First XS650 Build, What to Look For

I don't understand why they build them with axle plates that are too thin. Oh wait, I see now ..... then they can sell your the extra stuff to fix THEIR problem and make more money, lol.
 
This is strange because currently with my "too thin" axle plates I'm not even able to get all the pieces in between the axles. You're saying they also need to be thicker? Maybe I'm assembling this incorrectly.
 
You add the thickness to the outside of the axle plates. It won't effect the spacing between them. When you flip your chain adjusters around, that will provide a little more space between the axle plates.
 
That's typical, welding warps the hardtail in. a piece of all thread and nuts to spread it back out so the spacers all fit correctly, check sprocket and centerline alignment then stress relieve the weld area. Plenty of guys just fuggle in whatever.
 
This is strange because currently with my "too thin" axle plates I'm not even able to get all the pieces in between the axles. You're saying they also need to be thicker? Maybe I'm assembling this incorrectly.

Hi Nick,
those chain adjusters will need spacing washers to fill the gap that's left between them and the "too thin" axle plates.
Most likely your problem is that the hardtail's wheel spacing has shrunk a bit during welding.
Check the distance between the axle plates.
As I remember, it should be 8-1/2". Use the search function to check that number.
Or if you still have the bike's swingarm, measure that.
If it's narrower than it needs to be, use your car's scissor jack to spread it back into spec.
Spread it way wide because it'll spring back a lot.
 
Ah I see. I'll get it bent to the appropriate spec and use washers to shim it. I see no need to purchase the axle plates and spend even more money having them welded on if spacers would do the job, even if somewhat less visually appealing.
 
Crazy, isn't it? It's like new cars with no spare tire, that costs extra. Or new bikes without a centerstand, that costs extra, lol.
 
I have read all of the threads and have done extensive measurements, this is what I came up with. In a perfect world, this is what you need, in this order, from the outside of the plate. Axle adjuster, 1/8" washer, axle plate, 1/16" washer, then the other side of the axle adjuster, same for the other side. Anything else and your axle adjusters will look and work like a bent up mess. The distance between the axle plates..........forget the specified 8-1/2", spread them out further than that or every assembly will be a real PITA, use the axle to pull them in with EVERY assembly and start with them spread out to more than 8-1/2" before EVERY assembly, that makes for a much nicer world to live in.

Scott

EDIT.....All of the above is for using 3/8" axle plates.
 
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Fantastic information Mr Two Wheel! Really appreciate those detailed measurements. I'll do exactly that when I set it up. You rock!

Yep, I tell you the gospel truth, instructions should include this. If you get anal about that 8-1/2"......cuss words will fly out of your mouth and precious paint and powder will be molested.

Scott
 
In post #411 I mentioned "perfect world", I came up with this simple check for the sprocket alignment after extensive measurements when using the 8-1/2" spread, stock adjusters, stock spacers, and the washer spacing that I mentioned.

Place a 8-1/2" spacer between the axle plates, secure it with clamps, all-thread or what ever it takes to hold it in place. Make a mark on this spacer 3/4" from the left side axle plate. Using a nylon string, tie it off in front of the front sprocket or have someone hold it against the most forward part of the front sprocket. Stretch the string over the 8-1/2" spacer. Move the string from left to right until it barely touches the rear of the front sprocket. You have just created a line extending the outside of the front sprocket to the spacer between the plates. This line should cross the 3/4" mark that you drew on the spacer. If the string is within 1/8" of that mark.......call it perfect..... and use the washers as I said earlier. If the string is more than 1/8" or so from the mark, some adjustments should be made with the spacers/washers, and the stock adjusters may be compromised. I suggest you check this sprocket alignment, also something that should be included with instructions.

Scott
 
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Ok guys, gave it another shot. Long delay between posts as I'm moving out from my current basement cave and need to find another space to work on my project. One of the brothers gave me a hand and let me use his garage until I get settled.

Took the advice of Mr Two Wheel and used a car jack to expand the axle plates to beyond 8.5". I also cut off the crossmember where the seat bungs will go for two reasons.

1. I wanted the seat as far back as I can get it, being that the bike is already pretty small and I have long legs
2. It made it a little easier to expand the axle plates

However, after doing so, and heeding the advice of those who pointed out I had my axle and axle adjusters backwards, I'm still in a bit of a pickle. Check out the pictures below. It believe I have it installed correctly now (though I'm missing the spacers Mr Two Wheel recommended, was just doing a light assembly for mockup) but the axle won't go through all the way and I don't know why. You'll notice the barely protruding axle threads on the left side, and the gap between the axle plate and the end of the axle on the right side. Now I know what your'e thinking, there's a gap because you don't have the spacers in there! But the gap I'm seeing is about an inch, and the spacers are 1/16 and 1/8 for a total of 3/16". Not enough to fill this gap.

What gives?

Right side
3m6zB1B.jpg


Left side
yrGiSva.jpg


From above
noruLNN.jpg


Also spent some time cleaning up the neck gusset area and grinding/sanding it down to a smooth finish, here's a few action shots
xyAv8pZ.jpg

XwfCJ9V.jpg


Starting to take shape
lERQxFY.jpg


I have to be honest though, I'm having serious doubts about being able to make the chop off. All of this is taking much longer than I anticipated.
 
Your axle adjusters are still flipped around and on backwards, and that may be the problem. The double thick side of your adjuster should be on the outside. The left adjuster differs slightly from the right one. The outside hole is a little smaller than the inside hole. It will only fit over the threaded portion of the axle, not the slightly larger diameter unthreaded portion. With the adjuster installed "flipped", your axle has stopped going in when all of the threaded portion has gone through the smaller hole.
 
Damn, still got it backwards lol. I do remember noticing that it had a smaller hole when I had it on the right side and couldn't get it through. I thought it put the smaller hole on the outer edge but I must have reversed it while fumbling with the axle. I'll try this and see if it lines up better.
 
You have the adjusters on both sides "flipped". The thicker side of the adjuster, the one that looks like it has a washer attached to it, should face the outside. There is a line etched on the top of it that you use for a reference mark when adjusting the chain. You set both sides the same distance back in the axle slot to align the wheel .....

TX750RtRrSpacer.jpg
 
Got it, will flip those around and hopefully everything will line up nicely.

On a side note, that is one shiny brake. Mine has quite a long way to go lol
 
Damn, still got it backwards lol. I do remember noticing that it had a smaller hole when I had it on the right side and couldn't get it through. I thought it put the smaller hole on the outer edge but I must have reversed it while fumbling with the axle. I'll try this and see if it lines up better.

Hi Nick,
OK, with the adjusters installed each on it's proper side of the frame and with it's double thickness side on the outside there's still another little thing to take care of.
The gaps in your adjusters are wider than your hardtail's axle plates. The gaps need to be filled by 1/8" thick spacer washers.
Both washers will need to fit over the full unthreaded part of the axle and be installed between the axle plate's outer face and the adjuster's outer double wall.
Getting the right side washer in place should be no problem.
The left side washer needs to fit around the unthreaded end of the axle as the axle's shoulder goes through it and butts against the
inner face of adjuster's outer double wall side to let the axle's threaded end go through it's smaller hole.
I'd suppose that getting that alignment right could be a chore.
 
Yeah all of that. May not matter, but my axle enters on the left side and the nut is on the right side. Use the 1/8" and 1/16" washers where I said before and you will have 8-1/2" between axle plates and your stock adjusters will work and line up well with the axle plates. Axle entering from the left and the adjuster with the small hole will be on the right, notches on the adjusters will be on the outside of the axle plates.
 
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