Good Heart, Bad Intentions: another build thread

I like the shape of that tank osteoderm. What is this icing your talking about?

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...for the pinholes, 120-grit sanding scratches, etc. This is a two-part, just a little smoother and harder-drying than the usual one-part finishing putty.
 
Okay, I'm sure that there's probably a few of you who have been looking forward to this post even more than I have... To start, here's the whole works, all laid out:

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The outside face of the sprocket carrier. Might have to detail this face a bit more... looks kinda boring to me. :laugh:

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The back side of the sprocket carrier. The drop center holds the bearing.

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The sprocket carrier with the sprocket, bolts, and bearing in place. I'd like to drill these bolt heads for safety wire. The smaller holes in the carrier line up with the holes in the Rebel Gears sprocket. The inner countersunk holes line up with the bolts that hold the drive adapter to the hub (in case I ever need to unbolt the whole works as a single piece).

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The backside of the assembled carrier.

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The two halves, ready to meet: Hub, bearing, and cush drive adapter bolted together, next to the assembled sprocket carrier.

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Should be sorta self-explanatory... the sprocket bolts serve double-duty as the drive pins that engage the polyurethane cush elements.

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Aaaand we're together.

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Next, I have to make up all the spacers/compression tubes: the usual one inside the hub between the two wheel bearings, new outer spacers to center the wheel, and one extra one, between the drive-side wheel bearing and the bearing in the sprocket carrier.... Another day at the lathe ought to do it... :doh:
 
Nice. but hey! do you think the bolt threads will chew up the drive cushions? is it possible to thread just the head end of a bolt and leave the rest of it smooth at the same diameter as the outside of the threads?
 
Nice. but hey! do you think the bolt threads will chew up the drive cushions? is it possible to thread just the head end of a bolt and leave the rest of it smooth at the same diameter as the outside of the threads?

You raise an excellent point, one that I was thinking about from the start. If you look closely, you can see that the portion of the threading that protrudes into the cush element has been turned down on the lathe for just this reason.

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sorry about the blurry focus

The final diameter of the de-threaded portion of each bolt is just a tiny bit larger than the minor diameter of the original threads, but smooth to the touch and a very nice fit into the polyurethane.

I thought of proceeding as you're suggesting, except that A) it's another fussy bit of machining, and the bolts are already very close to ideal, B) a non-threaded portion with a diameter equal to the major diameter of the male thread will not fit through the female-threaded hole.

From the start, I wanted to make sure that the major wear items were fairly standard and easy to remake/replace. In this case, I'm using a sprocket with a stock XS650 bolt pattern, off-the-shelf polyurethane tubing, and standard Grade 10.9 steel bolts (with minimal machining). I'm sure I haven't thought of everything, but I've been trying! :shrug:
 
You raise an excellent point, one that I was thinking about from the start. If you look closely, you can see that the portion of the threading that protrudes into the cush element has been turned down on the lathe for just this reason.
....

The final diameter of the de-threaded portion of each bolt is just a tiny bit larger than the minor diameter of the original threads, but smooth to the touch and a very nice fit into the polyurethane.

I thought of proceeding as you're suggesting, except that A) it's another fussy bit of machining, and the bolts are already very close to ideal, B) a non-threaded portion with a diameter equal to the major diameter of the male thread will not fit through the female-threaded hole.

From the start, I wanted to make sure that the major wear items were fairly standard and easy to remake/replace. In this case, I'm using a sprocket with a stock XS650 bolt pattern, off-the-shelf polyurethane tubing, and standard Grade 10.9 steel bolts (with minimal machining). I'm sure I haven't thought of everything, but I've been trying! :shrug:

i remember this pic now. in the above assembly you can't see the threads have been turned.

i didn't think of a smooth shaft not fitting through the threaded hole. :banghead: something i would have done cuz i'm smart like that and then discovered after the fact.
 
I really like the way that looks! I think the lines flow much better than the other one you started with, great work man!
 
Yikes... Got myself carried away and put down a couple coats of clear pearl over the Antique White...

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Not perfect, not by a long ways, but better than good enough... time to stop painting and move on to the new seat!
 
Tank mounted, now working on the new seat... Same basic construction as the last one, but I plan on much-improved upholstery!

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