Engine trouble after bike sat

gregyammerhammer

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Hi, Like another post last week, I'm resurrecting a 1980 xs650 that has sat in barn for the past 12 years. It fires up on the third or fourth kick. It idles okay. It takes off in first gear fairly quick, but then it starts to sputter and backfire, especially when I crack up the throttle, backfires sometimes into the carburetor. I've cleaned the carbs twice, I did not replace anything in them, though. I didn't remove any jets, they were seized in pretty good. I used guitar strings, toothbrush, carb cleaner, etc. and made sure the little holes and passages were clear.

Don't know about the charging system, but, its got a new battery that hasn't quit, and the headlight comes on quick after just kicking the motor and having it sputter for a few revs. New rubber carburetor-manifold seals, petcock and tank cleaned. Gas flows well. I've got a good hose on the vaccuum port to the petcock.

Any suggestions? I hate to throw money at something I don't understand.

Yes, I've ordered a manual from Amazon that is supposed to be delivered in June.

I've never participated in the forum but have been tapping into a few of your posts to get me through tough spots for the past several weeks.

In case anyone's interested, here's a few other notes about my project: I cleaned the brake cylinders, replaced front master, new brake lines, and got the brakes working. I patched a couple of bad wires here and there. Rats had nibbled on some and the wire from alternator to rectifier had been damaged by the chain. The insulation on the red wire was worn off in a spot. That would explain the frequently drained batteries I remember from last rides on bike 11 years ago.

I tossed the light safety relay behind the battery because I couldn't figure out why my headlights wouldn't turn on, and subsequently learned how the darn thing was supposed to flip from low to high if one bulb burned out, but that you could live without it. I cleaned and repaired light switches, put on new Euro bars and bar-end mirrors. New clutch cable. I unstuck the clutch plates, cleaned the oil strainer. I spray painted the tank Navy blue with Rustoleum. It orange peeled, but meets the 10-foot rule.

Next will be fork seals. I'll wait until I have manual in hand. I could also use some tips on polishing the engine, which was caked with oxidation. I used Marvel Mystery Oil to cut and scrub through a lot of it off, but, dark stains remain.

I recently sold off my more valuable bikes, a Norton and Buell, to finance my extravagant lifestyle. The XS 650 is more my speed anyway. Just want a fun,
old-timey street hopper for Sunday morning jaunts.
 
Hi greg and welcome,
if you didn't pull the jets you only half-assed the carb cleaning. On a 12 year parked bike didja check if the carbs still have the EPA-mandated plugs over the slow running needles?
If those suckers ain't been pulled and discarded the slow running needles and associated passages have NEVER been cleaned since new.
 
You ALWAYS have to replace the O-rings found behind the float bowl needle valve body they will be hard and cracked allowing gas to bypass the needle.
if the idle screw plugs are still in place they have to go. Half assed carb work always = half assed running bike.

Read the carb guide, the factory service manual is available for free download it. Look through the tech button at the top of the page, the labor, $$ and time you save on the way to great running bike is incredible.
 
Your "cleaned the oil strainer" probably means you have not removed and fixed the torn sump screen.....
 
I agree. I'll see if I can find a carb rebuilt kit, including o-ring. Once I try to remove the jets, I have a feeling they'll be damaged because they're stuck. No EPA caps were on slow jets and, miraculously, the carbs appeared pretty clean, compaired to petcock and gas tank, when I first opened them up. However, I do want the bike to run good!
 
Ok, will remove jets. I hope I can get them to turn without rounding out the brass. Threads look coated with black crust.

Get the proper flat screw driver that "fits" the jet. Not only the length but the width. It has to fit the jet perfect. Sometimes if you give the end of the screwdriver a wack with a hammer you can break em loose. If you hold your breath, grunt and squint your eyes they should turn out for ya. Only in that order though. Lol
 
:agree: Exactly! bit of PB blaster or carb cleaner, WAIT, then flat on a solid bench or block at just above waist height so you can get your chest above the screwdriver. After the light hammer tap, hold breath, lots of down pressure and that perfect amount of twist pressure, but not TOO much! The reward of that "tink" when the jet lets go of the body threads is priceless! If you feel you are going too high on the pressure, STOP try to tighten it a bit then go back the other way.
Hint; if you can't/won't grind a screw driver to be a perfect straight sided fit for the jet and that tiny threaded hole, small engine shops sell jet screw drivers that are a perfect fit for a just a couple of bucks. The carb body you save will be your own.
 
Yes, the jets need to come out, a lot of crud hides behind them.
A 50/50 mix of actone and atf make an excellant penetrating fluid.
Being an 80 it has the TCI, or Transistor Controlled Ignition. It doesn't like low voltage.
Next time you get it running test the battery voltage, at idle, 2500 rpms and 5000 rpms.
This will tell you just how well your charging system is working.
Leo
 
Ok, will remove jets. I hope I can get them to turn without rounding out the brass. Threads look coated with black crust.

Hi greg,
you need a drill press. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight or other el-cheapo unit will be OK for amateur work and once you have it you'll wonder how you got through life without it.
Step 1)
Don't plug it in.
Step 2)
Find the nearest too large hex bodied screwdriver bit and grind
(What? No grinder? Ah well, back to Harbor Freight, then.)
it to an exact fit in the jet's screwdriver slot and put the bit in the drill press chuck.
Step 3)
Put the carb body on the drill press platform with the jet pointing straight up, press the screwdriver bit into the jet's slot, keep bearing down on the drill feed handle and turn the chuck backwards by hand to remove the jet.
Also works on cratered out crosspoint screws.
The screws you are going to toss out and replace with Allen screws
 
These tips are unbelieveably good! Having just cleaned the carb for the other bike I sold, I could have used the drill press method (fortunately the jets came out without it). Also, I used a ground down skinny screw driver, but could have made it more exact. I also liked the info explaining why the 80 XS is voltage sensitive. I remember some 12 years ago having battery troubles (later deduced as a shorting alternator wire). I remember taking it to a bike shop and the tech tested voltage and said it was close to 12 so it probably was good enough.

I didn't get a chance to pull the carbs to do it right this time yet, but, I can tell you I'm chomping at the bit.
 
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