countershaft seal issue

pregrid

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After finally getting the tracker on the road the only real problem I have is a countershaft seal leak (and a pretty good one at that). After removing the sprocket and seal I found out why. I don't know if the chain broke at some point, the chain just flat wore out, or someone was using too small a front sprocket, but much of the seal boss is ground off (see pic). The leak was between the seal and the boss. In fact, when I tried to pry the seal out it pretty much just fell out. On the new seal I have there's a lip that runs around the outer diameter and looks to correspond to a groove cut into the boss, presumably to help retain the seal. However most of that groove is gone. I've thought about just gluing the new seal in place(with something like The Right Stuff or something similar) but I'm not sure it will hold. I've also considered getting another seal that is half the thickness. I don't wanna find another case at this point so anyone have experience with this sorta thing?

countershaft.jpg


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pregrid, that retaining bead around the circumference of the seal is just that. It does most of the work in retaining the seal squarely in the case aperture. The bulk of the actual sealing, though, is done where the inner circumference of the seal actually meets the output shaft.

If you use a seal that's half the thickness, I was thinking it might actually work, but it would have to be a seal that's reinforced by a spring, like the original, because that's what keeps the sealing surface in uniform contact with the countershaft. That's worth a try, and might work with a bit of Yamabond on the outer circumference.

If it doesn't work and you don't want to get a new case now, you could perhaps pack that opening with a greased rag, use a dremel and file to flatten the aperture faceout, and then chemically "weld" an aluminum spacer of the appropriate diameter and depth to the remaining face to "surgically reconstruct" the boss. Just a thought, for in a pinch.

TC
 
Thanks, think I'm gonna try a thinner seal-got a bearing place not far from here, hopefully I'll get lucky. just wanted another brain or two to bounce this off of.

Posted via Mobile
 
I'm not sure why you'd want a thinner seal. Would give less gluing area. Also, it goes in pretty tight, or at least mine did.

Here's what I'd do, short of buying a replacement case or motor. I'd clean it real well then apply the goop of my choice to the seal only, not the case, because it might get pushed into the bearing. Then drive it in. Then I would goop around where the case part is missing.

It has to do two things - stay in, and seal oil. I think goop'll get 'er done. One question would be goop versus temperature. Don't know how hot the case gets right there. But it's not a job for silicone. Maybe Right Stuff like you mentioned is stickier
 
I'm not sure why you'd want a thinner seal. Would give less gluing area.

Not in this case, half the "gluing area" is already gone. I've never seen a seal that was designed to protrude outside the said area. A thinner seal would put the whole weight of the seal inside this area and none hanging over the edge that might hasten the seal's tendency to work it's way out during normal engine vibrations, or so it seems to me.

hotdog said:
Pregrid, Another option - half way down the page, you might have to get someone to machine you up one of these sleeves with the different OD seal..??

Best of luck.

Thank you, another option for sure.

Posted via Mobile
 
^Well, I cant tell how much of the flange is still there as well as you can.

If I was determined to have a thinner seal, Id put a dremel with a cutoff wheel in a vice and turn the seal under it on a flat surface to give the height I wanted.

You might consider putting the full height seal in and fiberglassing around it, where it protrudes.
 
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