Exhaust Wrap question?!

Nickyd

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Hey simple question about exhaust wrap. i have a 81 Xs650 SII. engine, exhaust and carbs are stock. i like the look of the wrap on the exhaust, im going for a "cafe" kinda look. if i wrap the exhaust will that affect anything? will i need to Re jet or anything like that? mess with the air fuel mixture. i heard the wrap heats up the pipes, but i mainly just want it for the look. so can i just wrap them? or are there problems i will encounter?
Thank you!
 
header wrap is supposedly said to increase exhaust velocity. don't know how that could be with a stock airbox, to get more air out, you have to let more air in. but im no genius. my bike runs exactly the same weather I have wrap on or not. Ive got unifoams, and glass packs, and rejetted 34's.
 
Ditto that. I've got wrap on all my bikes and never really noticed a difference in performance. Maybe it increases velocity by increasing pipe temp.......or maybe not...?...lol idk
 
More gimmick than anything, if it helped you would see it in racing for years now.

Its a good way to destroy good headers though, if your headers are not stainless steel, the wrap after a rain or standing water splash is a good moist/humidity trapper that will corrode heated metal in a short amount of time.
 
More gimmick than anything, if it helped you would see it in racing for years now.

Its a good way to destroy good headers though, if your headers are not stainless steel, the wrap after a rain or standing water splash is a good moist/humidity trapper that will corrode heated metal in a short amount of time.

Never had that issue either....However that is the concept behing painting them first isn't it? :shrug:
 
came across somthing intresting at the cairns swap meet,stainless exspadible exhaust wrap.exie but in the gold colour (says comes in other colours) looked good and the bloke said works really well.going to look into it further (he said for his harley cost about au$200) any body used it? (also said lasted a lot longer than wrap) going to look further into it.
 
+1 on the rust. I wrapped my stock headers simply to cover up some blemishes. After about 500 to 600 miles I removed the wrap only to find that they had already started to rust. It is my understanding that the fiberglass tends to hold moisture - even humidity in the air (and believe me - Tennessee in July is humid!). So even though I was careful not to let them get wet, they still started to turn. I ended up sanding them down really well and painting them with high temp header paint. I ran them another 200 miles or so with just the header paint then re-wrapped. Hopefully, I'll get a couple more seasons out of them.
 
what about this. How long are they supposed to smoke/steam? Damn bike looks like it is on fire
yeah. they smoke for a few. when you go ride with new header wrap, air flow is not letting it get as hot as if you just let it idle. I rode mine a few miles to get it started, then let it idle with a box fan pointed at the motor from the front , between front wheel and engine. after three times of this, no more smoke, and no more weird smell.
I use DEI, fwiw.
Oh and it has been in racing for a very long time. any little bit a bracket racer can get is worth destroying a cheap set of hookers.
 
Is there a risk of engine damage? i don't want to risk any engine failure or anything. simply just the look. i have stock air box on as of now but will want to get a better air filter soon.
 
You are way over thinking this. It's not going to effect your performance in any way. Simply there to reduce heat coming off the pipes and for looks.
 
Just install it and know it's going to fuck up your pipes so they have to stay wrapped. These motors cannot exploit all the benefit of optimised exhaust gas velocity. If you don't have over 5 k in you motor and dyno and flow bench money, you'll never know the difference, other than radiant heat. Also, it does not "speed up" the exhaust gas velocity. It keeps the velocity from dropping off with cooling, as the velocity does not drop off as fast if the temperature is kept high. It wrecks head pipes because of high temperature oxidation, which requires only air to occur. What we actually see is iron oxides (rust) from the expansion opening up the grain of the pipe, and the chrome once the expansion gets so high and air and/or moisture gets into the grain of the pipe metal. Here it is again. Working from top to bottom.
Wraps are made from Kevlar (aramid fiber) nomex and silica fiber compounds. In caging the heat inside the pipe, we get the benefit of less radiant heat from the exhaust as well.
More and more racing vehicles are using ceramic coatings now, because they are just as effective at caging the heat, seal the outside surface from high temperature oxidation, and ceramic coating requires zero maintenance. You will see some who ceramic coat AND wrap over the ceramic, but that is more to further drop radiant heat than any benefit to the motor.
 

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Thanks for the info. Once i wrap it and cook it on with the black paint. if i wanted to take it off is it easy? or once its on it on kinda thing?
out of curiosity, according to the pic you posted.. how hot would a normal exhaust on these bikes get vs how how a wrapped one?
 
That would depend on the efficiency of the exhaust and the wrap. A non-contact thermometer would tell you approximately what you have. It varies, and double walled and/or chromed pipes don't give accurate numbers with the laser thermometers, so people usually target the flange at the head. The only way to know what would be ideal for your bike would to be running it on the dyno at steady state and monitoring the air-fuel ratio. Once the air-fuel ratio was stabilized for a minute or so (with fans operating to simulate going down the road) you could take a temp measurement and consider that to be the average desireable value, but there are too many variables for absolution. If you get into the indigo colors of oxides on the un-wrapped header, it's getting pretty warm, but that don't mean much. It's exhaust, and should be hot! Trouble is, a peak temp in that range can cause the oxides on your chrome, and it won't reflect your average values. There are cylinder head temperature systems out there that are basically a thermistor ring that goes around the base of the plug. Cylinder head temp is a better indicator of what you have going than exhaust header temperature, because it's a larger heat sink and is more thermally stable than the thin-walled pipe. Many aircraft have CHT and EGT gauges so you can keep and eye on both, but and aircraft engine deals with much higher thermal stress than any of us are likely to put on a motorcycle engine. Then again, I'm and information junkie, so knowing sounds like fun to figure out one of these days. My pipes on my SV650 have been pale yellow forever, and I've been happy with that. there is a patch of blue at the exit of the rear cylinder, but that area gets saturated by flow out of the head, so I don't worry about it, just like I don't worry about my blue elbows on my XS head pipes. My SV is water cooled though, so different beast.
 
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