For sometime Ive had a bike that ran hot. Today I changed engines. When doing so I partially tore down the engine that ran hot. In the cylinder walls were gouges maybe deep scratches is more like it deep none the less. In pics u might be able to see them.
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Could this make the bike run hot?
- Thread starter Tully
- Start date
Can't really tell from those pics. Maybe post more pics after further disassembly (piston skirt, valves & seats, ring gap, etc). The dark lines seen, so far, are not typically associated with excess heat.
Max Midnight
XS650 Addict
Possibly a daft question but a) how do you know it is running hot and b) How hot is hot?
Do you have any temperature readings?
Do you have any temperature readings?
That looks like "less than normal" XS650 cylinder scoring.
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Piston looks pretty clean.
U can feel the scoring and they are deep.
How many miles on that?
the scoring I can see from the pics wouldn't cause an engine to run hot.
Running hot is almost always an external problem. Lack of cooling from fins being blocked, dirt caked or broken.... Too much ignition advance... lean mixture.... dragging brakes.....
speedo said 9000 but sat in a salvage yard since 86.
Max Midnight
XS650 Addict
From the above can we assume you've not run it...or have you? Still like to know what leads to think it runs hot.
I'm intrigued by this. Air cooled bikes like our XS650 tend to run 'hot'. Airflow whilst riding keeps the temps in range.
Idling at a standstill makes the temps rise. More info is needed to evaluate why Tully thinks it's running hot; as Max M has asked.
What equipment and how has Tully taken the heat measurements (what are the heat readings?); and under what conditions. Riding under load or idling on its stand etc.
Idling at a standstill makes the temps rise. More info is needed to evaluate why Tully thinks it's running hot; as Max M has asked.
What equipment and how has Tully taken the heat measurements (what are the heat readings?); and under what conditions. Riding under load or idling on its stand etc.
Me thinks it's not really a heat related problem, but an XS Charge Ignition with E-Advance acting-up after 15-20min operating on a capacitor
So the spark becomes erratic -bogs, maybe even quits - and it just acts like it's too hot
So the spark becomes erratic -bogs, maybe even quits - and it just acts like it's too hotwell here it is. I am on my 2nd engine. With the same electronics. Today I couldnt get 3 miles out of the bike and it wouldnt run engine was hot wouldnt down shift correctly I dont have anything to gauge the temp with internally. And a cheap ass walmart gun to check outside temp. which is around 320 and higher. Is so hot I cant touch a single thing on the head. I am running MikesXs PMA kit with the blue electronic advance and single dual output coil.Me thinks it's not really a heat related problem, but an XS Charge Ignition with E-Advance acting-up after 15-20min operating on a capacitor
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If the temp gun is accurate, 320F is quite hot indeed and about 50F hotter than what I think is normal. I still have the opinion that it is the ignition that may be causing that - perhaps too advanced. If it were me, I'd at least try a battery and a points system (if on hand) to see if it fixes the issue
I Have it all but the springs for the original advance and I ruined the wire harness to make one for Mikes Junk. Ive baught 2 advances 2 coils and two rec/reg in one.
I do have almost all of a wire harness from a 1980.
Can I use the rec/reg in one and pma and use the original coil and advance?
You can leave the charging system as-is. Just use the original advance and wire the points, as originally, to coil (-) with condensers in parallel, the 12V + side of the coils should be ok as is.
example
example
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I dont have any room for a battery. Would this need a battery?
Me thinks it's not really a heat related problem, but an XS Charge Ignition with E-Advance acting-up after 15-20min operating on a capacitor
Not likely… they are super solid.
