Glass fuses vs plastic blade types?

[TeeCat]

Hi, guys.

A PO had installed a plastic spade-type 20-amp fuse/holder where the original one was, which I suppose was like this replacement from Mike's:

He had just twisted the wires together and taped over them, but I repaired his work by soldering male connectors on his blade-type holder, basically reproducing what's in the above pic (with his holder) but before I knew Mike had replacements. It seems to work fine, and it's neater and safer, I suppose.

But should I get an original replacement from Mikes, as in the pic? And if so, will it accommodate one of the 20-amp glass fuses there? Or is it not really worth bothering with?

TC

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

if it works use it..

you can buy an inline fuse holder at the auto parts store for only a couple bucks.

 

[TeeCat]

Thank you, sir.

Is there any advantage of one fuse type over the other, or no?

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

i'm not sure of any differences. i use glass fuses and i keep a box of extra ones in my tool bag.. haven't blown one yet

 

[Hairyblackdude]

Im always weary of those glass "tube" style fuses.. They just dont seem too tough to me, I had instances where the fuse looks totally fine, but it broke off inside the end cap, so it can kinda trick ya... takes a tester to tell...

Im just going to use a regular mini ATC fuse like in most cars.. They arent as sleek as those styles, but they are extremely common & easy to read... Plus, if you blow one somewhere & dont have any spares, you can break into the nearest car & steal them from the fusebox !!

 

[Teebs]

It's good to know I'm not the only one who's done that...

 

[gentlemanjim]

Separate fuse holderss with spade automotive style fuses work for me.

 

[XSLeo]

Over the years I have found the glass fuses can be unreliable. As Hairyblackdude mentioned, the element can come loose or burn out in the endcap and look good but be crap.
The clips that hold the fuse get weak as they age. A weak clip wont grip the cap tight, this causes extra resistance in the connection. This extra resistance causes heat, further weaking the clip. The extra heat can unsolder the elements from the end caps. The extra resistance can increase the amp draw in the circuit. This can blow the fuses and draw more on a marginal charging system.
The clips used in the single fuse holders as used on the older bikes are a better design than the 4 fuse holders used on the later bikes. The single fuse holder has the wire springs around the clips. This is a much stronger design.
If I was building a 100 point restoration I would use the stock fuses and holders. On a rider I will use the blade type fuses and holders.

 

[skyhawk04kilo]

What about the ceramic fuses that are the same shape and dimensions as the glass fuses? Are they any more reliable than the glass ones?

 

[TeeCat]

Over the years I have found the glass fuses can be unreliable. As Hairyblackdude mentioned, the element can come loose or burn out in the endcap and look good but be crap.
The clips that hold the fuse get weak as they age. A weak clip wont grip the cap tight, this causes extra resistance in the connection. This extra resistance causes heat, further weaking the clip. The extra heat can unsolder the elements from the end caps. The extra resistance can increase the amp draw in the circuit. This can blow the fuses and draw more on a marginal charging system.
The clips used in the single fuse holders as used on the older bikes are a better design than the 4 fuse holders used on the later bikes. The single fuse holder has the wire springs around the clips. This is a much stronger design.
If I was building a 100 point restoration I would use the stock fuses and holders. On a rider I will use the blade type fuses and holders.

Thanks Leo et al... looks like I'll be staying with the spade type 20 amp. So far, that's one of the only good decisions the PO made, though even then I had to sort out his fly-by-night wire twists and tape-overs...

Still, though, knowing that a slight breeze can take out this main fuse and kill the bike at speed just frankly gives me the creeps. Love to have a way around that...

TC

 

[XSLeo]

I haven't had much experience with the ceramic fuses outside of micro wave ovens and stereo eguipment. The don't get the same conditions as the fuses in our 650's.

 

[Travis]

Yep.. stick with the blade style auto fuses.. I can't say I've seen any newer motorcycles or cars with glass fuses.. (only a few scooters). There must be a reason everyone is using the blade fuses.

 

[xjwmx]

I've seen old glass tube fuses where the metal caps on the ends were no longer glued to the tubes. Makes it very fragile...fusewise.

 

[TeeCat]

Man... I'm glad I asked! Thanks, all!

 

[Sundie]

i use one of these with good results. I find it's easier than carrying around a spare fuse. However, riding a standard with exactly one fuse makes it easy.