De-Lacing

Adrenaline-Junkie

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Alright, i have a wheel i need to delace so i can put some xs650 hubs in and i dont know where to start. I researched and got a lot of contradictory info. Any help would be great. Thanks
 
I normally start by:

1. Take the tyre off
2. Have a good look at rhe rim for damage - pointless stripping to find its cracked
3. Take a quick snap to address any relacing queries
4. Give all the nipples a squirt of WD40 - both ends
5. Use a flat head driver to crack them all off
6. Undo all the nipples
7. Rattle out all the spokes - Done
 
Should i loosen them in a certain order or loosen them all a little bit at a time? Sorry, should jave mentioned it before but its an aluminum dirtbike wheel if that makes any difference.
 
rusted on nipples, why god made cut off wheels. clean wheels just come apart, midwest rusty wheels; pb blaster on a q-tip in and out of each nipple. I go around the wheel with an aluminum block and a hammer hit each nipple once from both sides to loosen the rust on th threads. Then correct bit in a hand impact wrench hit every nipple till it turns. now just unlace it. cordless drill on low in impact mode speeds this up but I have done plenty with a screw driver.
 
I loosen and remove all I can intact, cut the others out. Save at least some of the old spokes. Besides an emergency spare spoke, you can make lots of useful little tools out of them. Simplest is all different lengths of probes and pokers. If you use the dead cylinder method on your carbs, a spoke nipple just happens to have the same thread as the stud on a spark plug. You can make little extensions for the plug caps. This allows you to quickly short out one cylinder or the other with a screwdriver to the head .....

CylinderGrounds.jpg
 
Good information, I have set of spoke wheels that I will be de-lacing to have the rims and hubs powdercoated black. Any words of wisdom on what to look for or do before powdercoating?
 
Got the second rim and its super clean compared to the first, should go even easier than the first.

If anything just look for damage like cracks and bends. Im getting most of my stuff vapor blasyed before coating.
 
On a side note, here is how you should and should not ship a wheel. Proof that feedback doesnt always mean something. Guy said thats how they ship all of their rims and nobodys complained.

20160401_114629_zpsirs1tbqw.jpg


20160331_143847_zpscuhl5n5n.jpg
 
If you're putting the same rim (or replacement that's the same) back on the same hub, you might want to take some rim to hub offset measurements before you disassemble things. If you're using a different rim, you'll have to do some math. Basically, on 650 wheels, the rims are centered over the spoke flanges. This isn't necessarily the center of the overall hub width. This is particularly true on the rear. The sprocket side sticks out more than the brake side.
 
Then you'll need to do some measuring and figuring. It's just simple math.
 
I'm talking about getting the new rim centered over the spoke flanges when you lace it. If you're not going to do the lacing yourself then that should be handled by whoever does. Just make sure you tell them the rim is centered over the spoke flanges. It's not like that on every wheel but the 650 ones are.
 
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