Help (nut removal) !!

Milk_Jesus

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I cannot get the nut holding the alternator on to come off (I'm trying to do a pma swap). I have vice grips and pliers at the moment, and that fucker won't come off. Any tips?
 
I cannot get the nut holding the alternator on to come off (I'm trying to do a pma swap). I have vice grips and pliers at the moment, and that fucker won't come off. Any tips?

Vise grips and pliers are not the right tools. Impact would be the best but second would be the correct socket and ratchet with a long handle and if more leverage is needed add a cheater bar to the end of the ratchet handle.
 
Giving a 17mm box wrench a couple whacks with a big rubber mallet has always worked for me. Vice grips and pliers, lol, that's a good one.
 
Didn't know you guys were such comedians!

Got the nut off, now can't get the alternator off. Keeps stripping my puller.

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If you are stripping it out, your using it wrong. If you just tighten the bolt down to get it off, that's wrong. This will as you found out just strip the threads.
You spin the outside all the way on. Screw the bolt down till good and snug. Then hit straight on the end of the bolt.
If it don't pop right off snug the bolt down and hit the bolt again.
The tension of the bolt pulls on the rotor. The strike of the hammer pushes the end of the crank. This pops the rotor off.
Soaking it penetrating liquid for a day or two helps.
Using a three jaw puller, if not used right will pull just the inside part of the rotor off. This pretty much ruins them. If you are pulling it to get it rewound, be very care full. If pulling to replace with a PMA, again be careful. If you can get it off in one piece, rewinders buy them. The early points rotors are not worth as much but the later TCI rotors are worth more.
Leo
 
If you are stripping it out, your using it wrong. If you just tighten the bolt down to get it off, that's wrong. This will as you found out just strip the threads.
You spin the outside all the way on. Screw the bolt down till good and snug. Then hit straight on the end of the bolt.
If it don't pop right off snug the bolt down and hit the bolt again.
The tension of the bolt pulls on the rotor. The strike of the hammer pushes the end of the crank. This pops the rotor off.
Soaking it penetrating liquid for a day or two helps.
Using a three jaw puller, if not used right will pull just the inside part of the rotor off. This pretty much ruins them. If you are pulling it to get it rewound, be very care full. If pulling to replace with a PMA, again be careful. If you can get it off in one piece, rewinders buy them. The early points rotors are not worth as much but the later TCI rotors are worth more.
Leo

Got it off, thanks man. I'm bad at tools. I don't know who thought it was a good idea for me to build a motorcycle.
 
Here's the project. It's close, finishing this charging system then on to the ignition and then it's just to wiring. For anyone that was curious haha



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Don't feel too bad about hurting the tool. I've know many "mechanics" who don't understand tools as a well as they should. Knew one that didn't believe in using a torque wrench.
Leo
 
Don't feel too bad about hurting the tool. I've know many "mechanics" who don't understand tools as a well as they should. Knew one that didn't believe in using a torque wrench.
Leo

I ended up getting everything removed just fine so I guess I didn't fuck up TOO bad haha
 
Hell yeah that looks good!
Are those 7/8" bars? If so, more info, please.
Is that a drag specialties seat?

Yeah 7/8, they're just some old triumph bars I got on eBay for like $15. I'm changing the grips to those marble grey and white ones lowbrow carries. The seat is lepera baron II. I searched for months for tees seats haha. Glad you dig it!
 
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