Frky's (Re)build

[FrkyMnky]

So this is what I am working with. You can read my old build thread here, but it was written after it was all done and I don't think I did a good job. I wanted to do this one during the build so hopefully I get more information in it for future builders. I know I learned a ton from reading other threads so I am hoping I can contribute the same.

This is where I am at now. Mocking up new wheels and tank trying to decide what route to go. Gonna throw on the mag wheels tomorrow to see how they look with the tank. Looks like a sportster tank will be on the market soon. Just need to figure out which wheels ill be getting rid of.

Thinking going with a similar color for the tins. A black cherry or brandywine color. Maybe a dark burnt orange.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Well its cold a crap for the next few days so I doubt I am getting much done. Started working on the engine tonight, opening it up for a starter. I was wanting to add a starter for running it on a stand and for those times you kill it in traffic. Also wanted the wife to be able to ride it at some point. Well, looks like that isn't going to happen. I was hoping I just needed to put the gears back in and remove the plug, but the cross shaft and gear have been removed and considering this engine was just rebuilt by Hugh and has less than 10 hours I am not tearing it apart simply to put a starter in.

Pulled the oil screens as well because last time my oil looked like this…

Thankfully, most of this wasn't metal but was non metallic from the clutch. Today the oil was much cleaner and there were very few metal shavings. Considering how new this engine is, I expect there to be a decent amount of shavings. The clutch is a 8 pack that Hugh custom made, so I think that is the reason for there being a ton of fiber in the oil. Also turns out one of the ball bearings used in the clutch was flat spotted. I was never able to find neutral once stopped, so I am sure the clutch was dragging a decent amount.

The other problem I am having is that when I turn the motor over by hand I am getting a clicking. I have no idea with it is right now, but I am hoping its the cam chain being loose. Also hope that is causing the problems I have with the monstrous kick back this engine has. Here is the link for the motor I picked up from Hugh.
http://hughshandbuilt.blogspot.com/2012/07/for-sale-rephased-xs650-hot-rod-engine.html

 

[hobodictator]

Looking good! what is that gold yamaha tank off of?

 

[xs650dreamer]

Loking good! what is that gold yamaha tank off of?

if im not mistaking its off an old dt200 enduro or AT1

 

[47flyer]

I'm interested if you don't use that Yamaha tank.

 

[Fndirtygreaser]

Wow. That's a serious motor. I would definitely stay with spoke wheels. And that gold tank looks interesting.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Not sure of which exact model the tank is off of, but its a ~70 DT250/CT1/AT1 tank.

 

[Punkskalar]

That fiber shouldn't be "normal" after a few filter cleanings, the MikesXS HP Clutch disks seem to do that for the first few runs, then settle in a bit cleaner after a while. I typically pull the side filter a few times during the break in process and clean it out. That does seem like "alot" of material however, so keep a good eye on it.

I now use EBC Clutch Disks, we haven't had much of an issue with loose fibers from them.

As for the clicking, once the engine has been broken in, you will want to adjust the camchain tensioner, and then the valves again. They run in and the cam chain is injected with grease from the factory so it will push some of that great out and loosen up. Last resort for clicking, you can pull the camchain plunger and there should be a thick copper washer between the plunger and the threaded shaft. It was not on all year models, but can be swapped over easily and make the engine a bit quiter. Performance is not affected, but a quiet engine sure does sound great.

Neutral being tough could be some of that fiber having gotten into the detent. On the top of the cases there is a Neutral Indicator Light Switch, and a Larger "Plug". Remove the plug, and with a magnet you may be able to fish out the detent and spring. CLean those up, that will help finding neutral.

Thanks for checking back in, always good to see these old bikes coming back to life...

 

[FrkyMnky]

Thanks for the reply Hugh. I greatly appreciate the help and hope to make it up that way once finished. Just hoping it warms up some this weekend so I can stand being out in the shed working on this. 18 sucks with no heat or insulation.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Mounted up the mags today. I think I will be sticking with them.

Stripped off all the old brackets except for the fender. I almost forgot how much fun black snot is.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Havent gotten a whole lot done this week with this storm that came through. Everything shuts down around here with a little snow. It turns out it was a good thing I tore it down and am rebuilding. The fender had started cracking around the mounts, so I plug welded them all back up. Im going to be adding some stiffener plates on the underside or maybe running some larger washers.

I am have a few ideas running through my head about how to mount the tank with it being raised off the backbone so much up front and being so close to the neck. Are there any serious problems with using the stock type front rubber mounts with a single bolt in the rear? I was planning on running a standard gas tank mount bracket similar to what is used on the P-Nut tank for the rear. Is that going to work or do I need to add some more bracing and a thicker bracket? Im just a little worried about the bracket cracking at the weld over a long period of time.

