EX-Pull clutch Cable is too long

[glennpm]

Hi,

I got my clutch EZ Pull clutch cable installed this weekend but the cable itself is about 1/2" longer than I'd like. TooMany has noted the extra length in one of his threads. I am real happy with the pull force, measured at about 15 lbs max, after making the worm gear mod and cable alignment tricks of his.

When adjusted with 1/8" gap at the handle, I only have about 1/4" of thread engagement into the handle thread. I don't have a lathe so am looking ideally fro a longer adjuster so I could just use stock EZ Pull cables in the future. The stock one has a 8-1.25mm thread X 23mm long. I'm also thinking about getting a Flanders cable end as a second option and shortening the cable, not the sheath, by about a 1/2".

http://www.flanderscables.com/action.lasso?-search&-database=_Flan_Levers.fp5&-layout=Cables1&-Format=FlanCableResults.html&-Error=FlanCableError.html&-Operator=Contains&Type=Fitting&Catagory=CablePart

"Solderless set screw barrel fitting, O.D..312” (7.9mm), will accept .062” (1.5mm) to .100” (2.5mm) wire." 620-28020

Any sources for a longer adjuster or other options?

 

[DIRTY DOG]

I know this is silly qusetion but did you adjust it at the worm gear? loosen it all the way out set the cable at the handle adjuster a few treads out then adj the worm gear get the eng hot and readjust.

 

[glennpm]

No, not a silly question, but I do believe I did it correctly. I'll check it again tonight to make sure I didn't have any pre-load from the handle end. I snugged the screw lightly in and then backed it off a 1/4 turn and tightened the lock nut.

Thanks

 

[5twins]

You might be able to make up a little spacer from the end of the elbow on the old cable and add it to the bottom of your new cable where it enters the case. Cut the bottom off the old elbow about like so and cut a slit in the side so it will slip onto the cable .....

 

[glennpm]

Thanks, this is a good idea. I put a couple of 1/4" washers on the bottome yesterday which helped a wee bit. I'll check it out. If I could get another 1/4", I'd be good.

 

[5twins]

You can also set your worm gear adjustment a little tighter. Most of us only back the adjuster screw off barely 1/8 turn from touching, not the 1/4 turn the book suggests. Also, "fan" the clutch lever as you're adjusting and tightening the worm gear screw. That is, pull it in to take up all the freeplay and release, multiple times as you're turning the screw in. Don't pull it enough to actually disengage the clutch, just enough to take up any cable freeplay. This stacks all the clutch rods and little balls together tightly, squeezing any oil out from between them. You'll get a more accurate and tighter setting this way. As you're "fanning" the lever, you'll notice that what you thought was a tight adjuster screw will turn in a bit more.

 

[scabber]

I think it would be better to use a solder on barrel for a clutch cable. If I'm not mistaken you can un solder and reuse the one on the EZ pull. Mine is the same on the adjuster not really a problem other than looks.

 

[DIRTY DOG]

what clutch leaver/perch are you uae'n sometimes that makes a dif. also make sure ypu worm gear is times right if it off one spline it makes a big dif.(ben there done that)

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hi, Glenn. Here's some more threads on that EZ-Pull cable. There's some mention that MMM recommends a different clutch lever/perch (that Dirty Dog notes) and setup to make use of his longer cable.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28705
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33418

Also, I use the adjustment method that 5Twins posted above, by screwing the handlebar adjuster all the way in, and setting the handlebar lever slack using just the worm adjustment screw.
From here: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=357879&postcount=116

 

[glennpm]

This site is the best for getting excellent help, the knowledge of the people here and great attitude!

I'm just going to summarize a bit for anyone else coming along later who is thinking about or already bought the EZ-Pull cable from "650 central".

The EZ-Pull cable is about a 1/2" longer than stock, 5.8" extended versus 5.25" stock as shown by TwoMany's picture.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=39573&d=1390206888

This extra length is noted by many experts here TwoMany, 5Twins, dirty Dog, Gary and others, to be desirable since it gets the worm lever arm in the sweet spot and assures there is enough perpendicular travel or "push" on the clutch actuation rod.

