1. Dismiss Notice
  2. Dismiss Notice
  3. Hey Facebook people... We've created a group for XS650.com members to connect. Check it out!
    Dismiss Notice

Front wheel binding when tightening castle. Xs650f

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by cafetools, Feb 13, 2019.

  1. cafetools

    cafetools XS650 Addict

    186
    157
    43
    Utah
    79f standard, single disc, new pads, brake caliper piston moves freeley.

    I am using the speedo, that fits fine, I put my axle through my wheel and forks. I notice on the right (caliper side) there is a 4mm gap between the lower fork.

    When I go to tighten the castle nut I can see the lower fork tube move inward closing the gap. But as I am even finger tightening the castle nut the front wheel binds up and will not spin!

    So I can't tighten it without binding, I decided to finger tighten it and put the cotter pin in. I apply front brake and tighten fork tube bolts. I go ride the bike around the block and it makes a grinding noise off and on and it actually gouged my rotor and I see metal dust after I'm done.

    Are my fork tubes bent? Am I missing a part?
     

    Attached Files:

    Jim likes this.
  2. You tighten the castle nut before you snug the nuts on the bottom of the left fork, correct?
     
    Jim likes this.
  3. mrtwowheel

    mrtwowheel Honda Etched On Brain Top Contributor

    What is rubbing on the rotor, the caliper or the lower fork leg?:popcorn:

    DON"T RIDE THAT BIKE !!!!!!!!

    Scott
     
    Jim likes this.
  4. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    You have a 79F 35mm forks, how come the rotor is off the 73-76 34mm forks
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  5. Good catch!
     
    Paul Sutton likes this.
  6. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    Ding, ding, ding we have a winner!
     
    Paul Sutton and Jim like this.
  7. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    This is where you Fu**ed up.............The front wheel you bought.........Post #21 in your build thread, is for a 34mm fork with the 34mm rotor and you are using it with the 35mm Caliper and they don't work as a pair............Need to install the original Rotor that came with the bike
    [​IMG]
     
    Paul Sutton, Jim and gggGary like this.
  8. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
    Jim and gggGary like this.
  9. Jim

    Jim "No...Try not. Do ... or do not. There is no try." Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    Good catch Doug.... and Gary... looks bent to me too.

    IMG_20190213_085719.jpg
     
  10. cafetools

    cafetools XS650 Addict

    186
    157
    43
    Utah
    Good catches guys. *scratches head* it looks like I'll swap my rotor, then figure out if my tubes bent and how to address that.

    If the rotor is 1mm to big in diameter maybe it was grinding on the inside of the caliper That explains metal shavings.
     
    Jim likes this.
  11. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    Swap the original rotor in and retry ..............I wouldn't worry to much about a bent fork yet...If it binds again then maybe further investigations are called for.....

    gggGary has a good post, (somewhere), showing how to check for bent forks and just about all of these old XS's have some bend in them due to their age. Having just the one rotor brakes does put a twisting stress on to the front forks...........If it is minor then it is a matter of turning and aligning the fork so it is parallel to the other fork and the bend faces to the rear.......
     
    Paul Sutton and gggGary like this.
  12. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    It is the rotor offset that is different.
     
    Paul Sutton and gggGary like this.
  13. cafetools

    cafetools XS650 Addict

    186
    157
    43
    Utah
    Thanks for catching the disc rotor swap interchangeablity (albeit a few months late) , that is actually good news to hear because that could very well be the solution!
     
    gggGary likes this.
  14. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

  15. cafetools

    cafetools XS650 Addict

    186
    157
    43
    Utah
    Another question before working on this front end tomorrow. Should I be trying to close the gap on the rotor side? Possibly by rotating fork tubes? Or is some gap normal?
     
  16. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    Ha, ha, .........Gates open and the horse has bolted ....and problem soved..... but to be fair i did post the year of the XS650 that those wheels fitted in post #24
     
  17. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    Don't look for problems until you find one..........change the rotor, then see
     
  18. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! Top Contributor XS650.com Supporter

    No gap,all the parts are held stationary when the large section of the axle draws everything up tight to the RH fork tube. Gotta be tight (to torque spec).

    changed LH to RH
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
  19. 650Skull

    650Skull Dinosaur Lives Top Contributor

    I don't sign in every day unless i see something i want to add to..............Just realized you thread is posted through the clubhouse so it isn't available unless your signed in...............That's why i missed your question about the wheels..........
     
    Machine likes this.
  20. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    16,973
    6,108
    688
    I'm pretty much positive the front wheel you have there is from a TX750. As far as I know, it was the only one with both a D.I.D. flanged alloy rim AND that alloy cover for the left disc mount. A '73 TX650 also used that alloy cover but it's wheel rim was chromed steel, not alloy. If both the wheels you got are like this then boy, you scored big time. Personally, I'd be going back to that scrap yard and looking for the matching rears, lol. The TX750 rear wheel is a nice upgrade for the 650. It bolts right in and has a bigger brake. This is one on the right, next to a stock 650 rear on the left .....

    [​IMG]

    Yes, your clearance and binding issues are due to not changing the disc. The early 2 piece disc on your "new" wheel has a different offset than the later one piece disc. It is offset 5mm more .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tightening the axle will pull the disc towards and bind it against the outer side of the brake caliper. The stepped end of your axle acts as the spacer on the left side. Tightening the axle nut while the axle clamp on the left fork lower is still loose pulls the axle through just the right amount to push the wheel over against the right fork leg. You should end up with a small amount of the axle shoulder showing between the fork leg and speedo drive .....

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page