Jeeter
XS650 Addict
I've done some research here amongst the forum as well as actually ventured beyond this backyard out to the big scary internet on the LED lighting systems that are so popular these days. I'm well aware of how efficient the lowly LED is due to my line of work (I use them in nearly every device I build for both illumination and as components within audio circuits). So I'm ~kinda~ familiar with LEDs and I think that they are actually the future of the modern/current civilization (right up there with L-Ion batts). Key word there being "efficiency".
So I've sniffed around here for info regarding the use of LEDs as headlights. Lots of dope on the subject, but something that seems to be missing is the importance of a good (more like as good as you can afford to own) parabolic reflector as well as good of a lens as you can afford. These two things alone may actually improve your lighting more than going to LEDs (or HID, Halogen, everwhat) depending on what you're upgrading from. If your current reflector and lens are total poo, then spending money on LEDs (et al) will be a 100% pointless effort.
One of the little personal preference tricks I've employed on some of my streetbikes is to use an H4 bulb. Not just any H4 though, I used 55/100 watt H4s made by Hella. The low beam was a safe/sane/legal 55 watts. High beam was a vey illegal 100 watts. I would also change the reflector and lens to Hella units as well (Sportster light buckets use what used to be "standard" sealed beam sizes, so any lighting setups designed for 6 inch buckets would fit inside the stock headlight cans).
This is when I learned about lens types. What I did not know is that there are actually large differences between car lenses and bike lenses. Each lens is clearly marked with a European standardization code (I think one of the codes was something like "E4" which I think was a bike lens ... I may be wrong there, it's been many years since I messed with this stuff. I fully intend on sharpening my product knowledge up on this stuff again before I spend any money on a lighting system).
Anyhow, I did a lot of empirical testing with various combinations of lightbulb types and power, lens types, and reflector types over the course of a number of years. Where I live there are desert highways that are as black as the blackest pitch-tar you've ever seen, especially when there's no moon. Three hours may pass before you see another set of headlights from either direction out there sometimes. So I have the perfect testing facility for many night time tests and activities. I tested a number of lens types, and none of the auto-type lenses worked very well. They are very specific for use on either the right or left side of the vehicle. The same with reflectors. I ended up actually preferring the KC Daylighter bucket used with the Hella reflector and the Hella 55/100 H4.
But what was such a surprise was how much the change of reflector and or lens had an affect on the quality and usefulness of the light, no matter which bulb (or how powerful the bulb) that I used. Changing lenses had a far greater impact on the length and spread of the light on dark highways than changing bulb types did, there's no doubt about that. And the quality of the reflector had a MAJOR impact on how "good" the light was.
I also raced SCORED (off road/desert racing) in Class 3 (103.5 inch 4WDs) and Class 4 (104 inch wheelbase 4wds) in races such as the Mint 400, Barstow to Vegas, as well as the Baja 500 and Baja 1000. I built my own trucks (of course with much help from friends and the local fender lizards) and the lighting systems were highly important (no kidding, right?). I mean romping across open desert at over 75mph AT NIGHT is a thrilling experience. But them lights gots-ta be RIGHT. So we did a lot of experimenting with them in those days as well. Same results. Reflectors, lenses, more important than bulbs.
OK, now listen, I have been out of this stuff for literally decades. All of it, motorcycles, off-road racing, whatever. So I am aware that MUCH has changed since 1994. That said, what I've talked about here is basically a collection of my old dust-covered recollections. If there are new and better ideas and ways of doing things, PLEASE let me know. I'm not trying to say I am the Mighty Mighty Jeeter who knows all, sees all, and has done all. I'm trying to explain what I already know so that I can be updated or educated.
Anyhow, I've just noticed a lack of discussion regarding the importance of a good parabolic reflector (no scratches or defects on it, no rust or other poo on it, no defects in the plating of it) and a good lens as well as the correct lens, and that all of the importance should not be placed on only the bulb.
BUYERS BEWARE!
