Oh; usually you can find an o-ring to fit, a little lube to ease the valve into the body helps you want a snug fit, but don't hammer it in.
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do these floats look normal?
- Thread starter emzdogz
- Start date
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- carburetors
so, last night I pulled the needle valves again and lo and behold, since having fuel in there, the rubber o-rings "chubbed up" and so they are once again tight. Yay!
Also, I tried hard to drown my floats and make them take on water, but they would not, so I guess they are ok.
First I just let them float in hot water. But then after a while I set something on them to drive them underwater, and let them stay underwater, and then when I removed the weight, they popped right back up - so I believe they are watertight.
Adjusted the float height - they were pretty much right on though.
Also, I tried hard to drown my floats and make them take on water, but they would not, so I guess they are ok.
First I just let them float in hot water. But then after a while I set something on them to drive them underwater, and let them stay underwater, and then when I removed the weight, they popped right back up - so I believe they are watertight.
Adjusted the float height - they were pretty much right on though.
REPLACE those O-rings!!!!!!!!
mmphmph mmmphh!
mmphmph mmmphh!
Did you take them off? Maybe someone before you has replaced them. Everyone I have removed was brittle and broke before I got it out of the groove. O-rings cost what 50 cents? I will confess I built a special tool to remove tight float valve bodies without damaging them.
Often the path to curing issues lies in the systematic elimination of possible problems.
horse water drink? It's your bike though.
Often the path to curing issues lies in the systematic elimination of possible problems.
horse water drink? It's your bike though.
They were so snug I couldn't get them off. Well I could have forced them off with a screw driver, but they wouldn't just come off by hand or by just lightly probing/prodding with a tiny screwdriver. And no black stuff coming off 'em, like disintegrating rubber often has. That whole area was really really clean. The screens down there were/are super clean, etc.
The only part I've not taken apart now is the tops, to inspect the diaphragms. I would bet $$ at this point tho, that they are fine.
Something tells me this set of carbs didn't see service long on a bike. The only thing I have found "gnarly" is one float has a dent in one side and appears to have a dot of solder on the inside, right in the center. But it floats...so I guess it's ok.
After a bunch more blowing out with carb spray and air, the liquid residue in bottom of large metal tray I am using as work space WAS kinda brownish though, so what I'm hoping is there was crud in some passageway, that I've now blown out.
We'll see! I will be re-installing them tonight, I hope.
Maybe I'll pop the tops off and look at the diaphragms just for the heck of it. I hate doing that though, because I find it difficult to get them to set just right in that little ridge at the top of the casting, when putting the lid back on.
thanks Gary - I really appreciate your help. Let's see what happens.
The only part I've not taken apart now is the tops, to inspect the diaphragms. I would bet $$ at this point tho, that they are fine.
Something tells me this set of carbs didn't see service long on a bike. The only thing I have found "gnarly" is one float has a dent in one side and appears to have a dot of solder on the inside, right in the center. But it floats...so I guess it's ok.
After a bunch more blowing out with carb spray and air, the liquid residue in bottom of large metal tray I am using as work space WAS kinda brownish though, so what I'm hoping is there was crud in some passageway, that I've now blown out.
We'll see! I will be re-installing them tonight, I hope.
Maybe I'll pop the tops off and look at the diaphragms just for the heck of it. I hate doing that though, because I find it difficult to get them to set just right in that little ridge at the top of the casting, when putting the lid back on.
thanks Gary - I really appreciate your help. Let's see what happens.
The things we find out two pages into a thread....
you haven't had the tops off???????
That mean you have not removed the emulsion tubes. You can not clean the emulsion tubes unless they are out. Did you remove the pilot jets? They HAVE to come out also.
Do a full overhaul and clean. The diaphrams go back in place easily I like to silicone lube them bit for flexibility A little sliding around of the tops is all it takes to seat the diaphragms where they belong.
you haven't had the tops off???????
That mean you have not removed the emulsion tubes. You can not clean the emulsion tubes unless they are out. Did you remove the pilot jets? They HAVE to come out also.
Do a full overhaul and clean. The diaphrams go back in place easily I like to silicone lube them bit for flexibility A little sliding around of the tops is all it takes to seat the diaphragms where they belong.
yeah I removed the pilot jets, which were clean.
I had a really bad experience once, removing an emulsion tube on a cursed pair of 38 I used to own. I know the ones on the 34's are different. OK I will take that apart too. And I will take a pic of the tubes before I clean them.
I'm very curious now, myself.
