Have you had the turn signals functioning previously?Started her up, tried the turn signal - and nada.
Yup, good call 5twins..missing something obvious here? There are no turn indicators yet on the back,
I’ll check. I didn’t know about the flasher. Thx, rsor.Flasher? Connection looks good, unless the ground is bad further along the wiring?
Don’t know, will ask PO. I’ll take the tank off and have a look at the flasher unit. I assume there is a good post somewhere on XS650 about how to do this? Truly a newbie with this stuff...Have you had the turn signals functioning previously?
The flasher unit is under the tank. Originals still work for me but do require descent voltage and clean connections. If your charging is weak or low battery, losing turn signal function is one of the first signs of that.
Good idea. Will do - as soon as I get the tank off. Thx.Unplug the flasher and replace it with a jumper wire. That will give you a steady source of current so you can chase down your wiring problems.
Definitely need a multimeter. Can you recommend a brand/model? I’m sure I will become good friends with this tool as I try to understand the wiring on this bike. Are there XS650 posts on the use of a multimeter that you could recommend? Thx, grizld1.+1 to all of the above. The multimeter is your friend. If you don't have one, get a good one; cheap ones aren't very accurate on low resistance readings, and chances are you'll need that for trouble shooting the charging system sooner or later. Check continuity of ground connections and voltage in on the signal lights and flasher.
Both signals are hooked up. Don’t know the wattage of each bulb, but MikesXS “says” that the lights are compatible with my bike. That said, the lights don’t come on or flash. Thank you, 5twins.The flasher unit is designed to power two signal lights at a time. If you only have one hooked up, it's not going to work. The one signal may come on but it won't flash. The flasher is also designed to work with original bulb wattages (27 watts each I think) so if your new signals differ, they won't flash.
Yes, I heard back from the PO, and the flasher unit was removed. This is part #2FO-83350-70-00, Flasher Relay Assembly, right? The little tin can. Is the Flasher Cancelling Unit (part# 1A0-83395-03-00 also something that I need?By two signal lights, I mean two on one side, left or right, not two on the front (or rear) only. When you activate the turn signal switch, it sends power to the two left or two right signals.
If the bike had no signals when you got it then maybe the P.O. removed the flasher unit as well. As mentioned, you'll need to remove the tank to check on that. The original was a little tin can mounted between the coils.
Fluke's are quiet expensive, but they are the Starret's of the electrical world.... the standard to beat. If I were looking for a meter I could pack along, I'd give this one a serious look. About the only down side to it I see is it won't measure current.... but I can't remember the last time I was looking at current stranded on the side of the road... so that's really not a deal breaker. I ever decide I need a "baby meter," this would be the one I'd go for.Re. meters, I have two: an Equus 3340a that stays home and a Sperry ADM-18A that goes along on longer trips. Neither one is currently produced. I prefer an instrument that has a low resistance range of RX10 ohms, but a quality meter with a low ohm range of RX200 can be accurate enough where we need it to be; it just needs to tell you if a 2.5 ohm ignition coil or a 5 ohm alternator rotor has lost resistance. You should be able to find a meter that will do the job in the $50 range. (Warning: the Chinese have infringed Fluke's trademark and produced a pocket meter that's a guaranteed POS. It's not even a knockoff of a Fluke product, they just stole the name. Those things appear on Amazon and E-bay, probably elsewhere as well. Caveat emptor.)
Found the flasher relay (two actually) in the box of parts I got from the PO. He’s pretty sure the one on the left still works. I’ll try it out once I pull the gas tank. Don’t really care about self-cancelling feature. I can do that myself. Thanks for your help, 5twins.Yes, that's the flasher but if you've looked it up, you'll see the replacement they now sell (with a new part number) is big, stupid money, lol. You can use an automotive unit instead that only costs a few dollars.
No, you don't need the auto-cancelling unit, but the signals won't automatically turn themselves off without it. But, the unit is very hit and miss, only working some of the time. Also, it won't work at all with a cheap auto flasher. But like I said, even if you got one, it only works some of the time anyway. You end up having to cancel the signals yourself by pressing the button in.
Flutes are good.Fluke's are quiet expensive, but they are the Starret's of the electrical world.... the standard to beat. If I were looking for a meter I could pack along, I'd give this one a serious look. About the only down side to it I see is it won't measure current.... but I can't remember the last time I was looking at current stranded on the side of the road... so that's really not a deal breaker. I ever decide I need a "baby meter," this would be the one I'd go for.
This isn't one of the Chinese knockoff's is it Dick?
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