Dual output coil test woes...

CoconutPete

1979 XS650 Special
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So I'm using the standard testing procedure on this dual output coil and I think the verdict is that the coil is bad. But because this is my first time testing a coil I'm doubting myself. Here are my readings. Can you let me know your thoughts? Images are titled according to test step.

  1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
  2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open)
  3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit)
  4. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance (open circuit)
  5. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms
 

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IMHO keep trying. Cant see your leads in pic so we can't know if you have it right. hook up and ground two plugs, attach one side of coil to hot (+12) touch and remove a wire from other terminal to a ground, you should see spark when you REMOVE the ground connection.
 
Gary: do you mean leave the coil grounded (via the ground to the middle terminal) unhook one side, leave the other side plugged in (the red wire hits the coil with 12v when ignition is on, I checked) and then ground the other terminal on the coil and remove it?

Essentially, ground to the body of the coil, 12v to one side terminal and then also ground the opposite side?
 
put sparkplugs in the boots, ground them. leave the 12 volt hot on it's terminal. remove the green ( when the engine turns the pamco closes and opens the green to make the spark.) then attach a wire to where the green was touch the wire firmly to ground then remove, the plugs should spark when you open the ground connection.
edit; yes you can leave the coil frame grounded.
 
put sparkplugs in the boots, ground them. leave the 12 volt hot on it's terminal. remove the green ( when the engine turns the pamco closes and opens the green to make the spark.) then attach a wire to where the green was touch the wire firmly to ground then remove, the plugs should spark when you open the ground connection.
edit; yes you can leave the coil frame grounded.

Going to do this tonight. Thanks for the clarification!
 
...just to add a bit of clarification: the spark will occur when the connection is broken - NOT when the connection is made. That is why Gary suggests connecting everything and THEN removing the green wire.

It is breaking the connection that causes the spark.

Thank you Mr. Kettering.
 
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Disconnect PAMCO, follow Gary's step-by-step. Got it.

I did actually remember the spark-on-disconnect. I was reading something - i can't remember what - the other day about spark plugs and coils and the phrase "this causes the magnetic field to collapse" just sounded cool, so it stuck with me.
 
Well... nothing... I even installed a giant extra battery ground cable to make sure the ground was good.

Should I run a straight 12v to one side of the coil and a direct ground to “tap” to eliminate variables?
 
OK ... Coil is mounted and the core of the coil is grounded.
Put 12V on one side of the coil.
Hooked up a nice solid ground and tapped it to the other side while I stared at both plugs connected and grounded to the engine.
Nothing.

Came from a place that rhymes with Schmikes Shcmecks Ess.
 
The last pic doesn’t look like it but just want to be sure. That doesn’t have fixed coil wires like the stock xs coils on a tci system?

The wires on that coil are not fixed. The wires are replaceable, 7mm metal core, copper or alloy. Briggs and Stratton type wire like the original Yamaha wire..........or............I use alloy core, 7mm, silicone wire from NAPA. My NAPA has that wire, sold by the foot, an old "Speed Shop", not many NAPA stores stock that wire. I used to sell that wire and plug caps as a kit for GoldWings. My NGK plug cap source dried up and put an end to that.

Scott
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-Honda...927242?hash=item1a41d9914a:g:wZoAAOSwzOxUWTku

A good match for a Pamco or TCI ignition, with a great reputation. AVOID AFTERMARKET COILS.

Scott

Edit, small and easy to mount, ditch the wires.

A list of other Hondas that used that coil. Beware, the generation of Honda coils before this one were CRAP.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/30510-KT7-013?ref=a758cc579013d398ac98144e983bc79033a2d77e

I pay about $10 each, sometimes 3 from a GoldWing for about $25.

Scott
 
So... I was just getting tired of not knowing anything... I tried swapping the caps and wires from my old points setup into the mix and seeing if that made a difference. Still no dice. Here are the test results again. I think what this tells me is that the coil is shorted out.

  1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms. Ok. 2.6.
  2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open) bad. Zero.
  3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit) yes. 1
  1. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil.Should be infinite resistance (open circuit). Yes. 1.
  2. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms. Yes. 15k.
Oh... and MrTwoWheel: I ordered that Goldwing coil based on your recommendation.
 
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Which coil was it exactly you got Pete..............Smuckes sells a replacement TCI coil he claims/states is a High out put coil. This is the coil that has had problems in the past with the terminals pulling out of the coil.

The other High output coil for the Pamco's could be confused with the TCI one........
 
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