Yes: points' wire, condenser wire, and coil (-) orange all together
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Could this make the bike run hot?
- Thread starter Tully
- Start date
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Note the "kill switch" supplies +12 volts to the coils from the battery/ignition switch.
I am afraid my request was unclear. Lately I have been good at "unclarity". Please get good pics of the plugs into the depths...
Is there a certain way that this connects to cam? I have the nut Im just not sure if I put this back together correctly
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First make sure you have the pin in the camshaft that locates on the inner notch (keyway) in the center. I always have to place the base on the cam and then tighten the ring nut then assemble the center and weights in place. There is a line on the base and a line on the center that get lined up (see pic) - about 8 O'clock if I remember right.
That 8 O'clock is with the locating pin at 12 O'clock. Anyway here's a pic of it properly assembled, but the locating pin in the cam is now ~ 4 O'clock in this pic
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Timed the bike went for a 3 mile ride and back started to miss a bit. Took a 15 mile ride misses badly. Not running a battery. Capitor only.
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Same capacitor the entire time you've had the problem?
You've eliminated the finicky transistors - even if the XSCharge was reliable, any transistor is finicky about its power supply. So now the capacitor itself - and whether the PMA is able to keep it charged - is suspect. The points and coils ain't that particular, but they do need reliable 11VDC or so to produce good spark. You should be able to test the PMA feeding the capacitor and verify it's getting ~ 14.5 volts DC from the rectifier/regulator. If not, test the alternator itself by testing AC volts between each yellow output wire: should be 20-25VAC, each leg, @ 2000rpm or so
PS - plugs look really good
PS - plugs look really good
I didnt test power yet as I am stranded in town. Now I have spark on one side of the engine not the other no idle will run a bit on one cylinder. Will try a battery once I get "it!!" home.You've eliminated the finicky transistors - even if the XSCharge was reliable, any transistor is finicky about its power supply. So now the capacitor itself - and whether the PMA is able to keep it charged - is suspect. The points and coils ain't that particular, but they do need reliable 11VDC or so to produce good spark. You should be able to test the PMA feeding the capacitor and verify it's getting ~ 14.5 volts DC from the rectifier/regulator. If not, test the alternator itself by testing AC volts between each yellow output wire: should be 20-25VAC, each leg, @ 2000rpm or so
PS - plugs look really good
cant get the bike to run to test. Will replace capacitor with battery and give it a try.You've eliminated the finicky transistors - even if the XSCharge was reliable, any transistor is finicky about its power supply. So now the capacitor itself - and whether the PMA is able to keep it charged - is suspect. The points and coils ain't that particular, but they do need reliable 11VDC or so to produce good spark. You should be able to test the PMA feeding the capacitor and verify it's getting ~ 14.5 volts DC from the rectifier/regulator. If not, test the alternator itself by testing AC volts between each yellow output wire: should be 20-25VAC, each leg, @ 2000rpm or so
PS - plugs look really good
Sorry to hear about your troubles - it's a process and I think you're making progress.
So for a battery on a kick-start only set-up, you don't need the big 8lb 14Ah spec original battery. Similar non-electric start bikes with XS type ignitions run fine on 12V 5Ah batteries. So, anything in between should work. I don't know what you may have on-hand, but if I were buying one, I'd go with a 12V 5Ah sealed lead acid type (SLA). Here's some examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=dur...dCd44ChDVNXoECAAQaQ&biw=1186&bih=596&dpr=1.62
So for a battery on a kick-start only set-up, you don't need the big 8lb 14Ah spec original battery. Similar non-electric start bikes with XS type ignitions run fine on 12V 5Ah batteries. So, anything in between should work. I don't know what you may have on-hand, but if I were buying one, I'd go with a 12V 5Ah sealed lead acid type (SLA). Here's some examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=dur...dCd44ChDVNXoECAAQaQ&biw=1186&bih=596&dpr=1.62
what I do have for a battery is a sealed 12 volt 3ah. I used it to run the bike when I first purchased the bike and ran it before I started the build.
