FIRST TIMER - top end re build.

In 5twins pic the notch shown goes to the left side of the engine, pointing straight up. On the opposite side of the sprocket is a dimple out by the teeth on the sprocket, this dimple is 90 degrees from the notch and sets level with the sealing surface of the head.
Leo
 
If the cylinders you bought are already bored and honed for the pistons you bought then you're ok at $200. And I have no idea where you're buying used parts that you have a receipt for or think they'd take them back. I dont know any salvage yards that offer refunds.

New pistons and rings would cost $150 at 650Direct and another $150 to bore your old cylinders.

You're at $200 and you need to spend another $60 on rings. So more or less the same deal, so long as you dont need to have the cylinders you bought bored.
 
as long as i can keep moving forward i will be happy, and as long as i can collect ei i can pay for parts. this little project is whats keeping me sane . :bike:

I'm glad that my hard earned Alberta tax dollars can pay for your BC bike rebuild.....
Must be nice to not have to work and have others pay the way...... Why don't you spend less time on the bike and more time looking for a job?
 
^^^---Haha thanks for your concen with my non bike related issue . I am on medical e.i. Because of a major head injury . Bc pays the most taxes so there. Good thing I can't drink or I wouldn't have any coin . So you can just eat my shorts if think I'm free loading. Constant migraines are not peachy .
 
^^^---Haha thanks for your concen with my non bike related issue . I am on medical e.i. Because of a major head injury . Bc pays the most taxes so there. Good thing I can't drink or I wouldn't have any coin . So you can just eat my shorts if think I'm free loading. Constant migraines are not peachy .

I didn't mean to come across as I did........my apologies! Hopefully you have a full recovery! I just rarely miss a chance to take a shot at a Canuck :D
 
^ ^ It is fine I didn't clarify, fair game. And as for the nucks, this years the the year!

As for bike stuff, I thought for certan I ordered the gasket kit. Well I didn't... I hit my head.
So now it's ordered .
- what's the best way to clean all the engin fins . And all the carbon on the inside.
I have a bucket I want to soak em in.
Any suggested soak better than vinegar ???
 
^ ^ It is fine I didn't clarify, fair game. And as for the nucks, this years the the year!

As for bike stuff, I thought for certan I ordered the gasket kit. Well I didn't... I hit my head.
So now it's ordered .
- what's the best way to clean all the engin fins . And all the carbon on the inside.
I have a bucket I want to soak em in.
Any suggested soak better than vinegar ???

I used spray on "Gunk" engine degreaser from Canadian Tire and an old toothbrush. Also a little brake cleaner to dry things off. Worked great for me.
 
Paint stripper will clean the carbon out of the heads and off the pistons. Even better is soda blasting. Jugs and head external surfaces are best cleaned by bead blasting (DO NOT bead blast the internal surfaces).
 
Been awhile . How's it going!? Getting everything back to gether now. Want to ask about the cam adjusters .

Got some replacements from mikes xs and they are way too high . Probably wont be able to fit the rocker top back on .
Some one tell me I'm out to lunch . Or where I can pick up the right ones.

Here are the pics
 
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the shorter one is the stock. the other is the mikes xs one. on the the stock i have my calliper showing the diff.
 
Get rid of those 'elephant foot' tappets. Unfortunately, most will tell you that you've wasted your time and money with them. The plastic retainer disintegrates over time etc.
 
The adjusters Mike's sells are designed to fit his rocker arms. They won't fit the stock arms without modifing the arms, cut away some of the arm for clearance.
From most of the reports I've read on the Mike's adjusters the plastic part break and the stell part falls out and can damage the engine.
If you want good elephant foot adjusters get adjusters from a Porsche. They are all steel. You do have to mod the rocker arms, but that is ok. Been working fine for many years. I've done the ones on my 75. Work great.
On the stock adjuster the ball end of the adjuster wears flat spots in it as well as pits the valve stem. A feeler gauge can't flex enough to fit into the pits or around the flatspots, this makes the clearances too wide.
The Porsche adjusters have a large flat area that contacts the valve stem. This makes adjustment easier because the feeler gauge fits between the two flat surfaces better.
The large flat sufrace of the Porsche adjuster puts less wear on the valve stem, so no pitting. Maintains the adjustment longer.
Also where the foot mounts to the stem of the adjuster collects oil. This oil acts kinda as a hydralic lifter. It absorbs some of the shock of the adjuster hitting the valve stem. This quiets the valve noise.
I've been running the 75 with them for 3 or is it 4 years now. Anyway it was one of the best mods I have done. I used to have to adjust the valves every few thousand miles. Since I did this mod I check the valve adjustments as often but have not had to adjust them.
Search the forum for how to do the mods, I'm sure it's on here somewhere, if not, I know it's over at The Garage forum.
To find the Porsche elephant foot adjusters, put them in the search on Ebay or just google it.
I got mine from PAPS Part. $3.15 each with about $12 shipping for the four. Probably cost more now, I did this a few years ago.
Leo
 
LEO thanks dude ! great info share!

i was hoping the plastic part was just for shipping or something, took one off and the foot went with it. . . decided i really didn't want these in side my engine.
i did some research last night and found just what you are talking about.

http://xs650forum.proboards.com/thread/1840/elephant-foot-tappet-mod-pics

i just didn't know where i could get the right elephant foots.
now i have a much better knowledge of the advantages .

when you take your rockers off is there any bits that need to be replaced or pressed on?
 
Removing the rockers is a pretty much straight forward process. In the head are some tubes that fit in from the bottom, they are in the hoiles the outer four studs go through. These just push down out, they are sealed with o-rings.
With the tubes out unscrew the four big caps, the ones with the phillips heads. These cover the ends of the rocker arm shafts. You will see a threaded hole in the end of the shaft. It's a 6 mm x 1.00 thread. I used some of the long bolts that hold the side cover on. Thread a bolt in the hole, pull out the shaft. It may be a snug fit, so you might need to pull firmly.
Once the shaft comes out the rocker arm comes out. Put these parts in a plastic bag and mark them so they go back in the holes they came out, leave the bolts in the shafts. That way you can't put them back in wrong.
The only parts to replace are the o-rings on the four tubes, I think they come in the gasket set.
Leo
 
well the price has gone way up since you picked em up. just googled it, checked a bunch. average price was $24 each OUCH! up to 40 . found one that were $16 ea. a set of 4 shipped to my p.o. box will be $80. going to phone a mechanic on monday see if i can get them local.
 
^ thanks ippytattoo!

ordered the same set from cb performance in CALI , they haven't shipped yet so i cancelled it. you saved me 4 hr. going to my P.O box, $3 handling fee, gass money, and as if getting these shipped to my door isn't good enough they are cheaper!

BOOYEAH!

i drained the oil the other night (note to self , drain oil prior to removing from frame . ) the drain nut was REALy on there. had a 2ft extension (handle bars) when it let loose it sent me flying. haha any way.
i was expecting to find a blown out paper sump filter; but i found a after market one . nicer than the one i got from mikes xs! more filtering surface area and a tighter screen.

another update - i am smoothing out the frame , sanding disk, and bondo . frame is ready for paint now.
 

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That's not aftermarket, it's the original. These came with metal screened filters you wash and re-use, not throw-away paper ones. And yes, I think the originals are better than the new "improved" ones.
 
aw . i just saw alot a pics of blown out paper ones and saying they were upgrading to a metal screen..

hmmm well i am abit torn as to what filter to put in now, as this STOCK metal one is better in my eyes. but i spent good money on the new one.
 
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