First new sump strainer check: confirm, please?

TeeCat

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Hi, guys...

Forgive my starting another sump filter thread, but if I'm right, I think this might actually assist some newcomers to these engines in having an idea of what a sump filter should look like... I hope! :) Last season, or the season before at the earliest, I had opened up the sump for the first time, to get an idea of engine health (I have no idea what this bike's PO(s) might or might not have done), and I recall being pleasantly surprised to see that the existing strainer did not seem to have been compromised, and I didn't find any significant debris, based on what I thought I was looking for. Still, I preemptively replaced the strainer with one from Mike's, and reinstalled the sump with a new gasket.

Since I have been monitoring a "whir" that never seems to get any worse and does not affect the bike's performance, and because I have a little bit of a fussy first gear, and because I had not dropped/checked the new sump yet, I thought I'd do that today, before I run some lighter (10W-40) oil for winter. I was very careful to drop the sump level so that it would not spill any debris that I'd hoped would not be there. Then I took the sump/filter assembly out in the sunlight and inspected it. These bikes and their sump filters being notorious for certain things, I suppose I'm just looking for confirmation of what I saw, since I am always watching for cam chain debris, etc.

Well, I saw...

... nothing. :shrug:

Here are some pics, just so you know I'm not making this up, or nuts. Now, to my comparatively inexperienced eye, the residual oil appears clean, with only trace particulates, as does the screen all around the strainer. And the strainer doesn't even really show any indication of fatigue. Maybe it's because I'm gentle with the bike and have done low, local mileage thus far.

Also, the strainer magnets look to me as if they have only trace metallic particulates that I think I'd expect to see, as on the drain plug magnets. I suppose I'm just really shocked at how tidy that whole assembly seems to be. Perhaps one of our more experienced pairs of eyes will confirm that.

Also, the new gasket (from Mike's) did not come away with the sump (I think I might have put some grease on each side, but I have not tried to remove it from the case... it will likely come right off). The sump came off VERY easily. The assembly was not leaking, so should I just reinstall the sump with the existing gasket, or use the new one that I have? I just don't want any leaks.

Anyway, I hope I'm right about how clean this appears. If so, the pics may help someone in assessing their own scenarios, such as when they acquire a bike of unknown background, etc..

Thanks, guys!

TC

Note: Eventually, I think I'll do the little preemptive JB Weld (or metal shield) reinforcement as 5twins and some others have done. Won't have time today, though.
 

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Your oil is still a transparent brown, I'd say 2-3 hundred miles on it? Do you reuse it?
No evidence of debris or the screen being deformed(maybe some in pic 4, 2nd and 3rd rib?). I think Pete called it right with the opinion most screen damage is done when you run the rpm's up while the oil is still cold/thick.
I've been lucky(?). Reused my sump gasket and drain plug washer 5-6 times this summer with no leaks.
 
looks good man. i always let my bike warm up good before i go out. early fall is when i actually got going on the streets with the bike. i would start it, then get my coat backpack helmet glasses gloves on. my screen looks like new. with a few hundred miles on it. :thumbsup:
 
Guys, received and noted! Thank you for the confirmation/input!

Yup... maybe 200 or 300 miles on that oil. I never reuse it, though.

I think the theory about still cold oil being forced through those screens has merit. I'm gentle with my bike and that may explain the screen's out-of -the-package appearance.

Might try to reuse the cardboard gasket if it appears uncompromized, though I'm not sure whether they have to compress to seal.

Thanks, guys!

TC
 
ive reused my gasket about 4 times. dont think there is a leak. i changed the shit out of my oil the first couple of months. being paranoid about stuff.
 
I'm paranoid that way too, cross. :)

Thanks... I'll reuse it if it looks okay. I think the thin smear of grease on the these sump gaskets (installed dry other than that) is a trouble saver.

TC
 
Well, she's all buttoned up with the same gasket... it looked fine. I haven't run her yet, but I'll just keep an eye out for leaks. There were none last time... should be fine.

When I was cleaning up, I did find one little tiny piece - almost a triangle - of black plastic (looks like), very thin, and barely big enough to pinch it to pull on it, and when I do, it sort of stretches and kind of wants to curl; it's not brittle. It was on a tee shirt that I have been using for a rag (I used it to pick up one of the drain plugs). Honestly, I think it may actually be a little sliver of electrical tape!

TC
 
TeeCat;

Your sump strainer is looking just fine.

It took 4 seasons riding before my stainer finally got a rip in it. I did The JB weld repair and completed 1400 kms with that repair. I just did an oil change about 2 weeks ago and found the strainer and its repair to be in good shape. I doubt if I'll have any more rips but you never know.

Oil viscosity plays a big part in the ripping of the fine screen. When I first installed the new sump strainer, I was using 15W40 oil, and guess what..............no rips in strainer. When I changed over to 20W50, I soon had a rip in the strainer. Allowing the engine, on choke, to run at 1600 or 2000 rpm with cold oil, probably contributes to a ripped strainer. Even though I only allow my engine to go up to 1300 rpm when cold, it still ripped the strainer.
 

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RG, thanks for this! I plan to keep a close eye on the stainer. Might even do the "repair" preemptively.

I have been using 20W50, but it was too hard to kick in the winter and early spring, so I just went to a lighter oil in case I ride any this winter. I make a habit of pulling my bike off the choke as quickly as possible and then setting a reasonable idle speed with the screw. Then I put my gear on and pull away as the idle starts to speed up, at which point I begin dialing it back. I have it down to a science with this old girl.

By the way... I have decided to call her Lazaria... Laz for short. It's the feminine form of Lazarus, as in "back from the dead".

TC
 
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