1974jh5
Curmudgeon.
By chance is anybody out there running an add on rev limiter, such as the ones made by Dyna?
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have a mild possible serious problems with my jugs.
- Thread starter Zombis
- Start date
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- Tags
- engine maintenance
Zombis
XS650 Enthusiast
thank you all for your information. I just got the valve guide seals and the piston clips and am ready to get to business. the information about the old headgasket was awesome its too bad it got thrown out while i was cleaning the bench off for a beer pong tournament the other day. o well.
Ill post again when I get this 650 back together and again thank you for all the advise.
Ill post again when I get this 650 back together and again thank you for all the advise.
Zombis
XS650 Enthusiast
So I just installed the new valve guide. Now the new valve from yamaha wont slide into the new valve guide from mikes xs. it will only go like maybe 2 cm into the valve guide.
when installed it i used the guide tool and a hammer. wishing now that i used a press....
do you guys think a machine shop can recut the valve guide so it can accept the valve or should i just try another guide?
the old guide slides over the new valve so my thought is that somehow the guide is mis shaped.
I saw something on the forum about using a dremel to remove help with the mushrooming of the valve guide if that occurs, although my thought is if was to mushroom wouldnt that happen at the valve seal side and not the side with the valve face?
Has anyone else had this same issue with guides from mikes or do i just have super piss poor luck?
when installed it i used the guide tool and a hammer. wishing now that i used a press....
do you guys think a machine shop can recut the valve guide so it can accept the valve or should i just try another guide?
the old guide slides over the new valve so my thought is that somehow the guide is mis shaped.
I saw something on the forum about using a dremel to remove help with the mushrooming of the valve guide if that occurs, although my thought is if was to mushroom wouldnt that happen at the valve seal side and not the side with the valve face?
Has anyone else had this same issue with guides from mikes or do i just have super piss poor luck?
Cafe-Dave
XS650B
Take head to an engine builder / machine shop. Have them measure the valvestem with a micrometer, and ream appropriately. I am unsure how much clearance you need, but .05mm over the diameter "seems" like it'd be about right.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=28594&postcount=39
From This post http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=61360&postcount=22 I'd guess that the valve guides are NOM 8mm (0.31496"). 8mm Ream is $20.59 from Enco http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=334-5072&PMPXNO=2614267. McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com has P/N 8851A23 for $22.76.
I must state, I am guessing on the 8mm ream value. Just an assumption.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=28594&postcount=39
From This post http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=61360&postcount=22 I'd guess that the valve guides are NOM 8mm (0.31496"). 8mm Ream is $20.59 from Enco http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=334-5072&PMPXNO=2614267. McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com has P/N 8851A23 for $22.76.
I must state, I am guessing on the 8mm ream value. Just an assumption.
Zombis
XS650 Enthusiast
got the head back from the machine shop. The guy was awesome he did a complete valve job for me, reamed the new valve guide to the appropriate size and pressure tested the head for only $80 on top of that i can see his shop from the hill in my backyard. good neighbors are freaking awesome.
So eagerly i put everything back together and installed a new cam chain and front guide. cylinders were showing 125 psi. Got the whole beast back together last night and after a bit of praying turned on the fuel and kicked it over. started with the first kick.
After dancing around for about 10 minutes. I thought to myself you should probrolly check the timing with a light to check the advance.
Sure as shit installed the cam off one tooth. Engine runs too far advanced under throttle. So now i have to pull the engine again so i can move the cam one tooth.
Just my luck. when i bought the bike it ran retarded because the cam was off a tooth. And now its running too advanced.
Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the valve cover with the engine still in the frame or does that SOB have to come out? Also is there a better way to install these cams to know for sure that they are on the right tooth? it seems like everytime i have to take the valve cover off i miss the sweet spot and either install it a tooth off <--or-->
I know there are index marks on the cam but without it in the frame my engine just sits on a table slumped over a bit and when i think it is lined up it really isn't.
im thinking i need to make a engine stand for this guy and use a degree wheel this time.
So eagerly i put everything back together and installed a new cam chain and front guide. cylinders were showing 125 psi. Got the whole beast back together last night and after a bit of praying turned on the fuel and kicked it over. started with the first kick.
After dancing around for about 10 minutes. I thought to myself you should probrolly check the timing with a light to check the advance.
Sure as shit installed the cam off one tooth. Engine runs too far advanced under throttle. So now i have to pull the engine again so i can move the cam one tooth.
Just my luck. when i bought the bike it ran retarded because the cam was off a tooth. And now its running too advanced.
Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the valve cover with the engine still in the frame or does that SOB have to come out? Also is there a better way to install these cams to know for sure that they are on the right tooth? it seems like everytime i have to take the valve cover off i miss the sweet spot and either install it a tooth off <--or-->
I know there are index marks on the cam but without it in the frame my engine just sits on a table slumped over a bit and when i think it is lined up it really isn't.
im thinking i need to make a engine stand for this guy and use a degree wheel this time.
Here's a link that can help you:
http://www.650motorcycles.com/CamTiming.html
You should put the engine crank on TDC and look at the large pin (pin hole) on the right end of the camshaft. It should be alined at 12:00 position if you assembled the engine correctly.
When I re-built my top end, there was no need for a degree wheel or for an engine stand. I simply sat my engine on a sturdy table. The alinement of the camshaft with the crankshaft is actually quite simple. There is an idex mark on the left side of the camshaft and a punch mark on the right side of the camshaft gear.
http://www.650motorcycles.com/CamTiming.html
You should put the engine crank on TDC and look at the large pin (pin hole) on the right end of the camshaft. It should be alined at 12:00 position if you assembled the engine correctly.
When I re-built my top end, there was no need for a degree wheel or for an engine stand. I simply sat my engine on a sturdy table. The alinement of the camshaft with the crankshaft is actually quite simple. There is an idex mark on the left side of the camshaft and a punch mark on the right side of the camshaft gear.
cros36
thread killer
you need to take the engine out of the frame. at least i do.
Zombis
XS650 Enthusiast
ok well ill try again then. just need someone else to help me lug this engine out of the frame one more time... roommate gets off work at 4. come on 4:00pm...
When you put the cam in there is a notch on the left side of the sprocket on the boss. This should point straight up. To find straight up draw an imaganary line from the center of the crank up through the center of the cam. If you can't imagine this line get a yard stick. Line it up center of crank and center of cam.
At the same time there is a dot on the right side of the sprocket out by the teeth. This dot should line up level with the sealing surface of the head where the rocker box sets.
The notch and dot should line up with the chain on and the chain tensioner set. If they don't try again.
Leo
At the same time there is a dot on the right side of the sprocket out by the teeth. This dot should line up level with the sealing surface of the head where the rocker box sets.
The notch and dot should line up with the chain on and the chain tensioner set. If they don't try again.
Leo
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