Drive Chain Tension

bdholsin

bdholsin

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Looking at my drive chain it appears to be sagging a bit. To tension it properly it looks like I just have to loosen the castle nuts at the rear wheel, loosen the jam nut on the tensioner and crank the tensioner bolt in (on each side) then check for wheel trueness...right? How to I gauge the chain as "tight enough"?
 
Keep in mind that when you sit on the bike, the suspension compresses slightly and the chain will get a bit tighter. Check the tension while seated on the bike. If you don't, you may end up making it too tight. Also, roll the bike up and down the driveway and check the tension in several spots. Chains stretch unevenly and can have tight and loose spots. You want to get correct tension at one of the tight spots. I go for about 1" up and down play in the chain while seated on the bike.
 
if you really want to set correct chain tension first find the tight spot then with the bike on the center stand remove the shocks and jack up the rear wheel until the swingarm is level this will be the maximum lenght between front and rear sprockets set your chain tension with the tight spot at this setting, chain with about 1/4-3/8 slack, of course chain alignment also is a factor so you need to make sure chain runs true on the sprockets (wheel offset)
your results may vary:)
 
5twins said:
Keep in mind that when you sit on the bike, the suspension compresses slightly and the chain will get a bit tighter. Check the tension while seated on the bike. If you don't, you may end up making it too tight. Also, roll the bike up and down the driveway and check the tension in several spots. Chains stretch unevenly and can have tight and loose spots. You want to get correct tension at one of the tight spots. I go for about 1" up and down play in the chain while seated on the bike.
Click to expand...

Thanks 5twins. Seeing as I top the scale at 150 pounds (soaking wet) I will have to get my boys to help me compress the suspension a bit more than by myself. This is one of the "things to do" that I wanted to research before I do it. Sounds like I may want to leave it alone until I get it running...maybe this weekend.
 
Hey everyone, so I just tried to adjust the drive chain tension and the right side bolt broke off. suggestions? do I have to take the axel out and remove the wheel now? this just happened and I am still swearing.
 
20161121_122200.jpg
 
You could try to remove the broken bolt just as it sits now, but I agree with Daddy, the best thing to do is to remove the axle.
With the axle removed you can take the adjuster bracket and put it into a vise, so its easier to work on. Soak the broken bolt with your favourite penetrating oil for a couple of days.

A left hand drill bit or an E-Z out would then be used to remove the broken bolt. If the right hand side is that bad, then this is the time to free up the adjuster bolt in the left bracket. Use some anti-seize on those threads as you re-install.

Another choice is to look in the classified section here, and just buy another bracket and bolt.
 
You're assuming the axle will even come out, lol. From what I see in the pic, that bike is a crusty, rusty, corroded, neglected mess in serious need of some "lube love". The rear brake shoes are probably shot too if the brake rod adjuster is any indication. It's sad to see these bikes get like this. Shame on you. Most of us here are fixing these bikes up, renovating them and bringing them back to life so they can run down the road another 30 years, but obviously everyone isn't.
 
thank you gentlemen for the speedy replies . i recently bought a rim and spokes from MIKES, I guess this forces my hand to throw it on there...if I have to take the thing off anyway
 
5twins, I bought this bike from my boss for 200$, it Had been layed down by his son at 40mph. it was absolutely neglected after that. I am bringing it back to life. turning into cafe' racer over the winter.
 
That rusted broken bolt is just an indicator of what you are about to find on the rest of the bike. You will find that just about every system on the bike needs to be worked on and/or replaced . Some $200 bikes like that, are simply "parts" bikes. To restore it will take a lot of time and a lot of money. If you like a challenge, you will have fun.
 
Mateo Verde you may just want to buy replacements for some of the stuff. gggGary or Daddy G would probably have them. You know what your time is worth better than I.
 
I've seen lots worse. You will get it going. To get that bolt out, get the axle out of there and start twisting what's left of the bolt sticking through with a needle nose vice grip. You will probably need some PB Blaster from Walmart at least. If it's too hard, heat it up with a propane torch until it's smoking like a house afire and try some more with the vice grips.
 
I wonder if there would be enough room to thread a couple of jam nuts on the inside of the bracket?
 
Take this advise. Buy two cans of penetrating oil. Spray every bolt nut and joint with the first can. Yes, I mean the entire bike! The second can of P-oil is used for the threaded part you are working on at the moment.

Tom
 
weekendrider said:
I wonder if there would be enough room to thread a couple of jam nuts on the inside of the bracket?
Click to expand...
That's a good idea too. It's probably thin enough to temporarily spread open a little bit. But since it was stuck enough to break off I suspect it will take a propane torch. If you don't have a torch you can lay it on your stove burner if you aren't married (or are and don't want to be).
 

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