Front wheel bearings

[Doug79]

Anybody got a secret way to get the bearings out of a mag wheel? The inner spacer tube is the exact same size as the inner race so even my blind bearing puller won't grab tight enough to get it out. I am about ready to weld a bolt to the inner race and hook on with a slide hammer. Im thinking there may be a more civilized way to get out out.

 

[gggGary]

the inner spacer is only kept centered by a light ring at it's middle point, tapping sideways on a long bar inserted most of the way to the other side will push the spacer off to one side enough to let you get your drift on the edge of the inner bearing race. Heat is your friend, aluminum expands more than steel get the hub good and warm and the bearings "nearly" fall out. I set the hub on my wood stove for a few minutes wear gloves easy peasy.

 

[XSLeo]

On the front you should be able to push the inner sleeve side enough to get a punch on the inner bearing race and drive it out.
The inner sleeve should have a hole in it, use a rod with a point bent to engage this hole then drive on the rod. This pushes the sleeve on the bearing to remove.
On the rear the drive side bearings has a top hat shaped bushing. This bushing stes against the sleeve, drive on the bushing to drive the sleeve to drive out the bearing. Once out save this bushing. Now drive out the other bearing.
These get removed the same as the spoke wheels. The repair manual explains it. You do have a repair manual don't you?
Leo

 

[Doug79]

Of corse I have a shop manual! In fact I have two, one Haynes and one genuine Yamaha...........Are those meant to be read?? Who knew?

 

[5twins]

I think Yamaha may have stopped putting the removal hole in the side of the center spacer on the later models. But you can add one once it's out for future use if you like. Then all that's required is that you fabricate up a bent rod to use on it .....

 

[gggGary]

Of corse I have a shop manual! In fact I have two, one Haynes and one genuine Yamaha...........Are those meant to be read?? Who knew?

Mighty handy if you need a bit more height under the center stand.............

So that's what the hole is for!!!! special tool(s) on the way. Since it's driving against the inner race this still destroys the bearing on the way out.
The 2 front, 2 rear hubs on the bench all have the hole in the spacer one rear is a 79 others are all early. <77??
Since you can't easily measure that hole in situ it's ~5/16"

 

[5twins]

Yes, there's no way around possibly damaging the first bearing you drive out. I think I used 3/8" rod for my tool, end ground and filed to fit the hole.

 

[Doug79]

I finally got mine out. I was unable to get the sleeve to move far enough to get a bite on the bearing with a drift. since I knew I wasn't going to reuse the bearings I ended up welding a bolt head to the inner race and used my slide hammer to get it out then drove the other one out with a brass drift. They did put up a fight. The good news is they are a very common 6303 bearing with a single shield. I searched SKF bearings and should be able to pick them up at the local bearing house for about $6 or 7.00. I am a bit puzzled as to why they installed one with the shield out and the other with the shield facing in.

 

[gggGary]

"one with the shield out and the other with the shield facing in."
The LH bearing shares it's grease with the speedometer drive.

 

[5twins]

Use 2RS (double shielded) bearings and grease the speedo drive independently. I also like to check and add more grease to new bearings if needed. They say they're lubed for life but many times they have very little grease in them. I fill them no more than half way (fill one side only). Any more than that just oozes out and makes a mess.

 

[Doug79]

"one with the shield out and the other with the shield facing in."
The LH bearing shares it's grease with the speedometer drive.

Ahh yes, another piece of info that is probably in the [unread] shop manual. Thanks Gary.