Drilled mag wheels?

Just got my back wheel done
Looks cool Yes
 

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Hard to see in that pic Wally.

Found this somewhere. Don't know what these rims come off
 

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Yea still around Wally. What did you cut them out with.

No idea what the wheels are off. if any one can tell me i would love to know
 
Here's my thoughts for when I do mine. I have a couple bridgeports and lathes laying around and this is how I figured I could get it done. This may not be the correct way, but just my two cents.

1. Remove hub bearings
2. Turn a tapered plug that fits the center of the hub and drill a hole in the middle to use as a clamp for fixturing.
3. Align center of hub with center of spindle
4. Drill a smaller hole in the spoke towards the rim side and a larger one at the hub side
5. Use a 1/4 end-mill to run from outside edge to outside edge of each hole to create the cut-out. All milling is simply done in Y-axis. (since I don't have the skills to generate a perfect radius on a bridgeport i figured drilling the two different size holes would be the easiest)

Just a couple thought form a machine salesman. I'll be sure to do a write-up if anybody is interested. If not, I can just post some pics of the completed project when I get around to doing it.

Best,

Ryan
 
I had the exact same thoughts. Only time will tell and I hope the story has a happy ending. It looks good, I want to do it but....



Just have to comment; that Buell front wheel uses a radial mount brake disk so the stopping torque does not transmit through the "spokes" The Buell does not have "hollow spokes" on the rear wheel which has to accept torque loads from the engine.

Quote:
The large-diameter rotor provides exceptional stopping power without the weight of dual rotors and calipers. Because braking forces are transmitted directly from the rim to the rotor, torsional load at the front wheel is virtually eliminated, which permits the use of a very lightweight cast aluminum front wheel.
 
ok i see everyone is using all this fancy equipment. why not just layout the holes center punch and just drill them. why use the big expensive stuff

lol. I wouldn't call a bridgeport and a clausing lathe fancy, but they get the job done. I'm currently working on a project to sell one of these :D :

H4000%20action%20for%20web.jpg


Now that's fancy. 130HP 30,000 RPM 1000 IPM feedrate....

I think you are referring to drilling holes in the wheels which I'm sure you could do by hand, but slotting them like I was referring to would likely require a manual mill. I'm sure there is somebody out there with a very steady hand that could do it with a dotco, but that would be very difficult.
 
I wish my build was coming along a little bit faster. The first person who runs these NEEDS to do some burnouts and jump some ditches in a field to test them :laugh:

Seriously though, I do suspect that this may be just too much material to be removed safely. I'll put mine to the test as soon as the bike is built.
 
Punkskalar-

I hear what you're saying, but I don't think that these things will explode. I wouldn't be too surprised if a spoke starts to crack but I'm not too worried...... yet. I don't intend to start on this project quite yet. I still have a 115HP salt flat racer v-twin bike that needs a bunch of work before I can start on this next XS. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this thread and see if anybody has some real world experience with slotted wheels. I'm willing to bet that like a lot of OEM things they were over-build and the slots will not be detrimental. I'm looking forward to your tests!!!
I think I ran across a thread where a guy was running these wheels already but I could be wrong.
 
BTW Punkskalar, any chance I can get you to loan me that hub plug so I don't have to make my own? Honestly, I just ask out of pure laziness. Shipping is on me :) and if you ever go through Wichita drinks on me too :thumbsup:
 
Every one this side of the fence reckon wheels were well over
engineered from Yamaha in the first place
Well mine will be on my bike in about a week I reckon
I will start of slowly first but no silly stuff from me just hard down under riding
 
I think the amount of webbing left inside the spoke makes a difference, at least to my non engineer eyes. IE leave some web don't take it all the way out to leave just flange. Or two shorter slots instead of one long one. You know the old conservative route. These were early motorcycle mags, casting quality, engineering, testing, and field experience all contributed to the later, thinner, wheel designs. Hard to overstate the danger of wheel failure. Minor point; as an experiment I busted up a bent Honda front mag with a 12 pound maul just to see what it would take. It took a lot, I whaled on that sucker a LONG time before I was able to bust it up. It bent and deformed a whole bunch before cracks formed and parts broke off. Like the airplane guys say when making changes; just remember YOU will be the test pilot. If you do this you have added a regular inspection area to your bike.
 
Looking good Wally, is it the angle the pic was taken cause some of them don't look to be in the center
 
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