Thanks funky! I might have a LITTLE smoke here and there, but haven’t even done a head retorque or valve adjustment yet so I’ll cross that bridge when I’m done rewiring. As for the Pamco/e-advance system goes, i do like the logic of reliability behind it, but I’m a caveman when it comes to tech and prefer the simplicity of the points system for now. With that being said, if it starts to really act up I’ll just end up clubbing the whole system to death and going electronic anyway!
Made a bunch of progress today, finished routing and got everything nice and tidy in some braided split loom. Still waiting to hook up tail/brake until I fab up a rear fender for it to mount to, but components and switches have been tested. Here’s a before and after! Oh, and the shitty electrical tape is coming off once I get some better stuff View attachment 137147View attachment 137148 View attachment 137149View attachment 137156I also got my new emgo fuel line and visu-filters in and installed. I’ve got about 23 more feet of fuel line I might put up for the price of postage in the classifieds, give or take a few feet. Oh and before anyone gives me shit about the Chinese pleated cones, my fresh uni foam will be here tomorrow!View attachment 137151Mailman, I loosely followed your trick to adding a ground wire to the controls, but I went thru the right side control and passed it through a hole drilled in the ground contact plate, held in place using the existing bolt.View attachment 137155My headlight has been in a box since I started tear down, and I was looking at mike’s h4 conversion kits today at work. I decided to look back and see what state my light was in, and lo and behold! Just saved a few bucks thereView attachment 137152ill begin fabbing up my new rear fender this sunday. The tail/brake and plate holder will mount to it, and it will also create a small space under the seat to hide rear-end wires (and maybe some tool storage) and will be held in place by some knurled nobs to bolts running down from the seat pan. It’s almost tune’o’clock and who knows, maybe some day itll see the inside of a Walmart rattle can
Thanks dude! I’ll be stopping to pick up some 93 to tune with, since that’s what she’ll be running
Broadly available here in Marietta/Marcellus/Tully/Lafayette, thankfully....
As for myself, got from China
I got mine from amazon for $11 a piece, but they’re name-brand, which probably just means I overpaid by $4 haha
I’ll be keeping an eye out here!Broadly available here in Marietta/Marcellus/Tully/Lafayette, thankfully....
The fishermen DEMAND it here, for their outboards, if ya know what I mean....
Yeahh I would have never done that myself but the bike came with them. Kinda surprised they’re not melted already! Those plugs wires are shot but my buddy has a set of brand new ones, not sure of specs or even what to check for or how, in terms of resistance. But I’ll see him over the weekend and scoop me up, hopefully save a few bucksThat split loom cover on the plug wires may not hold up to the engine heat, it may melt. If you want to protect parts of them, retrieve the protection sleeve from an old stock plug wire .....
Hahahhaaa the old 40 lb thrust electric outboard!!The fishermen DEMAND it here, for their outboards, if ya know what I mean....
Buy it by the foot at your corner autoparts store.You don't want resistor wires, just plain copper wire core ones.
For resistance in the system, use 5K ohm NGK plug caps. Get the "F" type .....
You don't want resistor wires, just plain copper wire core ones.
For resistance in the system, use 5K ohm NGK plug caps. Get the "F" type .....
Thanks fellas. Provided these free wire/cap combos I get have a 5k ohm reading on the multimeter, they should be ok to use right? And if not, should I just chop the caps and get some ngk’s?
Yup, you're looking for approximately 5K.
