I started making my special spanner today so I can tighten that little fella up with the bike fully assembled. In the process I found mine is quite loose - but should be sorted this time tomorrow.
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Engine Gasket Leak....help needed!
- Thread starter Paul75
- Start date
Most are very loose. Chances are good they have never been checked since the factory put them in, lol. You can barely see it and can't get at it with the bike fully assembled, and most don't think to check it when they have the carbs off.
Tighty Whity's here. 
Pete, photo will appear if tomorrow brings success. Need to MIG part of it when it stops raining.
BTW - I like your nice new avatar. Highly optimistic!
OK Pete, here it is:
Click on the image to enlarge. The spanner fits up between the carburetors and onto that little bolt. When tension is applied to the handle (the bottom of the stepped part) the forces cause the spanner to lift off the bolt head so I added the 4" nail to press down on to counter this problem. It does work but would I buy one ...... No!
The effective length of this spanner for applying torque is 2 inches. Therefore to tighten the bolt to 7ftlb would require me to apply a force of 42lbs. I cannot see that being done in a controlled manner. For my 81 Special I think the answer is to remove the air boxes, drop the carburetors out and then use a socket and small torque wrench, or do as gggGary suggested and use a flexible extension. But then where would the fun be of making something, especially something that doesn't work particularly well?
Click on the image to enlarge. The spanner fits up between the carburetors and onto that little bolt. When tension is applied to the handle (the bottom of the stepped part) the forces cause the spanner to lift off the bolt head so I added the 4" nail to press down on to counter this problem. It does work but would I buy one ...... No!
The effective length of this spanner for applying torque is 2 inches. Therefore to tighten the bolt to 7ftlb would require me to apply a force of 42lbs. I cannot see that being done in a controlled manner. For my 81 Special I think the answer is to remove the air boxes, drop the carburetors out and then use a socket and small torque wrench, or do as gggGary suggested and use a flexible extension. But then where would the fun be of making something, especially something that doesn't work particularly well?
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Actually I'm thinking the length could be much more if you used the four inch nail to apply the torque or put a wrench on the end of the tool that is pointing down.
Hmmmmm....without meaning to be unkind Paul, my reaction is yuk.
....where are my wobble extensions?
....where are my wobble extensions?
I just ordered flexible extension.
Atta boy Paul - now you’ll prove that Kiwis really CAN do anything!
IMHO this is one of the those bolts where there is absolutely no substitute for experienced feel. I wouldn't dream of a using a torque wrench on THAT bolt, or for me any 6mm into a 40 year old aluminum casting that's had who knows how many apes tightening on it before you.
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Indeed - this is one place for a gentle touch.
I don’t like leaks, but I’d rather have a tiny leak on an old bike - than a stripped thread.
I don’t like leaks, but I’d rather have a tiny leak on an old bike - than a stripped thread.
On madness just now that bolt wouldn't budge, tighten OR loosen. In an unusual fit of wisdom I left it the F alone!
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useful link re the Suzi washers . heres some just 5x left in stock
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-G...263724&hash=item33c5449419:g:qJQAAOSwa~BYWn1a
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-G...263724&hash=item33c5449419:g:qJQAAOSwa~BYWn1a
Well glade you started this thread got me to thinking about the 1978 I'm slowly working on. So I decided now was the time to have at those head nuts. As there is no tank on it and the carbs are off.
Took one nut off at a time in the torque sequence and applied a little oil to the threads and tightened to correct torque. Before loosening each one marked the nut so I would know if it stopped at the same place as it was before I removed them. Everyone ended up about half a flat from where it was, around 30º tighter!
I marked nuts one time and came up with about the same thing as you kshansen, a flat, flat n half tighter.
Using the replacement washers isn't why it stops leaking, tightening the nuts properly is. The problem with those rubber/metal original washers is they won't let the nut stay tight. Don't put your torque wrench too far away because you'll be using it often, lol.
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