 

[jdizon]

Love that tank and the whole flow of the bike is on point! Great work.

Mounted up the mags today. I think I will be sticking with them.

Stripped off all the old brackets except for the fender. I almost forgot how much fun black snot is.

 

[Brownlee]

I like where this is going. What tires are you using here?

 

[FrkyMnky]

Love that tank and the whole flow of the bike is on point! Great work.

Coming from you after seeing your builds means a lot. I have two weeks off so I am hoping to get most of it done by then. Then send the tins off to Mike at Visual Impact to paint for me.

The tires are Cooker Firestone replicas. Little expensive for tires but I love the look and they ride decent. They are a little heavy though.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Never thought I would see tank cups on the front of my bike again, but here they are. After looking at a few ways to mount the tank, using the stock rubbers seemed to make the most sense.

I had to mount the tank up a little higher than I would have liked in order to clear the oil tube banjo bolts, however it lines up pretty nice with the top triple.

And finally the view from the drivers seat.

 

[FrkyMnky]

Ive been pretty busy for the last week or so and have gotten pretty close to finishing up the build. Redid the fender mounts as I didn't account for leather washers the first time.

Here are the left controls. Gonna be running a foot clutch and hand shift. Waiting on a knob to mount onto the shifter and then that will be done.

Here is what I came up with for clutch linkage. Does anyone see any problems with this? Because of the gear selector I had to put some angle into it so it would miss when actuated. I will be welding clevis ends on and some M8 all thread in the middle to adjust it. Didn't want to go that far as Im not sure if this will even work.

Finished up the tank mount. Welding onto 24ga sucks.

Also got the rear master mounted.

 

[neanderthal]

coming along nicely man. dig your style and work. keep it going!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Here is what I came up with for clutch linkage. Does anyone see any problems with this? Because of the gear selector I had to put some angle into it so it would miss when actuated. I will be welding clevis ends on and some M8 all thread in the middle to adjust it. Didn't want to go that far as Im not sure if this will even work.

Hey, Frky, looks like you're having fun. Just some info for your clutch project:

Your linkage rod may hit the shroud/shield that fits over the shift shaft, if you're running it.

It takes about 7 ft-lbs torque to rotate the clutch worm, so expect at least 60 lbs tension in that rod.

Worm rotation translates to 0.0035" of pushrod travel per degree of worm rotation.

You'll want at least 0.060" pushrod travel, about 17°-18°.

For a 1.5" worm arm length (worm center to clevis hole center), will need at least 0.45" rod pull.

Exceeding 30° worm rotation may cause the seal cup to contact the engine case.

Since you're pulling the worm to the rear, you won't have the strength of the worm body mounts, which are vertically aligned. You can reduce this 'tipping' moment by moving the worm arm more inline with the worm body.

Enjoy!

 

[FrkyMnky]

Hey, Frky, looks like you're having fun. Just some info for your clutch project:

Your linkage rod may hit the shroud/shield that fits over the shift shaft, if you're running it.

It takes about 7 ft-lbs torque to rotate the clutch worm, so expect at least 60 lbs tension in that rod.

Worm rotation translates to 0.0035" of pushrod travel per degree of worm rotation.

You'll want at least 0.060" pushrod travel, about 17°-18°.

For a 1.5" worm arm length (worm center to clevis hole center), will need at least 0.45" rod pull.

Exceeding 30° worm rotation may cause the seal cup to contact the engine case.

Since you're pulling the worm to the rear, you won't have the strength of the worm body mounts, which are vertically aligned. You can reduce this 'tipping' moment by moving the worm arm more inline with the worm body.

Enjoy!

This is why I love this site so much. I really appreciate the rod pull length as I was pulling my hair out today trying to find that. I planned for much more with the way I bent the clutch rod, so I may go back and straighten it out some to get a better feel and pull angle.

Do you see any problems with the rod the way it is? I know a z isn't ideal, but I don't have the knowledge to figure out how much extra stress will be on that rod when compared to a straight pull. BTW, its a 5/16 solid rod.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yeah, 'Z's aren't ideal, but work fine in car door linkages. 5/8" rod will flex, but I don't think it'll be a problem, could gusset it later if it needs it, after trying it out.

Plan on 0.5" - 0.6" travel for that rod, figure leverage ratios appropriately for your pedal. If you want 3" pedal travel, figure a 5-6 lever ratio, ...etc.

To save overstressing the worm, and avoid overtravel, could design-in a travel stop.

I like your linkage idea, gets rid of that goofy cable...