osteoderm
out of the box
Not too much there to report, I'm afraid! I've been cranking busy at work, with not as much time to play as I'd like! But don't worry; I'll update the thread the minute there's anything to report!
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Not too much there to report, I'm afraid! I've been cranking busy at work, with not as much time to play as I'd like! But don't worry; I'll update the thread the minute there's anything to report!
osteoderm
out of the box
Spent a morning cleaning up the welds:
It's quite a ways from "perfect", but I'm creeping up on an acceptable surface finish!
It's quite a ways from "perfect", but I'm creeping up on an acceptable surface finish!
pregrid
XS650 Guru
Man. i'm sorry but that looks pretty good from here. Who do you yhink you are, me?
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Damn Derm, you do some impressive work!
Johnt3
Still learning...
Man! That's some ugly work yer doing there.
As always mighty fine workmanship.
As always mighty fine workmanship.
osteoderm
out of the box
I'm not really going for "perfect" 
Maybe more something like "post-perfect". My favorite aluminium surface-finish is what I'd call "old polish"; the sort of smooth yet not super-shiny luster you'd get on some part that was polished perfectly some years ago, then left on a shelf in a damp unheated garage for a few decades, maybe knocked around a bit, then finally burnished to remove the worst oxidation with a little steel wool...
What I'd ultimately like from this hub is to have a wheel that looks like a stock '70's part, with period-correct style and finish, with performance mods that don't immediately jump out as "modern". Of course, I'd never expect an educated eye to be fooled into thinking that Yamaha made a hub like this in the '70's, but it's still fun to play with people's perceptions of "vintage".
Maybe more something like "post-perfect". My favorite aluminium surface-finish is what I'd call "old polish"; the sort of smooth yet not super-shiny luster you'd get on some part that was polished perfectly some years ago, then left on a shelf in a damp unheated garage for a few decades, maybe knocked around a bit, then finally burnished to remove the worst oxidation with a little steel wool...What I'd ultimately like from this hub is to have a wheel that looks like a stock '70's part, with period-correct style and finish, with performance mods that don't immediately jump out as "modern". Of course, I'd never expect an educated eye to be fooled into thinking that Yamaha made a hub like this in the '70's, but it's still fun to play with people's perceptions of "vintage".
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Will widening that hub cause a need for spokes with a different angle/length at the hub ends so that they clear the outer hub edge and also to line up with the wheel centerline?
osteoderm
out of the box
I've always assumed with this project that the spokes would be a custom job. Besides the points you're raising, there's also the issue that this hub, in stock form, was never laced to an 18" hoop; there's no baseline spoke to work with.
osteoderm
out of the box
Another happy Saturday playing in the shop...
All day long making shavings out of blocks of billet 6061T6. It never fails to amaze me how the time flies when you're watching the chips fly... And after a whole day, one piece 1/2 done, one piece of billet yet to go "under the knife".
Bonus points galore to the first correct guess as to what I'm making here...
All day long making shavings out of blocks of billet 6061T6. It never fails to amaze me how the time flies when you're watching the chips fly... And after a whole day, one piece 1/2 done, one piece of billet yet to go "under the knife".
Bonus points galore to the first correct guess as to what I'm making here...
jdizon
XS650 Guru
Front wheel to rear conversion kit from the looks.
Another happy Saturday playing in the shop...
All day long making shavings out of blocks of billet 6061T6. It never fails to amaze me how the time flies when you're watching the chips fly... And after a whole day, one piece 1/2 done, one piece of billet yet to go "under the knife".
Bonus points galore to the first correct guess as to what I'm making here...
osteoderm
out of the box
That's a reasonable guess, but I already have one of those... This is something above/beyond that.
jdizon
XS650 Guru
Your own hub?
captain awesome
wearer of underwears
Cush drive?
osteoderm
out of the box
We have a winner! Yup, cush drive it is.
Johnt3
Still learning...
Cush drive! Man, your getting pretty crafty there osteoderm!
osteoderm
out of the box
Another day in the shop, left to my own devices... First item was to bore out one side of the hub to accept a 52mm bearing:
The 19" conversion kit I have (Omar's) uses three 42x20x14mm bearings; one on the brake side, and two on the drive side. The stock rear hub uses a single 52x20x15mm bearing on the drive side. Widening the hub has spread my bearing base 5/8", so I'm going with a single bearing on the drive side, and in the stock size.
The cush drive has two basic elements: a drive flange that bolts to the hub and carries the cush elements, and a sprocket carrier that rides on the axle with a dedicated bearing, and engages the cush elements.
With the 52x20x15mm bearing in the hub, the drive flange is fit. In this shot, I've already drilled and counterbored for the M8 truss-head bolts that will hold the flange to the hub. The larger holes are for the six 1" polyurethane cush elements.
With the thirteen precision bores done (6 bolts, 6 cush elements, and 1 hubcentric bore), I can get onto the creative bit
For fun, style, and some weight reduction. There's still enough meat left for plenty of strength, but I think any more drilling and this piece will get impossible to clean! One more shot, bolted onto the hub:
Today I also took the other remaining 6"x6"x1" billet down to a faced 5" disc. That will will become the sprocket carrier, and will remain for another post!
The 19" conversion kit I have (Omar's) uses three 42x20x14mm bearings; one on the brake side, and two on the drive side. The stock rear hub uses a single 52x20x15mm bearing on the drive side. Widening the hub has spread my bearing base 5/8", so I'm going with a single bearing on the drive side, and in the stock size.
The cush drive has two basic elements: a drive flange that bolts to the hub and carries the cush elements, and a sprocket carrier that rides on the axle with a dedicated bearing, and engages the cush elements.
With the 52x20x15mm bearing in the hub, the drive flange is fit. In this shot, I've already drilled and counterbored for the M8 truss-head bolts that will hold the flange to the hub. The larger holes are for the six 1" polyurethane cush elements.
With the thirteen precision bores done (6 bolts, 6 cush elements, and 1 hubcentric bore), I can get onto the creative bit
For fun, style, and some weight reduction. There's still enough meat left for plenty of strength, but I think any more drilling and this piece will get impossible to clean! One more shot, bolted onto the hub:
Today I also took the other remaining 6"x6"x1" billet down to a faced 5" disc. That will will become the sprocket carrier, and will remain for another post!
osteoderm
out of the box
The polyurethane rod was ordered as a nominal 1.00"OD, but measured out at 1.032". The bores in the drive flange are 25mm (~0.984"), so the elements are a press fit.
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see that the inboard end of the bores is partially blocked by the hub body itself. Outboard, the cush elements will be captured by the sprocket carrier, which will ride ~1mm away.
