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head acorn nuts coming loose?.
- Thread starter malloym
- Start date
That "regard" is the whim of mere mortals. Besides, what's a ft-lb or two among friends?
Believing you have the only special tank Yamaha made without emblem brackets qualifies you to make your informative statements.
Listen to anything you say, just don't have to believe any of it, and if others do they will soon learn.
Listen to anything you say, just don't have to believe any of it, and if others do they will soon learn.
Anyway back on topic, the repair manuals, if you have one and take the time to read it, specifies "Use 30w oil to lubricate all head cover bolts and stud prior to torqueing them down. This must be done to prevent shearing them during reassembly." This is on page 51 of the Clymer book.
In my Factory 70-74 book it says, "If the stud threads are not lubricated prior to cylinder head cover assembly, it is possible to shear a stud when tightening cover nuts. Therefore apply a liberal coating of 30w oil to all threads first, then torque the head cover down." Page 18 in that book.
It says the same thing in the 74-76 book, page 51. The 78 book doesn't specify, it's more of a supplement to the earlier books.
When I reassemble an engine I torque it down, wait over night, re-torque. I then put the engine in the bike. Do all the needed things to run the engine. Let it set over night, re-torque, This let all the gaskets compress.
I then start the engine, Check for leaks check timing and let it warm up. Shut it down.
Let it set over night, re-torque, Fire it up and ride it, do the hard acceleration coast down engine break in procedure.
Take it home, Drain oil, check filters for debris. Let it set over night, re-torque.
When I say re-torque I mean just putting the torque wrench on and turning till it clicks. This is not the same as re-torqueing on an older engine where I remove each nut/bolt at a time to clean threads and a coat of oil then torque down. This way I can tell if and when the torque holds. At some point you won't turn the wrench before it clicks. At this point the torque is holding.
Once you get to this point you can stop the re-torque. On some it may take just once or twice to get the hold. Others may take more. Better to do it an extra time or two. Won't hurt and is good insurance.
Now you can just check the torque at yearly intervals. I do it as part of the spring wake up procedure.
Leo
In my Factory 70-74 book it says, "If the stud threads are not lubricated prior to cylinder head cover assembly, it is possible to shear a stud when tightening cover nuts. Therefore apply a liberal coating of 30w oil to all threads first, then torque the head cover down." Page 18 in that book.
It says the same thing in the 74-76 book, page 51. The 78 book doesn't specify, it's more of a supplement to the earlier books.
When I reassemble an engine I torque it down, wait over night, re-torque. I then put the engine in the bike. Do all the needed things to run the engine. Let it set over night, re-torque, This let all the gaskets compress.
I then start the engine, Check for leaks check timing and let it warm up. Shut it down.
Let it set over night, re-torque, Fire it up and ride it, do the hard acceleration coast down engine break in procedure.
Take it home, Drain oil, check filters for debris. Let it set over night, re-torque.
When I say re-torque I mean just putting the torque wrench on and turning till it clicks. This is not the same as re-torqueing on an older engine where I remove each nut/bolt at a time to clean threads and a coat of oil then torque down. This way I can tell if and when the torque holds. At some point you won't turn the wrench before it clicks. At this point the torque is holding.
Once you get to this point you can stop the re-torque. On some it may take just once or twice to get the hold. Others may take more. Better to do it an extra time or two. Won't hurt and is good insurance.
Now you can just check the torque at yearly intervals. I do it as part of the spring wake up procedure.
Leo
Last edited:
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
Sounds like a good solid procedure to me. Hadn't read into the specifics on lubing the threads, but then again, have not pulled my head yet either.
You're a lost soul who doesn't believe in Yamaha. Repent!