A quick note on lenses: It would do many of us well to learn-up on the lens types. I've seen any number of Cibie lights marketed as "motorcycle headlights" on places such as eBay. In reality these lights are actually CAR lights that someone has either stuffed in some motorcycle headlight bucket or is selling the reflector/bulb assembly as a bike light, when in fact it's a car light. The lenses are TOTALLY different between car lights and bike lights. Just so you know.
Thanks for your time.
So I've sniffed around here for info regarding the use of LEDs as headlights. Lots of dope on the subject, but something that seems to be missing is the importance of a good (more like as good as you can afford to own) parabolic reflector as well as good of a lens as you can afford. These two things alone may actually improve your lighting more than going to LEDs (or HID, Halogen, everwhat) depending on what you're upgrading from. If your current reflector and lens are total poo, then spending money on LEDs (et al) will be a 100% pointless effort.
One of the little personal preference tricks I've employed on some of my streetbikes is to use an H4 bulb. Not just any H4 though, I used 55/100 watt H4s made by Hella. The low beam was a safe/sane/legal 55 watts. High beam was a vey illegal 100 watts. I would also change the reflector and lens to Hella units as well (Sportster light buckets use what used to be "standard" sealed beam sizes, so any lighting setups designed for 6 inch buckets would fit inside the stock headlight cans).
This is when I learned about lens types. What I did not know is that there are actually large differences between car lenses and bike lenses. Each lens is clearly marked with a European standardization code (I think one of the codes was something like "E4" which I think was a bike lens ... I may be wrong there, it's been many years since I messed with this stuff. I fully intend on sharpening my product knowledge up on this stuff again before I spend any money on a lighting system).
Anyhow, I did a lot of empirical testing with various combinations of lightbulb types and power, lens types, and reflector types over the course of a number of years. Where I live there are desert highways that are as black as the blackest pitch-tar you've ever seen, especially when there's no moon. Three hours may pass before you see another set of headlights from either direction out there sometimes. So I have the perfect testing facility for many night time tests and activities. I tested a number of lens types, and none of the auto-type lenses worked very well. They are very specific for use on either the right or left side of the vehicle. The same with reflectors. I ended up actually preferring the KC Daylighter bucket used with the Hella reflector and the Hella 55/100 H4.
But what was such a surprise was how much the change of reflector and or lens had an affect on the quality and usefulness of the light, no matter which bulb (or how powerful the bulb) that I used. Changing lenses had a far greater impact on the length and spread of the light on dark highways than changing bulb types did, there's no doubt about that. And the quality of the reflector had a MAJOR impact on how "good" the light was.
I also raced SCORED (off road/desert racing) in Class 3 (103.5 inch 4WDs) and Class 4 (104 inch wheelbase 4wds) in races such as the Mint 400, Barstow to Vegas, as well as the Baja 500 and Baja 1000. I built my own trucks (of course with much help from friends and the local fender lizards) and the lighting systems were highly important (no kidding, right?). I mean romping across open desert at over 75mph AT NIGHT is a thrilling experience. But them lights gots-ta be RIGHT. So we did a lot of experimenting with them in those days as well. Same results. Reflectors, lenses, more important than bulbs.
OK, now listen, I have been out of this stuff for literally decades. All of it, motorcycles, off-road racing, whatever. So I am aware that MUCH has changed since 1994. That said, what I've talked about here is basically a collection of my old dust-covered recollections. If there are new and better ideas and ways of doing things, PLEASE let me know. I'm not trying to say I am the Mighty Mighty Jeeter who knows all, sees all, and has done all. I'm trying to explain what I already know so that I can be updated or educated.
Anyhow, I've just noticed a lack of discussion regarding the importance of a good parabolic reflector (no scratches or defects on it, no rust or other poo on it, no defects in the plating of it) and a good lens as well as the correct lens, and that all of the importance should not be placed on only the bulb.
BUYERS BEWARE!
A quick note on lenses: It would do many of us well to learn-up on the lens types. I've seen any number of Cibie lights marketed as "motorcycle headlights" on places such as eBay. In reality these lights are actually CAR lights that someone has either stuffed in some motorcycle headlight bucket or is selling the reflector/bulb assembly as a bike light, when in fact it's a car light. The lenses are TOTALLY different between car lights and bike lights. Just so you know.
Thanks for your time.
and 