I've improved my worm gear lever arm location, stretched my return spring a bit, have two holes that can be used for additional spring return, cleaned and greased and worked the side case to get a straight shot to the worm arm following TwoMany's method with my changes shown here:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=329928&postcount=146

When I made the cable adjustments, I followed the Yamaha method, but find that the cable is too long and I only have about 1/4" of thread engagement at the clutch handle. So the fix is either shorten the cable with a new ferule end or make some kind of spacer to simulate a longer cable sheath like these:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=362801&postcount=20

... or cut part of the original cable elbow off and use it as 5Twins mentions above. Looking at it last night, I think the other end of the elbow would have to be used and I'll post pics later if I need to go that route.

The other option is to adjust the cable differently and set how that deals with the extra length like this TwoMany has written up in his last link above. I'm going to try this first.

"Starting with a cold engine:

First, adjust the handlebar cable adjuster all the way in, gets maximum slack, lengthens cable.

Then adjust the sidecover pushrod adjuster screw to get the desired handlebar lever free-play, about 1/4" - 1/2" at the lever end. Snug down the lock nut, not hard, just snug, maybe 2-3 ft-lbs, doesn't take much to hold it, and want to avoid having a stuck adjuster nut."

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Glenn, I'm not using the brass spacer/adapter. If you want it, let me know...

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=334616&postcount=12

 

[glennpm]

Thanks Steven, I'll probably take you up on that offer! I'm guessing that it may be about 1/4" thick?

Glenn

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

No, about 1/8". I'll just send it out to you anyway...

 

[glennpm]

Thanks, I sppreciate it!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Something else that you may want to check is the worm return spring. My 'ultimate' worm has the return spring arm a bit above the actual worm arm. I found that by having the return spring mounted low, it would fight against the worm's thread during final retraction. Having that return spring arm as a separate/higher location would cause the spring to work WITH the worm threads during retraction.

Look closely at the return spring arm here:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=326479&postcount=125

 

[glennpm]

Oh well, I either melted or cut mine off. I rationalized that the clutch shaft and the small out of plane force by having the spring point lower was fine. I didn't do the rigourous "scientific methods" that you did I can always add a small screw as a post to raise the anchor point.

 

[glennpm]

Okay, the 5Twins tightening method link that TwoMany provided is looking great!

I adjusted at the worm first to about 3/8" gap at the handle and then fine tuned a bit more at the handle. I have lots of thread engagement now and it looks to me that the worm lever position is starting at a good place. Had to take the side cover off anyway to try to remedy a small oil leak at the starter cover bottom dowel pin.

TooMany what do you think?

 

[5twins]

I'm never able to completely do the adjustment with just the worm gear screw, it always takes a few turns on the adjuster at the lever to finish. But you can get rid of the majority of the cable slack with the worm gear screw, and that's what you're looking to do. If you don't, you end up with the problem you encountered - the handlebar adjuster turned almost all the way out.

Another little thing I do is try to set the handlebar adjuster screw with its slot facing out or forward. That way the cable isn't snapping in and out of the slot as you pull and release the lever.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Glenn, in your 5th and 6th pic, it looks like the worm arm needs a little more retraction to full stop, maybe 0.200"?

Compare it to the second pic in the reference link in this thread's post #15, and measure/compare your clevis hole position. The idea here is to avoid overtravel of the worm arm, that is, going past a 90° angle of the worm arm. Ideally, for maximum leverage, you want the worm arm at 90° or just barely past that when the clutch lever is fully pulled-in.

That could get rid of some of your slack.

 

[glennpm]

Thanks Guys. I hear you 5Twins on the slot position. This was just to get a quick check on the gap setting. The other thing I'll do, as I do on my old Beemer, is to apply moly grease to the cable barrel. If that is left dry, it will bind and lead to broken cable strands entering the barrel.

TwoMany, I'm going to set it that way, put the case on with your brass spacer ;-) and see what I then have for handle gap. I think it will still be much better than what I started with. I forgot about that critical dimension from your testing.

Thanks!