Heavy clutch

Yes, you must keep the clutch cable well lubed, and you need to oil a brand new cable because most come almost dry. I use motor oil. That spray cable lube is too light and only lasts a few days. Also, you want to route the cable with no sharp bends or "kinks", just gentle arcs. You can also partially straighten the elbow down on the bottom on the new cable .....

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Just make sure you hang the bottom open end of the elbow outside of the vice jaws as shown above or you'll "crimp" it closed, lol.
 
Replace clutch cable if old; lube cable; check cable routing; re/re clutch actuator in side case cover - clean and grease; lube clutch lever adjust and you should be good to go. If it has aftermarket stiff springs it will have a harder pull.
Many thanks for that, it’s what I will be be doing, the bike into the uk in 2016 , its totally standard but it’s had both side cases off as I can see new gaskets
Yes, you must keep the clutch cable well lubed, and you need to oil a brand new cable because most come almost dry. I use motor oil. That spray cable lube is too light and only lasts a few days. Also, you want to route the cable with no sharp bends or "kinks", just gentle arcs. You can also partially straighten the elbow down on the bottom on the new cable .....

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Just make sure you hang the bottom open end of the elbow outside of the vice jaws as shown above or you'll "crimp" it closed, lol.
thanks for advice/tip 5twins
 
I don’t know if Motion Pro clutch cables are something you can buy in England, but a lot of us here , swear by them. They really are a superior clutch cable that will make your clutch pull easier. And as @bosco659 mentioned the cable routing makes a big difference. It can get messed up over the years, you want smooth arcs on that cable. Here are some cable routing diagrams you might find useful.
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Routing is EVERYTHING with the XS650 clutch cable though the earlier lube comments are also critical. Remove your fuel tank. Install your new and freshly lubed or old cleaned and freshly lubed cable. Lay it in several positions around the frame of your motorcycle. Most of us are certain that when you lay the cable on the left side of the frame rails you will get the best action. Depending on what carbs and air cleaners, crossing the clutch cable from the right side over to the left side can happen over, through or under the frame main tube. I cannot emphasize enough here, you will run that cable 3, 4, 5 times or more before you find what works. I do not have stock bikes and I do not care that a clutch cable hangs out near the key switch. If you insist on stock routing you may be disapointed, if you embrace workable, you will find a very nice clutch lever action. That action will be a little heavier than a modern bike but nut muscleman stiff.
 
I don’t know if Motion Pro clutch cables are something you can buy in England, but a lot of us here , swear by them. They really are a superior clutch cable that will make your clutch pull easier. And as @bosco659 mentioned the cable routing makes a big difference. It can get messed up over the years, you want smooth arcs on that cable. Here are some cable routing diagrams you might find useful.
View attachment 260942View attachment 260943
Much appreciated thank you
 
Routing is EVERYTHING with the XS650 clutch cable though the earlier lube comments are also critical. Remove your fuel tank. Install your new and freshly lubed or old cleaned and freshly lubed cable. Lay it in several positions around the frame of your motorcycle. Most of us are certain that when you lay the cable on the left side of the frame rails you will get the best action. Depending on what carbs and air cleaners, crossing the clutch cable from the right side over to the left side can happen over, through or under the frame main tube. I cannot emphasize enough here, you will run that cable 3, 4, 5 times or more before you find what works. I do not have stock bikes and I do not care that a clutch cable hangs out near the key switch. If you insist on stock routing you may be disapointed, if you embrace workable, you will find a very nice clutch lever action. That action will be a little heavier than a modern bike but nut muscleman stiff.
I’m hoping to get round to looking at it this weekend so here’s hoping
 
Also check the outer cable for dents and damage and the inner cable for fraying and kinks. I route my clutch cable down the right side and attach it to the upper engine mounts via two P clamps. That gives the widest arc, the tighter the arc, the heavier the pull. The cable then drops down between the carbs to the left side cover. I've also lengthened the clutch actuating lever attached to the actuating screw. Even. My fused and arthritic fingers find it fairly light now, where previously it was very heavy.
 
Also check the outer cable for dents and damage and the inner cable for fraying and kinks. I route my clutch cable down the right side and attach it to the upper engine mounts via two P clamps. That gives the widest arc, the tighter the arc, the heavier the pull. The cable then drops down between the carbs to the left side cover. I've also lengthened the clutch actuating lever attached to the actuating screw. Even. My fused and arthritic fingers find it fairly light now, where previously it was very heavy.
👍👍
 
Some folks here route the cable between the carbs, others route it to the left of the carb bank. The trick is to set your tank aside and find the route that works best for you. Remember to adjust the push rod actuator.
 
With cable routed as others have described and correct adjustment, these clutches work very well. I had awful problems - the clutch had been assembled wrong, clutch basket and pressure plate were not correctly aligned. But with that corrected and adjusted - tighten the adjuster until it touches the push rod and back off just a smidgeon - it's good.
 
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