These carbs, except for blob of dried mud at the tip of the fuel line coming off the "T" have been pretty darn clean. No crud, no spoogey stuff...
Will take pics later of emulsion tubes, pre-cleaning. Just for the heck of it!
I had a really bad experience once, removing an emulsion tube on a cursed pair of 38 I used to own. I know the ones on the 34's are different. OK I will take that apart too. And I will take a pic of the tubes before I clean them.
I'm very curious now, myself.
These carbs, except for blob of dried mud at the tip of the fuel line coming off the "T" have been pretty darn clean. No crud, no spoogey stuff...
Will take pics later of emulsion tubes, pre-cleaning. Just for the heck of it!
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
If you lube the needle jets up, you can tap them out using a wooden dowl as a drift.
The main jet uses a common metric thread size, M5 I think. I find a bolt or screw of that size, thread it in place of the main jet, and tap on that. I've gotten some pretty nasty ones out using this technique and haven't had to drill any yet (in fact, I never heard of that).
Thanks for bearing with me, my frustration (was it showing?) has eased off, and I'm back on board. Lets get this silk purse on the road.
It is frustrating sometimes, isn't it, lol. Let me relate to you my favorite "carb cleaning" story .....
I stopped by this kid's house who recently got a 650. He and his buddy were going to do a chop-bob-sawsall job on it. He had the motor out on the bench already with the carbs still mounted (don't know how they did that). He was scrubbing the outsides of the carbs with solvent and a toothbrush. I asked him what he was doing. He said "I'm cleaning the carbs .....". I reached in one of the intakes with my finger and the slide was stuck solid, lol. That was several years ago and, needless to say, that bike hasn't run yet.
I stopped by this kid's house who recently got a 650. He and his buddy were going to do a chop-bob-sawsall job on it. He had the motor out on the bench already with the carbs still mounted (don't know how they did that). He was scrubbing the outsides of the carbs with solvent and a toothbrush. I asked him what he was doing. He said "I'm cleaning the carbs .....". I reached in one of the intakes with my finger and the slide was stuck solid, lol. That was several years ago and, needless to say, that bike hasn't run yet.
The pilot jets have a VERY small hole through the end I typically use one strand of a stranded motorcycle copper wire to make sure it is clear. you should be able to look through it at a light and see a round hole. On the pilots and emulsion tubes clean the cross holes with soft copper wire.
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
on that, anything harder than the brass of the jet can damage it (thinking steel guitar string)
I'm also waiting for someone to "define normal" after all even Freud said sometimes a cigar is just a cigar
so last evening I pulled the tops off. The diaphragms are nice...so un messed with that they weren't even difficult to re-seat. The needle jets, which were pretty easy to tap out were, as I suspected based on everything else I've seen in this set of carbs, quite clean. All holes unplugged.
The pic shows light coming through a hole - pretty hard to document in a photo.
Anyway I guess I am somewhat disappointed. Had hope to find lots of scum to clean and that would prove to be why the bike doesn't run for more than 3 seconds before cutting off.
The pic shows light coming through a hole - pretty hard to document in a photo.
Anyway I guess I am somewhat disappointed. Had hope to find lots of scum to clean and that would prove to be why the bike doesn't run for more than 3 seconds before cutting off.
Attachments
We are with you here.So tell us the whole gory story. We are looking for clues at the scene of the crime. to start: Are we 100% certain it's a carb issue? Could be ignition, poor grounds. water in the gas (insert long list).
So tell us the whole gory story. We are looking for clues at the scene of the crime. to start: Are we 100% certain it's a carb issue? Could be ignition, poor grounds. water in the gas (insert long list).
"Could be ignition, poor grounds" I'm afraid that's it. Gas is pure as can be. I have spark and yet it cuts out as if a kill switch was flipped. I go to restart and there's spark, but it doesn't want to catch and run again.
More later. Lots to do today to figure it out.
Hmmm. Gas. Only thing is I DO have regular in it.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
A while ago I had rebuilt my carbs and it did a similar thing. It would fire u then stall out after a few seconds. Then would not fire up again. So I held the throttle wide open, no choke, and it started up. I kept the throttle up to run it at a high rpm 'til it idled fine. About a minute or two. After that it worked fine. As if something was a little stuck, or as my father would, "had to get it flowing good".
emzdogz;
As gggGary said, it may not be carbs at all. How old is the ignition coil(s) and spark plug leads? Is your fuse holder(s) in good condition?
As gggGary said, it may not be carbs at all. How old is the ignition coil(s) and spark plug leads? Is your fuse holder(s) in good condition?
