lever with two fingers, easy to find neutral, no slipping.

 

[Wally]

I have this same problem with my clutch now
What was your result on this problem

 

[ejdirin]

Ended up grabbing a working clutch basket on ebay. Only cost about $40. So I was able to replace every plate for a decent price...

 

[colebrooker]

Hi ejdirin, I have the same problem as you describe. Was yours solved by the used basket only or did you replace the needle bearing as well?

 

[XSLeo]

Mike's new needle bearing is a good up grade if the stock one is worn out. If you replace a ggod bearing with Mike's new one you won't see much difference. If all the parts are in good shape and assembled correctly, proper adjustment and lube of the cable and worm will give you the best clutch action.
The close clearance of the clutch plates when disengaged will have slight drag. This is normal. If it drags enough to pull the bike while stopped, in gear with the clutch lever pulled then the clutch needs to be properly adjusted.
With a bit of searching you will find the proper method to adjust the clutch. You will also find pics of how the clutch is assembled. Proper order and amount of washers is important.
I havn't used Mike's springs so i have no experence with them, others who have say they won't hold up long. They weaken to a point less than the stock springs in less than a year.
I would reccomend the springs from 650central. MMM sells several strengths of springs.
Leo

 

[ejdirin]

I replaced all the plates. Used the new springs from MikesXS. The clutch is very finicky....

Best of luck!!

 

[riksoto]

I have found that if I loosen the cable to max slack.
then go to the worm screw and loosen the jam nut being careful not to drop the return spring.
then turn the adjusting screw in until there is no lash and no tension.
back the adjusting screw of 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.
adjust the slack in your cable while pulling on the cable housing leaving about 1/8" slack
that solved all my dragging clutch issues
great lockup and no drag and neutral is a breeze hot or cold

 

[colebrooker]

Thanks for all the info. and replies. I now know the procedure, my clutch problem was solved by a new set of friction plates. The old ones had stood for years and a new set from Canada at a good price via ebay did the trick. Getting the bike back on the road for 1st April, can't wait.