engine won't turn over...can I have to much compression?

I replaced the bendix gear and took the clutch off just to get to the gear. I thought I replaced it the same way I took it off. Took me 2 attempts, I didn't tension the kicker the first time. Is there a step I missed putting the clutch together? I just followed the manual. I know with the kicker off it is easier and you can feel the air push out the spark plug holes. Blew the dipstick out when t was just sitting on the threads.
 
I posted a video of the motor trying to turn over. Would a clutch problem be more suspect considering the cam tension seems right, valves I checked and re-checked, battery is reading 12.6v, plugs out the problem didn't go away and I did have spark going through both of them.

This problem started before I ever took the side cover off, I took it off, replaced bendix gear which meant I had to remove the clutch and now the kick start won't engage the engine. Did I miss something on the kicker or on the clutch. I never removed the kicker only the clutch and basket to get the gear in.

 
Cannot figure this out for the life of me.
So I have put in a new AGM battery, no help.
Loosened off the cam chain tension, no help.
Adjusted and re-adjusted the valves, no help.

Tried kicking it with plugs in, nearly impossible. Took plugs out and it was smooth and easy. Took the carbs off the bike and checked if floats were sticking maybe. They seem to be ok and moving freely.
When I initially drained the oil when this whole fiasco started, it stunk like gas. Could the crankcase have fuel in it and could that be what is causing this whole thing? I remember somebody saying vapor lock, how would I fix that?
Thanks again guys
 
In the video it's turning over, just slowly like a bad battery, but you've put in a new battery. You say it does ok with the plugs out. I would put in lighter oil like 15w-40 rotella and remove one plug and try to start it on one cylinder. It might not get you to the problem directly, but it's something different! Ground the loose plug wire. Don't put the plug in while it's running.

Just as different and probably easier - just run jumper cables to it from a car. Leave the car turned off. Better yet, remove one cable from the car off of the battery,
 
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Timing too advanced? Makes it MUCH harder to kick. Ask me how I know.

I have to JUMP on my kickstarter, friends try to kick it, and I always warn them. They don't listen and nearly get a kickstart pedal up their ass. :laughing:
 
did you perhaps change out your clutch spring screws while you were in the clutch? i had the same symptoms after i installed clutch springs screws from a major online xs retailer. the screws were a hair too long and scrapped the clutch basket. with the spark plugs out, the clutch springs screw scrapping was not enough friction to slow down the engine from turning over so all seemed good. with the plugs installed, the screws were the straw that broke the camels back.

i pulled the clutch apart to make sure i had it back together and found this.


once i installed my old screws and cleaned up the hub, it worked like a charm.
100_8510.JPG
 
I tried playing around on the bike today. Took carbs and exhaust off, turned it by hand a couple times. Ended up having to leave for a while. Came back, put carbs on with no air filters and it fired right up. Put the filters and exhaust on, now nothing.
It has the original clutch screws and I am running rotella 15w40.

I am able to kick it and it rotates a little more freely now but it makes an odd gurgling sound. Could this be timing related? Can I check and adjust timing with the bike not running? I am getting spark, good battery, good gas, new carbs.
(just a hypothetical guess, could my carbs be leaking into the cylinder with the bike resting on the center stand and the front forks lowered)
 
It's good w/o the pods and exhaust. You put the exhaust and pods on and it was no good. You took the filters off again and it was still no good.

That leaves the exhaust as the culprit. Did somebody jam a potato in it? :D
 
Plugs are ok. Odd thing is it is ally easier to kick now. It ran for a couple seconds then I shut it down. Kicks better but still won't start.
On a side note, the negative terminal cable was really warm earlier, sanded the paint down and reattached it. Not heating up now. Electrical issue?
 
It works fine without the exhaust. Fix the exhaust. Or were you lyin?
 
Pods and exhaust are off and have been off this whole time. It only had one intermittent start and that's it. It is a new set of exhaust straight pipes from mikes with the keihn carb kit.
It's really looking like I'm pulling it out of the bike this week and going into the basement to be tinkered with. I GOT THE OK FROM THE WIFE!!
 
You can call bullshit all you want. Would it make sense for me to be constantly posting online that my bike won't run just for the sake of saying it doesn't run. The video unfortunately doesn't show the exhaust and pods off. If a video of the whole bike as it sits helps my 'internet reputation' then I am all for posting it.
Thanks for all the previously informative posts,
 
excuse my ignorance here, but if I am getting popping or air blowing out the carbs does that indicate a valve issue. Had a buddy over last night who said it would seem like the exhaust valve isn't opening at the right time.
The tappet cover closest to the front wheel is the exhaust valve, right? I rotated the engine through its cycle, watched for compression stroke and the mark on the alternator to the mark on the cover. I assumed that would be TDC.
Despite how this thread looks to other people, I am truly lost here, chasing my tail.
 
If you don't know which valve is which or how to find TDC, I don't think tearing the engine down is a good idea, lol.
 

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