did i use the wrong torque wrench?

doctavee

XS650 enthiusiest
Messages
222
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Sacramento, Ca transplant from New Bedford, Ma
i went to loan my torque wrench to a friend and he said he needed a inch lb torque wrench and not my foot lb torque wrench. this lead me to think that the reason why my engine leaks from a few spots is that maybe all the bolts are over torqued. so i have purchased a new gasket kit to install but before i install i wanted to make sure. also the engine was bored to 670 and currently is running. please let me know what everyone thinks
 
Multiply feet by 12 to get inches, done. Really that's it. Now a foot pound wrench may not have the accuracy to tighten 6mm bolts like on the sump pan or side covers.
Example; 10 foot pounds is 120 inch pounds. Check the charts to see which way they are called out.

This may not be polite but;
If you can't tell that you are off on a "correct" bolt tightening torque by more than a factor of ten, maybe you should put the tools down...... So I'm going to guess you were using the correct torque or at least close and your buddy is the dummy here.
 
how old is your torque wrench? how is it stored and handled?--little off subject i know, but if it leaks..
 
Foot Pounds is correct in nearly all instances unless inch pounds is specified. Because of its smaller size an inch pound wrench can be used for certain hard to get to places (bolts under sparkplugs) as long as you multiply the setting x 12.

Damn, I've got to learn to type faster.

roy
 
Foot Pounds is correct in nearly all instances unless inch pounds is specified. Because of its smaller size an inch pound wrench can be used for certain hard to get to places (bolts under sparkplugs) as long as you multiply the setting x 12.

Damn, I've got to learn to type faster.

roy

i forgot to mention that my friends bike is a sportster and he was installing a 1250 kit so thats kind of weird that his bike called for inch pounds no?
 
Multiply feet by 12 to get inches, done. Really that's it. Now a foot pound wrench may not have the accuracy to tighten 6mm bolts like on the sump pan or side covers.
Example; 10 foot pounds is 120 inch pounds. Check the charts to see which way they are called out.

This may not be polite but;
If you can't tell that you are off on a "correct" bolt tightening torque by more than a factor of ten, maybe you should put the tools down...... So I'm going to guess you were using the correct torque or at least close and your buddy is the dummy here.

does everyones bike leak? even after rebuild? ha
 
Is it a "clicker" type? Because if it is, they must be stored turned down to near their minimum setting. If you store them cranked up, that can throw their accuracy all off.

A torque wrench gives the most accurate reading through the middle portion of its range. In other words, using it for fasteners requiring it to be set near its minimum or maximum setting is not ideal. That's why they made different ones with different ranges. I consider the inch/lb one a "must have" for doing the little fasteners like those M6 ones Gary mentioned. In fact, out of all my torque wrenches, its the one I use most.
 
That would depend on which bolt he was tightening. I don't have a sportster but some of the bolts on the ultra call for inch pounds if I remember correctly from replacing the fuel pump. On a side thought if the poundage was low enough you may want to convert and use the inch pound wrench as in Garys example of 10 ft. lbs.
 
That would depend on which bolt he was tightening. I don't have a sportster but some of the bolts on the ultra call for inch pounds if I remember correctly from replacing the fuel pump. On a side thought if the poundage was low enough you may want to convert and use the inch pound wrench as in Garys example of 10 ft. lbs.

thanks for all the quick replies guys! go fast! at least now i don't feel like an idiot now
 
Is it a "clicker" type? Because if it is, they must be stored turned down to near their minimum setting. If you store them cranked up, that can throw their accuracy all off.

A torque wrench gives the most accurate reading through the middle portion of its range. In other words, using it for fasteners requiring it to be set near its minimum or maximum setting is not ideal. That's why they made different ones with different ranges. I consider the inch/lb one a "must have" for doing the little fasteners like those M6 ones Gary mentioned. In fact, out of all my torque wrenches, its the one I use most.

yes clicker type
 
I usually get a good bit of flack for this, but unless its head bolts or specific instances where exacting gaps need to be maintained, I rarely use a torque wrench. Most all of the bolts on my bike have been replaced with SS socket head so they are all coated in anti-seize before being installed. I use a set of T handles for the majority of the bolts and tighten them up until the t handle starts to deflect. Since the smaller handles are thinner and the larger thicker along the shaft it works out pretty much perfect.
 
..... until you strip one, lol. I've had a couple different in/lb torque wrenches over the years. When I 1st started using one, I would set my M6 fasteners at their max, about 8 ft/lbs or 96 in/lbs. Eventually, I stripped one. I don't do that max value anymore. Steel screws into alloy get about the middle of the spec now, 80 in/lbs.
 
Being european, we mostly use Nm, earlier it was Kgm (kilogram meter).
So when two of my friends were working on the automatic transmission on an old Dodge station wagon, the manual stated some torque values in "lbsin" (inch pounds), they scratched their heads, and looked at the torque wrench they had at hand. It actually had three scales, Nm, Kgm and "lbsft" (foot pounds). They then agreed that "lbsin" and "lbsft" must be more or less the same thing, and then proceeded to break ALL fasteners they intended to tighten.......The end result was buying a used transmission instead!

On a more serious note, I definitely would recommend abandoning inches, feet and pounds altogether, and get on with the common SI standard for torque, Nm (Newtonmeters), which is what everybody else is using these days. Also, I recommen using the smallest practicable torque wrench, as it will be more precise when applying torque to small fasteners, like M5 or M6. I have two inexpensive ($60-70 each) "Teng Tools" 3/8" torque wrenches myself, one 5-25 Nm (Which basically covers M5 to M8 fasteners) and one 20-110 Nm, which is just enough for wheel axle nuts on most bikes. 3/8" is definitely the best size for socket sets and acessories when working on motorcycles, imo.
 
Hope these help, from the 1981 H supplement. Torque values did shift around some through the years.


torque values1.jpg torque values2.jpg

I'm with Funky Monkey; aside from a few critical things like head studs the "arm wrench" does most of my setting. Some of that is my age, a torque wrench was an out of reach luxury when I started working on bikes. Anyone remember working on the early hondas? Often those philips head cover screws would stretch and stretch long before they would tighten.
 
Is it a "clicker" type? Because if it is, they must be stored turned down to near their minimum setting. If you store them cranked up, that can throw their accuracy all off.

A torque wrench gives the most accurate reading through the middle portion of its range. In other words, using it for fasteners requiring it to be set near its minimum or maximum setting is not ideal. That's why they made different ones with different ranges. I consider the inch/lb one a "must have" for doing the little fasteners like those M6 ones Gary mentioned. In fact, out of all my torque wrenches, its the one I use most.

+1, you should never use one @ lowest or highest setting. Ours were checked for calibration periodically, and if you dropped one hard, it had to be checked. It's a precision tool & you get what you pay for. Cheap is not always good.
 
I relate to what Gary is saying. When I was a young buck, working on bikes and cars, I had no money for a torque wrench. You soon learn how much torque is needed, after you strip a few small bolts.

Fast forward to to-day, and I fully believe a quality torque wrench is your best friend on these bikes. Instead of buying fancy chrome covered do-dads for your bike, put the money into a good torque wrench. Actually (as 5twins has mentioned) you need two, a ft-lbs wrench and an in-lbs wrench.

Is there real life value in using a torque wrench? Since I did a top end re-build about 6 years ago, I have zero oil leakage on my engine, and no stripped threads.

Ask someone who has stripped a spark plug thread if a torque wrench is a good idea.
 
People go ape shit on their spark plugs. I don't know where they got the idea they need to be so tight.
 
Back
Top