Front Cam Chain Guide / Guide Stopper

I've never found the plastic worn through, just falling off. What does get knocked off is that little plastic ridge down both sides but I'm not sure you need that.
 
5twins said:
I've never found the plastic worn through, just falling off. What does get knocked off is that little plastic ridge down both sides but I'm not sure you need that.
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I've got over 50K on the engine. My last oil change found the filter full of aluminum. The sump was clean. I assume it's the cam chain guide. It looks to me as though it's enough trouble to fix that maybe I should just freshen up the whole thing. I have a spare engine sitting on the floor.

I know that gasoline will dissolve JB Weld, so I don't think I'd use it as a suitable bonding agent. I really wouldn't have a clue what to use.
 

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I repaired one of my petcocks that was leaking several years ago using JB Weld. So far, it's holding.
 
5twins said:
So far, it's holding.
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Yep, I'm sure it is. I bought an XS1100 that had a broken float post in the carburetor. It was repaired with JB Weld by the looks of it. I was not aware of the repair until it failed. In my case, the stuck float caused a fire and a lot of damage. I don't know how long it lasted, but I'm sure the repair was good for several years. In the end, the repair succumbed to the gasoline. JB is great stuff, but I won't be using it where it is exposed to gasoline or oil.

I know there are many controversial opinions about this. Lots of folks say it works, others don't. My mind is made up. No need to try to convince me otherwise. :)
 
i can tell you right now JB holds up fine to oil....most of the sump filter repairs involve it. 5 years on my sump filter with jb, rock hard still as of last month when I checked. Gasoline is correct though, no go.

You might be a bit waiting for results of my cam chain guide....Cracked the cases on my spare project motor, 3rd gear blown out, and one of the shift forks has a pad ground down pretty good....and it needs rods, which I do have...just need to have someone change them. I just spent a bunch of cash getting my wifes 93 klr250 up to my exacting standard. so this motor will be a slow go.


so far though, this JB repair on the guide seems Very solid, no hesitation...ill use it,
 
Oh, gawd, I'm on my smartphone, can't type much. Been working on another project that involves "bonding aluminum to steel". Major issues. Do a google search on that phrase. Seems jb-weld doesn't bond well to aluminum, a passive metal. 3M 08115 has better success, but $$ expen $ ive $$. Automakers are aggressively pursuing this, to lighten cars, to comply with 2025 cafe 55 mpg requirements...
 
Pull the sump and side oil screens look for long chunks of black "rubber" and or lots of aluminum shavings,
 
No, but if it is the original part, chances are it needs replacing. I haven't found a good original yet.
 
yea it is oe. ima tare into it when i get the money together to powder coat the frame. im getting the parts together for a rebuild the front guide is the last parts besides the actual pistons, kinda sucks cause bike has good compression haha
 
If your compression is good why not leave the pistons in the bore when you replace the guide?
 
well i was, but i dont want to worry baout how long the stock pistons have left. i also have a 256 cam i wanna put together with 4th over sized pistons and high comp gasket as well as over sized valves
 
I just received an order from Mike's that included a cam chain guide/stopper (make in China obviously). This thing is not at all like the original. The rubber/plastic, is very soft !!! Also as mentioned somewhere else on the board. The tapped mounting holes are off center and the threads look like crap. "I'm afraid to use it !!" Just looks like trouble to me. I'm going to bite the bullet and use one of the OEM replacements. About $65 but they are readily available and hopefully of a reasonable (Useable) quality.


The last thing I want to do is tear into my fresh rebuild after a few hundred miles to replace an inferior "new" part. Pardon my ranting but I just wanted to let you guys know what you already probably know. THESE THINGS ARE STILL JUNK. DON'T WASTE YOUR $$$.


Still waiting for someone to come up with a way to reliably repair these things. I have an Idea or two but not going to take the time to mess with it right now.


Good luck to ya'all
Thanks
 
Carbon, whats up with the $23 guide? Seems like that guy has a lot of stuff.
 
is it only necessary to replace the front guide if the plastic is separating from the aluminum? mine is original with 17,000km and is intact but has some wear/hearline age cracking. same with the rear tensioner arm, does anyone ever replace these? also only due to separation of materials?
 
fox23 said:
is it only necessary to replace the front guide if the plastic is separating from the aluminum? mine is original with 17,000km and is intact but has some wear/hearline age cracking. same with the rear tesionern arm, does anyone ever replace these? also only due to separation of materials?
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If you are in there I would replace it with a new one.
Wouldn't You feel bad if you put it back together and that old piece of plastic came off in a few thousand miles
I replaced chain, guide, and tensioner when I went in
 

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