Mateo Verde
XS650 Member
Thanks everyone I got the bolt out. Now I just have to find a replacement. I am going to through the entire bike this winter piece by piece. it is going to be at frame off restoration, cafe' build.
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Drive Chain Tension
- Thread starter bdholsin
- Start date
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- Tags
- maintenance
That bolt is special, it has a tapered tip. Sure, anything will work, lots better than the one that broke off, but it won't be technically right. You can do all the "custom" building you like but some of the basics shouldn't be fucked with. A "frame off restoration" is good, what most of us would like to see, but I don't see it happening in a parking space out of one box of tools. In your dreams maybe, in my dreams maybe, but they don't call them dreams for nothing. Prove me wrong, please, I want to see this bike renovated and done up right.
Hi Mateo,
First, because you'll need lots of it, the shade-tree mechanic's penetrating oil recipe:- Equal parts Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Works as good or better than propriatory brands at ~1/10th of the cost.
Do NOT use an easyout to try and remove that broken adjuster. It won't work.
It'll snap off in the pilot hole instead and it's busted-off end is harder than any known drill bit.
I'd advise against using a left-hand drill bit, too. You don't want to threat the rest of that rusted adjuster out of the hole, you want to thread it in.
First make a screwdriver slot across the stub's inner end. Then after it's soaked in it's jar of penetrating fluid for a day or two, carefully drill into the busted end with a 3/16" drill bit. This should loosen the stub enough that a screwdriver should turn it. If not, take it out to 13/64" and try again.
First, because you'll need lots of it, the shade-tree mechanic's penetrating oil recipe:- Equal parts Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Works as good or better than propriatory brands at ~1/10th of the cost.
Do NOT use an easyout to try and remove that broken adjuster. It won't work.
It'll snap off in the pilot hole instead and it's busted-off end is harder than any known drill bit.
I'd advise against using a left-hand drill bit, too. You don't want to threat the rest of that rusted adjuster out of the hole, you want to thread it in.
First make a screwdriver slot across the stub's inner end. Then after it's soaked in it's jar of penetrating fluid for a day or two, carefully drill into the busted end with a 3/16" drill bit. This should loosen the stub enough that a screwdriver should turn it. If not, take it out to 13/64" and try again.
Fred, he got the broken bolt out at 4:00 in the afternoon.
Hi RG,
yeah, good for him!
It was only after I hit the "post reply" button that I realized I was still on this string's page one because my reply opened up at the bottom of page two which included his "It's out" post.
That's what one gets for sitting up late at the computer while alleviating one's cold symptoms with hot rum/honey/lemon toddies.
Shade tree mechanic's cold cure:- In a tall glass; one shotglass full of lemon juice & 6oz of not quite boiling water. Stir in a heaping tablespoon of honey until it's dissolved. Pour a shotglass full of rum over top. Sip until gone. Repeat as required
