Head gaskets

53xs650

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So It looks like my bike is leaking oil from cam chain channel into left cylinder. I see that sealer on gasket helps to stop this. My question is any one used the MLS head gaskets? They seem to have a nice rib around cam chain opening which seems like it would help. And does having head and cylinder decked take care of problem? Decking would probaly change cam timing. I want to do what ever I can to try to do this once. This bike is really starting to be a money pit!!!
 
Any old bike is a money pit. Decking the head and or the cylinder won't help prevent leaks, proper maintenance will. After assembly re-torque the head several times after heat cycles then yearly will prevent head gasket leaks. Replacing the rubber washers under the 4 out side head nuts with brass help the nuts hold torque.
If you read the engine build threads on here you will find the recommended way to apply gasket sealer to the head gasket to help stop leaks.
Most of us have good luck with regular gaskets, even on modified engines.
Leo
 
Thanks for the feedback Leo, I got the motor out and apart today, The head gasket was leaking into cylinder. The gasket had no sealer on it and has been leaking for awhile. The front chain guide was bad so it needed to come apart anyway. I am hoping this is last motor is out of frame for awhile. Thanks
 
I usually run a large file across the head you will be surprise of the imperfections..the last motor I got in a hurry and did not do this and had leaks under the studs by the spark plugs.. I removed head and ran the file until they were smooth and the file did not catch. Go slow don't dig.Put it back together and heat cycled the usually 3 times and good to go no leaks.
I did not do this to the cylinder as it was decked after I bored it.
NOTE!!make sure it is a fine file and can reach across the width of the head to help keep It flat on 2 sides at a time. Be careful.. Gary
 
I usually run a large file across the head you will be surprise of the imperfections..the last motor I got in a hurry and did not do this and had leaks under the studs by the spark plugs.. I removed head and ran the file until they were smooth and the file did not catch. Go slow don't dig.Put it back together and heat cycled the usually 3 times and good to go no leaks.
I did not do this to the cylinder as it was decked after I bored it.
NOTE!!make sure it is a fine file and can reach across the width of the head to help keep It flat on 2 sides at a time. Be careful.. Gary

Great advice.... to those with the patience and ability, but Primitive Pete is going to fluk up some heads "wacking off high spots"! Working a surface flat with files is an art! We are talking about big (16") high quality mill files not harbor fright rasps, or some little 8" file. Hint to newbies; practice on a sump plate. They always have high spots around the bolt holes. It will give you an idea of the proper technique at much lower risk than destroying a head. This is a patience and very subtle tool control thing, not everyone is suited to doing it. think slow work and check, for an hour, not a 5 minute and done project. you keep changing the direction you are filing, work in all different angles and use extreme caution to keep the file flat with even pressure front to back and side to side.

A good basic file primer. https://www.kmstools.com/blog/hand-file-identification/

Hint if you aren't going to take hte time to read that don't try filing.
 
I usually run a large file across the head you will be surprise of the imperfections..the last motor I got in a hurry and did not do this and had leaks under the studs by the spark plugs.. I removed head and ran the file until they were smooth and the file did not catch. Go slow don't dig.Put it back together and heat cycled the usually 3 times and good to go no leaks.
I did not do this to the cylinder as it was decked after I bored it.
NOTE!!make sure it is a fine file and can reach across the width of the head to help keep It flat on 2 sides at a time. Be careful.. Gary

Great advice.... to those with the patience and ability, but Primitive Pete is going to fluk up some heads "wacking off high spots"! Working a surface flat with files is an art! We are talking about big (16") high quality mill files not harbor fright rasps, or some little 8" file. Hint to newbies; practice on a sump plate. They always have high spots around the bolt holes. It will give you an idea of the proper technique at much lower risk than destroying a head. This is a patience and very subtle tool control thing, not everyone is suited to doing it. think slow work and check, for an hour, not a 5 minute and done project. you keep changing the direction you are filing, work in all different angles and use extreme caution to keep the file flat with even pressure front to back and side to side.

A good basic file primer. https://www.kmstools.com/blog/hand-file-identification/

Hint if you aren't going to take hte time to read that don't try filing.
 
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Im having the same problem took two pics to share how it would look like having a leaking head gasket. Right side is ok left its leaking and giving me a hard time with a foulded spark plug with carbon and oil
 
It's more time consuming, but here's another way to level the head that's more cave man resistant. Get a big piece of salvage plate glass, tape a couple of full sheets of 320 or similar sandpaper to it tightly side by side, and work the head on the paper in a figure 8 pattern, with no more pressure than the weight of the head. Continue until the whole surface shows the same fine scratches.If you're using a file, check to see if that "flat file" is actually flat. Brand names are no guarantee; you may have to buy three to get one good 'un these days.

Re. head gaskets, avoid Athena; they're thicker than OE by ~.017". Vesrah gaskets are made in Japan to OE spec.
 
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