How do I know if my front forks are bad? They seem to travel allot and float. I can sit on the bike and push down about 3 inches or so. Also how important are the rubber spacers attaching the handlebars to the forks?
Thanks
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FrOnt forks and handlebars
- Thread starter Tripper
- Start date
Your forks should be fine if you give them a complete servicing (disassembly, cleaning, new seals if needed, refill with fresh oil). The way these bikes vibrate, I like the rubber mounted handlebars - so yes, the rubber is important.
hi guys ,,, well my front forks had nothing done for 8 years i owned my bike ,,,,but it used toooo dive under brakes ,,, now i an fussy about flushing you forks and new spring ,,,my 1976 xs650 has progressive spring with new bel ray 10wt oil its an easy job toooo flush out the forks so do them and watch the crap come out of them ...regards oldbiker
WannabeMike96
xs650 birdbox challenge. help me.
Hey 5T! I got new seals and bel ray oil for my forks (just came in the mail) I wanted to clean my forks out after I drained the old fluid. Any good way to clean without removing the tubes from the lowers?
In my opinion no, not really. You can flush them with solvent like kerosene, but the drain plugs aren't at the very bottom. Sludge built up down there below the drains may not rinse out. And they do get pretty dirty inside from years of no oil changing and dirt working it's way in through the seals. Also, forks don't get hot in operation like the engine does so there's no "get it hot first before draining" benefit to be had here. But, if you've got new seals to put in, you have to separate the lowers from the tubes anyway.
When I have these apart, I physically swab the insides out with rags dipped in solvent and a little fork cleaning "special tool" I made. It is nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a small eye bent in one end. I thread a rag through the eye, wrap it around the rod, dip it in solvent, and insert it into the lower like a ramrod. It gets the inside clean as a whistle. I do the tubes too .....
When I have these apart, I physically swab the insides out with rags dipped in solvent and a little fork cleaning "special tool" I made. It is nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a small eye bent in one end. I thread a rag through the eye, wrap it around the rod, dip it in solvent, and insert it into the lower like a ramrod. It gets the inside clean as a whistle. I do the tubes too .....
B_Crabaugh
XS650 Addict
WannabeMike96
xs650 birdbox challenge. help me.
You're going to need another little "special tool". The bolts that hold the damper rods in the lowers are installed with sealer and thread locking compound on them. They won't spin out freely once broken loose, they'll just spin the whole damper rod in the lower .....
If your forks are '78 or newer, the tops of the damper rods have what resembles a 12 point socket formed on them that takes a 17mm hex of some sort. I weld a 17mm nut to a bolt and fit it down into the tube on a bunch of extensions .....
If your forks are '78 or newer, the tops of the damper rods have what resembles a 12 point socket formed on them that takes a 17mm hex of some sort. I weld a 17mm nut to a bolt and fit it down into the tube on a bunch of extensions .....
My opinion, if the seals don't leak, or your not modifying or kitting the fork, don't disassemble it. Just flush and refill. Flushing is easy, Remove the drain screw on the side, hold the front brake on and pump the front up and down till no more oil squirts out. Put bike on center stand, remove one cap at a time, pour in the requisite amount of oil and replace the cap. If you feel the bike is too spongy try the next higher weight/viscosity oil
These 35mm forks benefit greatly from about one ounce more oil than the spec. Stock amount is 169cc (5.71 oz.). I do 6.5 to 7 ounces, 6.5 if it's just a drain and fill, 7 if the forks were stripped and totally dry inside. I just use the recommended 10wt. oil, never found the need for anything thicker.
