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Help! I think I fried my charging system and ignition
- Thread starter globalmaa
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
I can tell you what you need to do, and you can figure out how to do it with the hardware you have.
This is for the later reg/rect version. First, the brushes should go through the plate and touch the copper rings on the rotor. They and their wires should not touch anything else metal, for example that short white wire shouldn't be there. With some brush holders you need nylon screws to do this. The black wire from the brushes should go to brown on the reg/rect. The other wire from the brushes should go to green on the reg/rect. This is shown on the schematic xsleo posted. You need to figure out how to read basic schematics. You won't hate wiring anymore.
This is for the later reg/rect version. First, the brushes should go through the plate and touch the copper rings on the rotor. They and their wires should not touch anything else metal, for example that short white wire shouldn't be there. With some brush holders you need nylon screws to do this. The black wire from the brushes should go to brown on the reg/rect. The other wire from the brushes should go to green on the reg/rect. This is shown on the schematic xsleo posted. You need to figure out how to read basic schematics. You won't hate wiring anymore.
that i have done. since the po had drilled through the brush holder to attach the white wire i need to buy a new set of brushes and holders from Mikes. problem solved. the black is already connected to the brown and the green to the green. so a simple fix isundo the 3 screws uninstall the brush, holder and white wire . add the new brushes and holder unground using the 3 nylon screws and viola done. sound right?
if i cut the white wire there is still bare wire from the brushes to the holder ( inside spring ) and cause he drilled through the holder as well.what would you recommend as to connect the brushes with the holder. mikes sells brand new for 15 bucks . thanks again for all your help
You could leave the little white wire on the brush and just put it under the proper screw head. That might be necessary in fact since he drilled it up. It won't hurt anything at least. Just follow what I wrote two posts up, and the schematic.
Howdy boys. With your brush removed I can see whats happened.
The white wire was added by someone who didn't understand what should have been done.
To fix what you have the white wire should be soldered to the metal strip so the spring is is under just a bit of tension. Then the extra cut off. The brush should get it's electrical connection through the metal strip.
Lets start at the brown wire in the harness. Power flows on the brown wire, at the 6 wire plug the brown wire hooks to the black wire. The black wire hooks under one of the nylon screw. This is how the power flows to the metal strip.
The metal strip goes over under the second nylon screw, then turns and goes up over the brush holder. Here is where the brush wire is soldered to the metal strip.
The metal srtip goes on down to under the third nylon screw.
Power flows along the metal strip into the wire to the brush. Power flows thru the brush into the rotor.
The way your wire is now, to get power to the brush would be to hook the end under one of the three nylon screws hooking it to the metal strip.
Hooking it to one of the guard screws will ground it out.
I just got a pic of the brushes. If you look at the pic you can see how the wire is supposed to hook to the brush.
You can either fix what you have or get new brushes. New will probably be easier.
The white wire was added by someone who didn't understand what should have been done.
To fix what you have the white wire should be soldered to the metal strip so the spring is is under just a bit of tension. Then the extra cut off. The brush should get it's electrical connection through the metal strip.
Lets start at the brown wire in the harness. Power flows on the brown wire, at the 6 wire plug the brown wire hooks to the black wire. The black wire hooks under one of the nylon screw. This is how the power flows to the metal strip.
The metal strip goes over under the second nylon screw, then turns and goes up over the brush holder. Here is where the brush wire is soldered to the metal strip.
The metal srtip goes on down to under the third nylon screw.
Power flows along the metal strip into the wire to the brush. Power flows thru the brush into the rotor.
The way your wire is now, to get power to the brush would be to hook the end under one of the three nylon screws hooking it to the metal strip.
Hooking it to one of the guard screws will ground it out.
I just got a pic of the brushes. If you look at the pic you can see how the wire is supposed to hook to the brush.
You can either fix what you have or get new brushes. New will probably be easier.
Attachments
I don't think you hurt the reg/rec. If you did, I don't think the Honda one will work. Not with out a lot of rewiring.
The Honda one I think is for a permanet magnet alternator.
Let me check.
The Honda one I think is for a permanet magnet alternator.
Let me check.
I just looked at a parts fiche.
It shows the 79 CB750K did use a feild excited alternator. That is the type used on the XS650. So the reg/rec from the cb750 should work. Just how the colors hook up might take some checking on.
Lets see if what you have works before you start swapping stuff.
Hook the white wire under one of the nylon screws. be sure it doesn't touch the guard.
Now start the bike and check the battery voltage at idle and at 3000 rpms.
Tell us what the voltages are.
It shows the 79 CB750K did use a feild excited alternator. That is the type used on the XS650. So the reg/rec from the cb750 should work. Just how the colors hook up might take some checking on.
Lets see if what you have works before you start swapping stuff.
Hook the white wire under one of the nylon screws. be sure it doesn't touch the guard.
Now start the bike and check the battery voltage at idle and at 3000 rpms.
Tell us what the voltages are.
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